Saber Thimble

Personally, anything metallic that touches the radius on the fairlead is a non-starter for me. I'd rather not have to replace the 150' synthetic rope on my winch due to damage from a messed up fairlead radius. That it may actually spread the fairlead opening due to winch pulling is a secondary reason, too.
I'll bet you a dollar I can suck that Saber right through a roller fairlead and it won't even slow it down.
 
They aren't typically know for doing retarded shit so there is that.

Is the retarded shit specifically referring to having the thimble lay flat against the fairlead (assuming the use of a rubber pad, and an adequate machined radius for the rope to follow), or just that Factor55 has done retarded shit in the past?
 
I never realized 3/4" soft shackles were made of what is commonly sold as 3/8" winch line or 10mm rope (edit: actually looks more like 11mm or 7/16" on closer inspection). Interesting.

Funny what you learn when you explore random shit like this. I've tied soft shackles with 6mm (edit: sold as 1/6" so probably 4mm) and used them kayaking but was always wary of doing bigger stuff because I thought I needed 3/4" rope. With 10mm it's only a little step up from what I've already done and it's the same line on the winch.

shackle.jpg


Here's the tutorial on how to tie it. This is my first one and I've tested it with the Jeep, not like a full pull or anything but enough to set the knot

 
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To revisit this, the TRE appears to be 7/16" or 11mm dyneema. Surprisingly the knot looks like a "better diamond" with melted ends on the top. If you check here you can see its strength compared to the knot above and the button knot with several break tests. Another friend has some Amazon specials, I'll check those out this weekend. If pictures can be trusted Bubba Rope shackles are a button knot so substantially stronger using the same material and size rope. Even Harbor Freight appears to use the better knot, I gotta check that out in person.
 
Hey Paul, way back to your original post on the saber, great idea but I can "imagine" two cons. One, is if you did accidentally pull too tight and left a gouge in the hawse, then that gouge could potentially cut your rope on the next pull.

The second possible con is if you were to hit the thimble and force it sideways under tension, it could (also) possibly cut the hawse, leaving a sharp area to cut your rope. Inspection could be needed every time you need to pull. Not that we don't do that anyway but just more to think about.

The design makes sense for rigs where the thimble is recessed or hidden though. A steel or cast steel hawse would probably work better too, the aluminum type seem "soft"
 
Another big downside of that thimble now other than all the things people have mentioned is shipping. I guess they realized it was expensive getting them to the states and started charging for it.

Tied my first button knot soft shackle with smaller line. It's much more compact and seems easier to tie than the one above. This line is about 4mm and not 6mm so it should hold about 2-3 tons based on break tests I've seen. I used the nylon from the ATV winch rope so it looks cool.

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I used this tutorial
 
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i looked at making some of my own. how'd you lock that knot? from what i think i learned they are not just tied, they are tied and tugged with a lot of force to lock that knot.
 
i looked at making some of my own. how'd you lock that knot? from what i think i learned they are not just tied, they are tied and tugged with a lot of force to lock that knot.
Small ones I set on my bumper. After I pull it tight as I can I just hook it through a steel bow shackle and step into the loop. For the bigger ones I use an F350 and my Jeep to set them. How not to high line has tested them and they can be stronger if you set them fully tied with the ends tucked. You should give it a try, it's not too difficult. Much easier than the loops on double braid nylon kinetics. Those take time and I've made mistakes. My first shackles were fine and the dyneema isn't too expensive. You can also tie and untie the button knot without tucking the ends as many times as you want to practice unlike the splice on the kinetic.