OP
Yup.. But I do love my Jeeps. Get 'em cheap from folks who don't love em. Throw reasonable dollars at keeping them road worthy until they really can' t move anymore and then repeat...
Sahara One
- Thread starter PeteTJ
- Start date
Wow, that is indeed a lot of rust you're dealing with there. At least you've got a lot to keep you busy!
OP
Supprisingly, under the rust is decent metal. I'd toss the project if it was Swiss, but there is enough solid left to keep going. An old horse with strong bones!
OP
Well.. This is new... Think of me as a Jeep dentist, I'd rather save the tooth... Not sure how to even start on this puzzle. Any suggestions?
Sent from my SM-T817W using Tapatalk
Sent from my SM-T817W using Tapatalk
OP
Ok... So I have located the mopar/crown part numbers for the Jounce and Cup. I expect I can squeeze the jounce through the expanded spring, but how would you suggest I handle the bolt? My bolt is not usable so I have to think up a way to remove it and replace it with a new bolt/nut. The cup has a hole in it for the nut/bolt.... Another $100/side going because I *looked* in the dark crevices of the TJ....
OP
Have you watched redneck garage on YouTube? He did a similar project...ended up with a new frame and tub!
You can reach the bolt with a ratchet and extension. Spray it down with some Kroil first and let it soak a few days. Mine is rust free and those were still a pita to get out.
OP
I have viewed a few of his *Educational* streams, but alas, I am doing my best to revive my machine. I am doing my best not to detach more than I absolutely have to. After seventeen years of the Canadian rust belt, most of the parts are self welded together. If I start separating the frame from the body... I'll end up sweeping the TJ into a Kimco truck.
OP
Quick update. I have spent the past few days (couple of hours here and there) cleaning up the frame or inspection. Descaling, brushing, rust arresting and finally texture painting. Looks rough in texture due the the years of pitting and spray on bedliner, but still viable. Working my way down from the frame now. Shocks, axles, etc.. It's actually turnung out better than I expected.
Oh, and it turns out that my Sahara is a feline magnet... Who knew...
PTJ
Oh, and it turns out that my Sahara is a feline magnet... Who knew...
PTJ
Give Davey's Jeeps a call in the US. They can get all 4 cups/bumpers/bolts to you shipped for a fair price. If it were me handling that section, I'd take a flap wheel and remove nearly all of the rust I could before using a rust converter on it. If the springs are something you plan on cleaning, consider taking them to a bead blasting booth and having them clean it up & painted. Alternatively H&R springs get a really good wrap around here.
The work you are doing is really good, my Jeep was a Maine Jeep and no where near the condition yours is. Looking forward to seeing this thing get plated
.
OP
Thanks...
I apologize to all. I have had a fairly busy month the the Sahara. I'll update the project posts later today.
PTJ
I apologize to all. I have had a fairly busy month the the Sahara. I'll update the project posts later today.
PTJ
OP
Ok.. Here we go...
-> a quick update of restoration work <-
As my family and I were battling the seemingly pandemic flu like infectious that spread across our fine globe, my work pace was slowed substantially. Add to that the yo-yo temperatures and an unheated garage... Well I am sure anyone in the northern US or Canada would agree that little bolts can take extra time to work.
At this point, the body rescue is done. The clutch replaced, rear seals, Diff seals, steering gear and battery are replaced.
I dropped the exhaust last week in order to replace the oil pan as it was seeping (right through the sides - I have never seen that before). As you would expect, two of the bolts securing the pan to the block are well rusted and seized.
I have used heat, penetrating oil, bolt extractors, alternative tools including vice grips and a hammer and lots of patience. No horn tooting here, but I have a habit of snapping bolts. I would rather not snap a bolt that will leave a stud in the block.
Thoughts?
PeteTN
-> a quick update of restoration work <-
As my family and I were battling the seemingly pandemic flu like infectious that spread across our fine globe, my work pace was slowed substantially. Add to that the yo-yo temperatures and an unheated garage... Well I am sure anyone in the northern US or Canada would agree that little bolts can take extra time to work.
At this point, the body rescue is done. The clutch replaced, rear seals, Diff seals, steering gear and battery are replaced.
I dropped the exhaust last week in order to replace the oil pan as it was seeping (right through the sides - I have never seen that before). As you would expect, two of the bolts securing the pan to the block are well rusted and seized.
I have used heat, penetrating oil, bolt extractors, alternative tools including vice grips and a hammer and lots of patience. No horn tooting here, but I have a habit of snapping bolts. I would rather not snap a bolt that will leave a stud in the block.
Thoughts?
PeteTN
Do you have a welder? You could try welding a nut to the bolt head...A lot of times, that much heat will break the corrosion loose. Impact set on a low setting (I imagine they are small'ish bolts)? Tap the block where the bolt is while trying to remove it?
OP
The bolts are 11mm (7/16). All the other, similar bolts came out with ease - even the ones with the extended screw and Nut design. On these remaining ones, the 11mm socket actaully slips. Like the rust has dropped the size down to 10.5. To big for a 10, too small for an 11. I do have a welder but I gotta telya, that's a very small head to weld to and, it being in near the rear corner of the pan, it's goumg to be really difficult to target. My luck, I'll and up welding the pan to the block
.I am considering (after copious amounts of peat based thought lubrication)...using a Dremel to 'slice' a ridge through the head to turn it into a screw. The pan bolts are not so tight to need an impact wrench. My other, probably ridiculous, thought was to cut the pan around the bolt(s). Slide (break) it off around the bolts leaving the entire bolt in place. That'll leave me with more bolt to grab onto and I have a new pan waiting...
Clever or psychotic - I am never sure...
PeteTJ
Hmmm...so the socket is slipping, that is better that the threads being stuck. I'd get a 10 mm socket and a BFH. Pound that sucker on there. A 12 PT socket will work better for this than the 6 PT. You should get enough bite to get the bolt to turn after that.
OP
It's worth a shot
. I'll crawl under tomorrow and see who wins....