Rusty's Tie Rod Conversion Install Problem

[Mark Pate]

Greetings:

Have a huge problem and hope you guys can help. Dealing with a 97 TJ SE with the following on the front suspension:

Rough Country 4" Suspension kit (fixed upper and lower control arms)
Rubicon Express RE1600 Adj track bar
Tera Flex 9550 HD Stabilizer shock
Rustys RS-SC250-UV Tie Rod Conversion

The PO installed the RC kit with the factory track bar, the front axle was almost 2" off center. I had a brand new RE1600 bar laying around I bought for an XJ, but it shows compatible so I used it. Installed the track bar 1st, worked wonderfully, axle is now centered. Not only that, but I upgraded the axle hardware to grade 8 1/2" bolt and the frame to a heim joint with 5/8" grade 8 bolt torqued to 150lbs. Looks like it will hold up well. ** The track bar is mounted in the factory location **

I upgraded the steering with a metal reservoir, new pump, Durango box, new lines and a cooler. No problems.

Installed the Rusty's kit and everything seemed to be going fine until I come to the stabilizer. I can not make it work with the existing hardware. I checked Rusty's site, they show the stabilizer installed on the rear of the drag link (as per the included instructions). As you an clearly see in the mockup below, there is no room for the stabilizer to fit between the track bar and the drag link and the mounting hole is below the track bar. This is exactly how they show it fastened. That bolt hanging down is supposed to go in the hole in the bracket thats under the track bar.The one on Rusty's site shows a stabilizer without any protective sleeve, but the Teraflex sleeve is not removable and even if it was the mounting hardware is placing it under the RE track bar.

The only way I can possibly see it working is to fabricate a bracket to mount the stabilizer on TOP of the drag link. As seen in the next photo, that seems to place it parallel to the drag link and the stabilizer doesnt seem to be in a bind, although I have not tried to mount it to see if it will travel as it should:

Is this because I didn't use all Rusty components? I ordered this through Quadratec, the guy seemed to know what he was talking about. Any help would be appreciated. I'd really like to keep this HD steering setup with 33x12.50 tires

 

[Chris]

Quadratec strikes again. I hate those guys.

Anyways, the first thing I'll say and get out of the way is that no one who knows what they're talking about would suggest swapping out the stock Haltenberger style steering for a crossover steering system. That's a really stupid thing to do unless you have a very specific reason for needing a crossover setup (and running 35" tires isn't one).

All you should have to do to fix this is play around with different mounting angles for the stabilizer. I had to do this with my steering stabilizer when I put on my Currie Currectlync steering. I fussed around with it for 20 minutes before I finally found the way to mount it where it wouldn't interfere. I'm positive you can get it mounted correctly, but I think I need to see a photo taken a little further away to see what we're dealing with in terms of where everything is at.

I have no doubt it should fit just fine though if you play with it enough. Mine was the same way!

 

[Mark Pate]

Thank you Chris. I sat and looked at it and messed with it some more, I believe it will work attached to the top of the drag link, that's where the stabilizer naturally wants to land. I think I can modify the bracket that came with the kit. I will post a pic of it when I finish if it works.

 

[Ahoragi]

Make the bracket verticle then twist the shock rod till shock bolt is horizontal and it should work.

 

[Chris]

Good to hear! I had a hell of a time with mine until I sat around playing with it for an hour. There's so many different ways you can mount it, you just have to find a position in which nothing contacts. Once I got that figured out, it was like, "Oh, that was actually pretty easy!".

Just one of those things you have to play with, almost like a puzzle.

 

[Jerry Bransford]

The last thing you want is Rusty's inverted-T steering system. No matter how wonderful Rusty makes it sound. Inverted-T steering systems 'suck' on TJs. Once finally installed they then cause a big dead spot in the steering and for dessert, bump steer. I'd cut my losses and toss the Rusty's junk and replace it with a steering upgrade that is uber-strong, doesn't screw up the steering geometry, and doesn't cause any problems whatsoever... Currie's HD steering upgrade kit.

 

[Brad W]

The last thing you want is Rusty's inverted-T steering system. No matter how wonderful Rusty makes it sound. Inverted-T steering systems 'suck' on TJs. Once finally installed they then cause a big dead spot in the steering and for dessert, bump steer. I'd cut my losses and toss the Rusty's junk and replace it with a steering upgrade that is uber-strong, doesn't screw up the steering geometry, and doesn't cause any problems whatsoever... Currie's HD steering upgrade kit.

I wish the previous owner to my jeep understood this.

 

[Chris]

I wish the previous owner to my jeep understood this.

I feel your pain. I wish more people would understand that unless you're going full width with the axles or have some very special requirements (i.e. Hydro Assist steering), deviating from the factory style Haltenberger steering design is a horrible, horrible idea that will only introduce more issues.

The best steering setup for the majority of us is the Currie Currectlync, or the ZJ tie-rod (if you can't justify the cost of the Currie).

 

[Brad W]

Yeah I'm going with the ZJ because after new tires, control arms, pitman arm, and lift I'll be on a strict budget. But, I'll be happy with my jeep.