Scored me a Rubicon Dana 44 front axle housing

Brian83

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 25, 2019
Messages
390
Location
Oklahoma City, OK
Picked this up today. Set up for coilovers and 3 link as of now. Probably going to go with new Artec brackets since it already has the Artec truss.

84643
 
that one top link is too small to be used as a 3 link if it is the stock 10mm hole one. @mrblaine would have more information about 3 linking but I remember that somewhere being discussed on the interweb.
 
that one top link is too small to be used as a 3 link if it is the stock 10mm hole one. @mrblaine would have more information about 3 linking but I remember that somewhere being discussed on the interweb.

The coilover brackets are going to be cut off and it will be set back up for coilsprings and all 4 control arms.
 
Sweet! Already trussed too (y)
Trussing a Dana 44 or a Dana 30 front is a fool's errand. If that axle crossed my driveway for free, I'd toss it in the scrap pile. The truss is doing nothing except limiting up travel between it and the oil pan. That is a terrible place for coil over mounts since all that does is drive the top of the coil over up much higher than it needs to be. The trackbar mount is too low and the location makes it too short to eliminate bump steer unless it was run with the stock style steering. If it was run with the stock style steering, then it is too high. That thing is a mess even if you ignore the stock mount on the diff.

He's going to have some time getting it squared away and useable.
 
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I have a welder and plenty of free time so I'm not worried. And all the coilover stuff is going in the trash as i thats not what im set up for.
You don't need a welder for the hard part, you need a plasma cutter or a good cutting torch and some careful use thereof or lots of grinding discs. If you want some good ones, try the 3M Cubitron.
 
I believe that Blaine is telling you to strip off everything and start as a bare housing...which is not bad advice. Tim
 
You don't need a welder for the hard part, you need a plasma cutter or a good cutting torch and some careful use thereof or lots of grinding discs. If you want some good ones, try the 3M Cubitron.

He's also going to need some flap discs once he gets close.

OP if you haven't already, it's time to invest in a quality angle grinder. You might want to wear a particulate mask too with that much grinding.
 
I just noticed that it's a bare housing... After all costs, materials, and time involved getting it right I think you'd be better off spending money on a pre-assembled housing or if you do want to set it up yourself a blank housing from Currie would save you considerable time.
 
You don't need a welder for the hard part, you need a plasma cutter or a good cutting torch and some careful use thereof or lots of grinding discs. If you want some good ones, try the 3M Cubitron.

would you recommend ditching the truss and sleeving the axle instead? I'm open to all suggestions.
 
I just noticed that it's a bare housing... After all costs, materials, and time involved getting it right I think you'd be better off spending money on a pre-assembled housing or if you do want to set it up yourself a blank housing from Currie would save you considerable time.


I may be wrong but I seem to think I can build this axle for around $2500 ready to install. Not taking account for all my time or shop supplies.
 
I may be wrong but I seem to think I can build this axle for around $2500 ready to install. Not taking account for all my time or shop supplies.

It looks like Currie is at $3000 or so delivered for a high pinion 44 (depending on options of course) so it depends on what your time and shop supplies are worth.
 
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Sure, as long as it is an external sleeve and not internal.
To expand on that, internal sleeves just don't add significant strength. The math proves it. A thin external sleeve adds significantly more strength than the thickest internal sleeve that can fit inside the tube.
 
To expand on that, internal sleeves just don't add significant strength. The math proves it. A thin external sleeve adds significantly more strength than the thickest internal sleeve that can fit inside the tube.
Does anyone make a kit for this or is it cutting off the C's, sleeving and rewelding? A quick google search showed a Rock Slide kit for a JK but nothing for a TJ.