Most times. I disconnect the front, dial in the back. When that is vib free, reconnect the front and dial that in. If you get to a point that the vibe won't go away, make sure the tires are balanced as that mask or imitate a DL vibe. There are lots of folks on here that can go into far more detail than I can.
Removing rear driveshaft to test for vibes
- Thread starter DUB
- Start date
Yup. I tape the loose Ujoints so they don't go flying all over the road
Ok going off of what you have in your profile and this post. You have a "small lift", an SYE and a DC driveline. With a DC DL. You start by pointing the rear pinion 1 degree below the transfer case output. You do this with the upper adjustable control arms that you should have installed by this stage. Do you have adjustable control arms? After that if you still have vibrations then you change the angle of the rear pinion until the vibrations go away.
I don’t have adjustable control arms. Just bought the Jeep and I’m told it’s a 2inch spacers for a lift
Hmm most 2" spacer lifts dont usually require a DC driveline. Those are usually reserved for 4 inch (ish) lifts. You might try an OEM driveline. DC being a Double Cardon joint on one end and a single U joint on the other for high angle situations.
So if disconnecting it removes the droning then just get a brand new one. Makes sense
Maybe the Previous Owner got a little over zealous in his application of parts? I am sure there are more qualified folks on here that can speak to proper drive line angles, my first thought is the DC is not the appropriate driveline style for this application. Many people get along just fine with an OEM DL in this situation. An occasional few still get vibrations. I would test a normal DL.
Removed the front, vibes went away! Just installed front adjustable control arms and re adjusted front pinion, it was needed! I was originally at 2 degrees on the shaft and 6 on the pinion. Now I have them within 1.5 degrees (down on pinion). I have 2.5 springs and a 1.25" BL & MML, you really need to add the SYE and adjustable arms to get things squared out in most situations IMO..
Welp, guess I have more work to do... I tried to read all I could on here and thought it was the same as the rear. Thanks for the heads up!
Do you say that because of the direction of deflection under load? I would be hesitant to sacrifice more caster angle.
I believe the manual says set the pinion for zero and accept whatever caster that gives you. Of course that is for a stock Jeep and compromises may need to be made otherwise.
Spoke to soon! Droning vibe still exists @ 65 MPH. Total angle was at 4 degrees (pinion up) and now at 1.5 degrees (pinion down). I am reluctant to think 1.5 degrees will make this go away.
A couple things to keep in mind. If this is an OEM drive shaft, I probably has a LOT of miles on it and at OEM angles is probably still fine, but you are not at OEM angles any more, you could still have worn ujoints and the shaft could be out of balance a bit so having the DL checked and rebalanced may help, that's 1. The front precise angles just don't matter, you raise the pinion angle until the vibe disappears to the point you can live with. Here is a thread where I was going through the same thing and the advice given to me by folks that know WAY more than I do. https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/caster-adjustment-advice.76473/
My own experience, I could not get my front vibration to go away at any angle, so I set it to the least amount of drone at 70 MPH, then I turned it from a cylinder to an oval on a log. Had to have it retubed and now I have zero vibration all the way up to 80 mph. only thing changed was re-tubing the DL, so rebalanced.
My own experience, I could not get my front vibration to go away at any angle, so I set it to the least amount of drone at 70 MPH, then I turned it from a cylinder to an oval on a log. Had to have it retubed and now I have zero vibration all the way up to 80 mph. only thing changed was re-tubing the DL, so rebalanced.