Savvy cable shifter question

[Camdenst]

Hey guys, quick question on the savvy cable install on a 05 rubicon. I’ve read through the forums and various directions and cannot figure out whether to have the t case in 2 high or 4 low when starting.

Novak directions say 2 high for both the 231/ 241, but I’ve also read that people start in 4lo with the rubis.

Thanks in advance.

 

[toximus]

As long as your transfercase and shifter cane are in the same position you'll be fine.

 

[glwood]

Put the one I installed last with the TC in 2 Hi. Worked perfectly from there in the other ranges with no adjustment. Lucky, I guess. It was on an X, though. I don't see why a Rubicon would be different, although the shift arm on the Rubi points the opposite direction.

 

[Camdenst]

Brilliant. Thanks for the quick responses.

 

[Camdenst]

Any advice on getting to the top nut without having to go in from the top

 

[mrblaine]

Hey guys, quick question on the savvy cable install on a 05 rubicon. I’ve read through the forums and various directions and cannot figure out whether to have the t case in 2 high or 4 low when starting.

Novak directions say 2 high for both the 231/ 241, but I’ve also read that people start in 4lo with the rubis.

Thanks in advance.

Start at either end of the shift gate with the t-case in the same mode. When you get one end adjusted so that the shift lever and shift handle are at rest in the detents without any pressure trying to force the handle or lever either direction, then move the handle through the other modes and check for the same at each stop with the handle.

In other words- with the handle at one end, there should be a tiny bit of free play so you can wiggle the handle back and forth slightly and it isn't trying to force the t-case lever out of the detent. Then move it fully to the other end and check for the same there. When that is correct, move to each of the other modes with the shift handle to make sure that they all have no pressure from the handle or the lever trying to move them out of that mode. You don't want the stops in the shifter gate pushing the shift lever on the case out of its resting position for that mode.

So, it doesn't matter which end you start at and we typically start at the one that makes it easiest to hook up the linkage. Set the length of the cable first then you can move the cable housing ends back and forth in the mounts with the jam nuts to adjust throw. Usually that is 2hi and I hold the shift lever up just slightly off the end and my helper adjusts the length of the cable there.

 

[mrblaine]

Any advice on getting to the top nut without having to go in from the top

If by top nut you mean the two jam nuts, then the driveshaft needs to be out of the way, belly skid out of the way, and then a short open end wrench typically is all we use. If you don't have one, snag a cheapie and cut the end off. With the tooth washer in there, it doesn't have to be gorilla tight.

 

[toximus]

If by top nut you mean the two jam nuts, then the driveshaft needs to be out of the way, belly skid out of the way, and then a short open end wrench typically is all we use. If you don't have one, snag a cheapie and cut the end off. With the tooth washer in there, it doesn't have to be gorilla tight.

Lies! I did the full adjustment with the skid and driveshaft in! (...and it was a total pain and took more time than just removing those parts...) The trick is to use 2 wrenches with 1 hand.

 

[JMT]

I had no problem doing it all with the driveshaft and TCase skid in place. Then again, I'm ambidextrous, agile and very talented, not to mention good looking.

 

[toximus]

I had no problem doing it all with the driveshaft and TCase skid in place. Then again, I'm ambidextrous, agile and very talented, not to mention good looking.

Wow! Look at you being all cool and stuff.

I personally agree with Blaine to just remove the skid and driveshaft since we can't all be as good looking as you.

 

[JMT]

Wow! Look at you being all cool and stuff.

I personally agree with Blaine to just remove the skid and driveshaft since we can't all be as good looking as you.

I think good looks has more to do with wrenching than most people think. I mean, obviously! On that note, with all the cool stuff your doing with your frame resto, you must be reaching celebrity status on the looks scale! Impressive work....

 

[toximus]

I think good looks has more to do with wrenching than most people think. I mean, obviously! On that note, with all the cool stuff your doing with your frame resto, you must be reaching celebrity status on the looks scale! Impressive work....

Thanks! I just finished up the restoration phase last night and am now moving onto the fun stuff!

 

[Camdenst]

Just about finished with the install and what I've learned is that it is way easier to get to the top nut by going through the shifter hole and that a dremel makes removing the rubber grommets a breeze. However it still feels like 4lo isn't fully engaged. It will pop out by spinning the back tires, almost as if there is something blocking full engagement. I was going to try to knotch out the actual metal bracket 1/2 in for more room and see if it helps.

 

[JMT]

Once you get it close to perfect adjustment, get it on the ground and also drive it a bit and switch into and out of 2 Hi, 4 L, N and 4Lo. At this point there's no need to have all four wheels off the ground anyway, if everything is working. I did this and it adjusted out. Maybe @mrblaine has some additional advice on this point in addition to his detent post earlier.

 

[KCsTJ]

I had no problem doing it all with the driveshaft and TCase skid in place. Then again, I'm ambidextrous, agile and very talented, not to mention good looking.

... And humble, too! lol

 

[Camdenst]

Good tips. I pulled the front drive shaft and have the rear jacked up. Its odd. 4h and neutral are good solid shifts, but 4lo seems to just be barely in gear. The light comes on and the lockers engage but if I spin the back tires it pops out into neutral.

I'll try buttoning it up and driving it and readjust.

 

[mrblaine]

Just about finished with the install and what I've learned is that it is way easier to get to the top nut by going through the shifter hole and that a dremel makes removing the rubber grommets a breeze. However it still feels like 4lo isn't fully engaged. It will pop out by spinning the back tires, almost as if there is something blocking full engagement. I was going to try to knotch out the actual metal bracket 1/2 in for more room and see if it helps.

Never ever had to modify one to get it to work. If it won't stay in 4Low, loosen the jam nuts and move the cable housing towards the t-case. That adjusts the throw a bit further. Cable for length between holes, cable housing for throw.

 

[Camdenst]

Never ever had to modify one to get it to work. If it won't stay in 4Low, loosen the jam nuts and move the cable housing towards the t-case. That adjusts the throw a bit further. Cable for length between holes, cable housing for throw.

Thanks mr Blaine. I'll keep you guys posted.

 

[Schwifty Rich]

Hey everyone,
My bushing went out on my stock linkage and I'm just going to upgrade it at this point. I was about to pull the trigger but when I went to amazon it says the Savvy cable shifter is only for models from 2004-2006.
Savvy Cable Shifter
I've got a 2003 Rubicon so I was wondering if there would be anything different in terms of installation or if there is a different one for my 2003 out there I didnt find?

 

[toximus]

Hey everyone,
My bushing went out on my stock linkage and I'm just going to upgrade it at this point. I was about to pull the trigger but when I went to amazon it says the Savvy cable shifter is only for models from 2004-2006.
Savvy Cable Shifter
I've got a 2003 Rubicon so I was wondering if there would be anything different in terms of installation or if there is a different one for my 2003 out there I didnt find?

Looks to be a typo: https://savvyoffroad.com/product/sav-241s/