Seeking advice on motor mount lift

Murf926

TJ Enthusiast
Original poster
Joined
May 18, 2020
Messages
179
Location
Castle Rock Colorado
Hi all,
I'm going to be doing a MML very soon and I thought I would ask all you fine folks who have already done this for advice on how to accomplish this task with the least amount of pain. Here are some questions that come to mind:

1. Which MML should I buy? I currently have a M.O.R.E. 1" body lift and I'm looking at both the M.O.R.E. and Brown Dog rubber 1" motor mounts as opposed to the budget spacer type. Recommendations?

2. What is the best method to use to support and raise the motor?

3. What are the common problems that people have run into while performing this mod?

4. Any tips and tricks?

I don't have AC and it looks like I have plenty of room to get to all the motor mount bolts, but I've heard numerous horror stories of people struggling to get this done. I'm hoping that the vast knowledge and experience around here can help this old man out.

Thanks a bunch!
 
DEFINITELY go with the Bombproof from MORE over Brown Dog's. Brown Dog's rubber bushings are way stiffer, nearly as stiff as urethane, and will allow their mounts to transfer far more engine vibration into the passenger compartment. That's still true even with Brown Dog's later "softer" rubber bushings.

However if your existing Mopar motor mounts are in excellent condition then spacers are a better way to go. But with them being nearly 20 years old are they still in good enough condition to not need replacement?

When I installed the couple pairs of MMLs I have done, I first of all made sure I had a helper. Being able to get help from the top from a helper while you're under the Jeep can be really helpful. Personally I used nothing but a hydraulic floor jack and a 2x4 placed between it and the edge of the engine pan center between two of the pan mounting bolts. I took the weight off the mount with a small amount of jack height then unbolted that side's mount and did the replacement. Then moved the jack and 2x4 to the other side and did it. Unbolt just one side's mount at a time and make sure the floor jack can't be pushed out of position.

Good luck with whatever way you decide to go.
 
DEFINITELY go with the Bombproof from MORE over Brown Dog's. Brown Dog's rubber bushings are way stiffer, nearly as stiff as urethane, and will allow their mounts to transfer far more engine vibration into the passenger compartment. That's still true even with Brown Dog's later "softer" rubber bushings.

However if your existing Mopar motor mounts are in excellent condition then spacers are a better way to go. But with them being nearly 20 years old are they still in good enough condition to not need replacement?

When I installed the couple pairs of MMLs I have done, I first of all made sure I had a helper. Being able to get help from the top from a helper while you're under the Jeep can be really helpful. Personally I used nothing but a hydraulic floor jack and a 2x4 placed between it and the edge of the engine pan center between two of the pan mounting bolts. I took the weight off the mount with a small amount of jack height then unbolted that side's mount and did the replacement. Then moved the jack and 2x4 to the other side and did it. Unbolt just one side's mount at a time and make sure the floor jack can't be pushed out of position.

Good luck with whatever way you decide to go.

Thanks Jerry,
I think my motor mounts look OK and I don't get any crazy vibration from the motor, so I may just go with a spacer then.
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Just to make sure I'm reading correctly, are you saying to place a 2x4 between 2 bolts where the oil pan bolts to the block to raise the motor one side at a time?
 
Don’t forget to check fan shroud clearance, even if you’re installing a body lift at the same time.

Thanks Tob. I installed a body lift years ago and drilled new holes in the fan shroud for that. I'm hoping I can just go back to the original holes, but I'll pay close attention for clearance.
 
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If you go with spacers, take a look here for some hints. You may have to grind a little metal from one of the spacers, and maybe from your motor mount brackets, too.
 
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Just installed a JKS spacer lift with stock engine mounts on my '05. Had a bit of a problem with passenger bolt alignment but eventually got it done. Bolt on outboard side was off by a 1/8" and kept cross threading rather going on straight. Used a punch locating tool to pry the the spacer block into alignment but it kept slipping back out of position. Finally lowered the engine weight onto the pad after prying bolt hole into alignment and weight of engine held it in place to get bolt to screw in properly.

Replacing the block motor mount bracket on driver's side was impossible till I figured out to use punches in two of the bolt holes to locate the bracket and screw bolt in the remaining hole. Once the first bolt was in it went back on easy peasy. If you have air conditioning on later models the block bracket needs to be removed to get the mount bolt out.

Have a Savvy 1 1/4" body lift. Installed the body and motor mount lift with fan shroud in place. Just be sure no fan blade is pointing straight up or down. Used a hydraulic jack to lift engine. Use a block of wood fore and aft on the engine oil pan spanning vertical sides. Jacking the engine with the support in the middle of the oil pan will put a slight bend in the oil pan.
 
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If you go with spacers, take a look here for some hints. You may have to grind a little metal from one of the spacers, and maybe from your motor mount brackets, too.

Great info in that link! Thanks Buzz!

Just installed a JKS spacer lift with stock engine mounts on my '05. Had a bit of a problem with passenger bolt alignment but eventually got it done. Bolt on outboard side was off by a 1/8" and kept cross threading rather going on straight. Used a punch locating tool to pry the the spacer block into alignment but it kept slipping back out of position. Finally lowered the engine weight onto the pad after prying bolt hole into alignment and weight of engine held it in place to get bolt to screw in properly.

Replacing the block motor mount bracket on driver's side was impossible till I figured out to use punches in two of the bolt holes to locate the bracket and screw bolt in the remaining hole. Once the first bolt was in it went back on easy peasy. If you have air conditioning on later models the block bracket needs to be removed to get the mount bolt out.

Have a Savvy 1 1/4" body lift. Installed the body and motor mount lift with fan shroud in place. Just be sure no fan blade is pointing straight up or down. Used a hydraulic jack to lift engine. Use a block of wood fore and aft on the engine oil pan spanning vertical sides. Jacking the engine with the support in the middle of the oil pan will put a slight bend in the oil pan.

Useful info. Thanks.
 
Man, after reading all the headaches people have had installing lift blocks, I'm thinking it might be worth the extra cost to just get the M.O.R.E. Bomb Proof motor mounts and go with those.

I really appreciate all the input!
 
If you have air conditioning on later models the block bracket needs to be removed to get the mount bolt out.
Actually, the bracket does not need to be removed. If you loosen the three bolts, but leave the bracket attached, it allows that long MM bolt to sneak past the A/C.
 
Man, after reading all the headaches people have had installing lift blocks, I'm thinking it might be worth the extra cost to just get the M.O.R.E. Bomb Proof motor mounts and go with those.

I really appreciate all the input!

Wouldn’t recommend them. I installed them and gained lots of vibrations at idle. If I could go back and do it again (which I may do eventually) I would keep the originals and use lift blocks.
 
Wouldn’t recommend them. I installed them and gained lots of vibrations at idle. If I could go back and do it again (which I may do eventually) I would keep the originals and use lift blocks.

Maybe I should just suck it up and stop trying to look for an easy way out. If I go the lift block route, I'll start early on a Saturday so I can hopefully finish over the weekend.
 
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I just bought a set of used 1" motor mount lift blocks from a guy but he didn't have the hardware. Does anyone know what hardware I need for the lift block and where I might buy it?
 
I just bought a set of used 1" motor mount lift blocks from a guy but he didn't have the hardware. Does anyone know what hardware I need for the lift block and where I might buy it?

You should be able to find some to match up with at a hardware store. Mine looks like this.
MML.jpg