Why is that? I was under the impression that a failsafe thermostat failed in the open position which is a good thing.
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Replacing only the radiator?
- Thread starter buhlahkay
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- coolant leak radiator
With 145 I'm on my second idler, first replacement tensioner, fourth belt, first replacement radiator, second fan clutch, third set of hoses, third housing and thermostat at least and original pump. Just my experience in this one Jeep but other older vehicles have been similar so I post what I post.
The problem is they regularly tend to fail in the open position. They designed it to one extreme... that it'll never fail in the closed position but it easily fails in the open position.
I've had just one thermostat fail in the closed position in all my many (!) years of driving. And that sole event was when I was offroad in Big Bear California, I had to remove it to finish the trail which took maybe 15 minutes. That was nearly 20 years ago. Which is no doubt why the automotive industry didn't switch to using so-called "fail-safe" thermostats... they aren't fail-safe at all.
I'd much rather have a t-stat that fails open, than one that fails closed. The first gives you a cold running engine, the second gives you a blown head gasket. Ask me how I know this...
With that said, a "regular" t-stat is easier to obtain, and failures of either type are rare.
You do not need to remove the radiator to change the WP, T-stat, hoses, belt, or fan clutch.
With that said, a "regular" t-stat is easier to obtain, and failures of either type are rare.
You do not need to remove the radiator to change the WP, T-stat, hoses, belt, or fan clutch.
Yep, or the A/C clutch bearing, or the power steering pump or the crankshaft damper or the timing chain. There's always going to be something, learning how to detect parts that have failed is always time better spent than replacing good parts.
Alright, I've got everything in the cart, but before I pull the trigger I just have one final question.
I read with great interest @MountaineerTom's observations on the Stant thermostat that everyone around here uses. Has anyone else had this issue where the tall bridge prevents it from sitting flush with the housing? My greatest fear is that I will replace everything this weekend only to end up with a new gasket leak, so his post makes me think I should opt for a Mopar T-stat just to be safe. Thoughts?
I read with great interest @MountaineerTom's observations on the Stant thermostat that everyone around here uses. Has anyone else had this issue where the tall bridge prevents it from sitting flush with the housing? My greatest fear is that I will replace everything this weekend only to end up with a new gasket leak, so his post makes me think I should opt for a Mopar T-stat just to be safe. Thoughts?
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
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I think the only reason I had the problem with the bridge hitting was because I drilled the hole for purging air in the wrong location. If I had checked that fit first and then drilled the hole in the correct spot I don’t think it would have been an issue.
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