Removing Bolts on Windshield

[FadeToGray]

Hello all,

I’m trying to remove the lower windshield bolts on my LJ so that I can install some brackets for a set of spot lights I purchased.

Of course no luck in then coming out easily. Looks like from what I see on the forum here is that a lot of people use a soldering iron to heat things up and then remove the bolts.

Before I run to Home Depot and purchase a soldering iron I just wanted to be there this was still the best option.

Do I need a certain strength soldering iron or will the “standard” one Home Depot will sell fine?

Thanks!

 

[Backdraft]

If your buying something anyways I’d buy a small torch with the yellow bottle, they get hotter and you can use them on harder stuck bolts later. Heat and penetrating oils are my best friends in the Jeep world

 

[FadeToGray]

If your buying something anyways I’d buy a small torch with the yellow bottle, they get hotter and you can use them on harder stuck bolts later. Heat and penetrating oils are my best friends in the Jeep world

Won’t that damage the paint though? I’ve never used a torch like that before so sorry if that’s a dumb question

 

[MountaineerTom]

I think I seen someone mention they held a bit in the screw (I'm assuming with pliers or something) then use a torch mentioned above to heat the other end of the bit. The heat from the bit transfers to the screw, softening/melting the Loctite. That would keep the direct flame off the paint I would guess.

I've never used that method myself but seems legit to me.

 

[MountaineerTom]

Maybe try a little bit at a time, seeing if the screws will turn out. minimal time of heat around the paint.

 

[Backdraft]

You can damage the paint, but like said above just try to do it little by little. I’ve never tried the bit method, that’s certainly worth a shot!

 

[TJ Hunnicutt]

In order to apply enough heat to do any good, you're going to need something like a soldering gun (gun shaped_ rather than an iron (generally pencil shaped).

The 1/4 ounce of steel you are trying to heat may seem pretty small but the 2 tons of steel it's firmly snugged up to is not. The TJ's body will essentially act as a very large heat sink so you need to be able to generate enough heat to overcome that in a fairly local area. Although they do make soldering irons in high enough wattage, they would probably have a tip that would be too big to work here and would be very limited in their usefulness on a daily basis.

I would suggest something like this which would have the needed umph and could be much more easily used for other purposes.

 

[hunter1]

I just went through this. After twisting off a cheap harbor freight impact T40 bit I bought a much better quality bit at O’Reilly’s. Tapped it into the bolt until it was in there very tight and then put a breaker bar and carefully turned keeping everything square.Broke loose 4 bolts this way.
This was after trying a mini torch, cordless and corded impact wrenches, and impact screwdrivers. In my case the constant reseating of the bit from impacts was less effective than seating it tight one time and turning if that makes sense.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Pro

 

[TJ Hunnicutt]

Another option for heat would be a heat gun (hairdryer on steroids). Less pinpoint perhaps but way useful for a ton of things. And, yes, you can get it very hot and damage the paint but it's way, way more controllable than a torch so, with a little care, you could get it plenty hot without roasting it.

One other thing to be aware of when working with heat guns is that, somewhat like a torch, they don't just heat what you aiming them at, but things around and behind it as well...wherever that stream of hot air goes. You sometimes have to take care to shield sensitive things nearby (like the rubber windshield gasket). Oh, and stay away from the windshield itself, don't want to crack it with thermal shock.

 

[Chris]

I get the torx bit socket, hit it into the bolt head hard with a hammer, then break it loose with a breaker bar. It's a bitch, but it works every time.

 

[FadeToGray]

I ended up using a soldering gun and then an 18” breaker bar and it worked great.

I also bought a torch just in case I need it in the future, haha.

Thanks for the advice all!

 

[astjp2]

You guys do this the hard way, get a screw knocker...Ebay, amazon, US tool all have them. I used this thing on rusty roll bar bolts, put in a air chisel, it starts hammering, with the correct bit and 3/8" adapter, it will take out T55 screws out like a hot knife through butter. Just let it hammer and put a little pressure on the wrench, they just start turning out. Tim

 

[MountaineerTom]

You guys do this the hard way, get a screw knocker...Ebay, amazon, US tool all have them. I used this thing on rusty roll bar bolts, put in a air chisel, it starts hammering, with the correct bit and 3/8" adapter, it will take out T55 screws out like a hot knife through butter. Just let it hammer and put a little pressure on the wrench, they just start turning out. Tim

View attachment 88244

Interesting, I've never seen one of those.

I have this. LOL

 

[astjp2]

Hell we used them on the F-15 to get those stupid clutch type screws out...either they fell out inflight or they wouldnt come out...

 

[billiebob]

Won’t that damage the paint though? I’ve never used a torch like that before so sorry if that’s a dumb question

Nothing but good advice on the internet.

This,

 

[astjp2]