Should I get an adjustable track bar for a 0-3 inch lift?

What ever you get can depend on if you want to drill out the frame side mount. Once you do that there is no going back. I got my TJ in nearly stock form and would like to be able to return to that if I ever want to. So I went with (from suggestions here) rough Country 7572. Good heavy bar. It uses a standard 1 ton tie rod end for easy replacement. But what I found to be the best part was the way it was designed. Many trackbars have to be disconnected from the axle mount to adjust. And that just sucks. It just sucks! With this bar you simply drop the bar easily on the frame mount, give it a turn or two and reinstall. Clean. Easy. Simple. If the adjustment is on the lower section of the bar you have to deal with the axle side mount. No fun at all. The 7572 bar is also significantly cheaper than some of the other names.
If you plan on doing a lot of extreme rock crawling I would suggest the Currie, but if you intend on a lot of road driving and light/med trails and want to maintain factory design, then I suggest this.
If you are going the rock crawler route then any bar that uses the stock frame mount (drilled out or not) isn't what I would do. Get a frame mount that holds the trackbar in double shear with a horizontal bolt.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
Before replacing the front track bar first get its axle side mounting bolt properly torqued. I'd start by replacing the OE bolt, which isn't hard to break by trying to get it tighter.

I replaced mine with Black Magic's extra strong replacement bolt and flag nut at https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.c...high-strength-SS-Bolt-HD-FLAG-NUT-SS-BOLT.htm

The ARP website says 54 ft-lbs for that bolt but I seem to recall @mrblaine (owner of Black Magic) advised something less than that to me. Maybe he'll chime in here with some words of wisdom.
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Interesting. Thanks I’ll check
Goatman said:
What ever you get can depend on if you want to drill out the frame side mount. Once you do that there is no going back. I got my TJ in nearly stock form and would like to be able to return to that if I ever want to. So I went with (from suggestions here) rough Country 7572. Good heavy bar. It uses a standard 1 ton tie rod end for easy replacement. But what I found to be the best part was the way it was designed. Many trackbars have to be disconnected from the axle mount to adjust. And that just sucks. It just sucks! With this bar you simply drop the bar easily on the frame mount, give it a turn or two and reinstall. Clean. Easy. Simple. If the adjustment is on the lower section of the bar you have to deal with the axle side mount. No fun at all. The 7572 bar is also significantly cheaper than some of the other names.
If you plan on doing a lot of extreme rock crawling I would suggest the Currie, but if you intend on a lot of road driving and light/med trails and want to maintain factory design, then I suggest this.
If you are going the rock crawler route then any bar that uses the stock frame mount (drilled out or not) isn't what I would do. Get a frame mount that holds the trackbar in double shear with a horizontal bolt.
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thank you for your time and suggestions. I am looking at the RC one at the moment as I’m trying to save a bit of cash. I will never be a rock crawler until my kids are out of university and I can afford to fix what I break without worrying about it. I think the RC solution is reasonable especially since it is a quick install and will be fine with a small lift hopefully this fall. Again thanks for your help
 
Incidentally, I misread something in your post... exactly where is the movement in the factory track bar coming from, the frame-side or the axle-side mount?
 
JKS and Currie bars require drilling out of the frame side mount due to it be a tappered hole to accept a standard tie rod. The Currie bar may cause interference with the front diff cover if bump stop extensions aren't added to the suspension. The JKS bar may also interfere if proper bumps aren't added.
 
bobthetj03 said:
JKS and Currie bars require drilling out of the frame side mount due to it be a tappered hole to accept a standard tie rod. The Currie bar may cause interference with the front diff cover if bump stop extensions aren't added to the suspension. The JKS bar may also interfere if proper bumps aren't added.
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Rough country makes good quality track bars, this one will work on 1.5” of lift and higher. And no drilling out.
https://www.extremeterrain.com/roug...V9T6tBh0sCg3PEAQYBSABEgKlc_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
3C5215CA-BC11-4833-9268-7602912BD60B.jpeg
 
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bobthetj03 said:
JKS and Currie bars require drilling out of the frame side mount due to it be a tappered hole to accept a standard tie rod. The Currie bar may cause interference with the front diff cover if bump stop extensions aren't added to the suspension. The JKS bar may also interfere if proper bumps aren't added.
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Based on mine, before I modified it, Currie needs about 1.5" bump stop extension. To clear the factory cover.
 
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Personally, if you are 0-2" lift with stock length shocks it's probably better to keep the factory track bar. That way you don't need to bump just to clear your diff. If you get longer shocks because of the lift, like for a 2-3" lift and have to bump anyway, then sure it makes sense. Not to mention the axle will start to get further out of line at that point. It seems like 0-3" is a little too much range to give just one answer. I'd get the bar when you get the longer shocks and probably not before. You can get an inexpensive stock replacement from rockauto for under $40.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
Incidentally, I misread something in your post... exactly where is the movement in the factory track bar coming from, the frame-side or the axle-side mount?
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Frame side I believe. (Driver side) he showed me just by moving the steering wheel side to side, the Trackbar arm was moving up and down easily. I have 350 000km on original Trackbar. I’m hoping it’s the issue but it can’t hurt to replace it I guess.
 
pagrey said:
Personally, if you are 0-2" lift with stock length shocks it's probably better to keep the factory track bar. That way you don't need to bump just to clear your diff. If you get longer shocks because of the lift, like for a 2-3" lift and have to bump anyway, then sure it makes sense. Not to mention the axle will start to get further out of line at that point. It seems like 0-3" is a little too much range to give just one answer. I'd get the bar when you get the longer shocks and probably not before. You can get an inexpensive stock replacement from rockauto for under $40.
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A good point. I also looked at the stock replacement and was wondering if I should just buy one as a temporary fix until I decide on a small lift and tires. I’m just finishing up a seat swap and making a small custom front console and ammo box storage between seats. Because I’m nuts I’m also getting it powder coated to match the Jeep. I might want to go with what is easiest and enjoy the driving for a few months. You got me thinking
 
CodaMan said:
@bossross. I've done 2.5" lifts on two different Jeeps and neither needed an adjustable track bar. A rear relocation bracket was all that was needed.
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Just to be 100 % I have a 2 1/2 in lift with a relocation bracket on the rear. I am going to replace my front track bar and have been wondering if I need to get an adjustable one. From what you said I do not need an adjustable track bar. I do not rock crawl just a little hunting and mild off road.
 
Firstjeepbuild said:
Just to be 100 % I have a 2 1/2 in lift with a relocation bracket on the rear. I am going to replace my front track bar and have been wondering if I need to get an adjustable one. From what you said I do not need an adjustable track bar. I do not rock crawl just a little hunting and mild off road.
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You do not need one but your Jeep may be off center because of the lift. To recenter without an adjustable track bar some will drill a second hole in the mount that “relocates” it. I would rather not do that so recommend an adjustable for the front if you care about being centered which some don’t.
 
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Firstjeepbuild said:
Just to be 100 % I have a 2 1/2 in lift with a relocation bracket on the rear. I am going to replace my front track bar and have been wondering if I need to get an adjustable one. From what you said I do not need an adjustable track bar. I do not rock crawl just a little hunting and mild off road.
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If you're replacing it, why not just get an adjustable TB.
 
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primetime4 said:
You do not need one but your Jeep may be off center because of the lift. To recenter without an adjustable track bar some will drill a second hole in the mount that “relocates” it. I would rather not do that so recommend an adjustable for the front if you care about being centered which some don’t.
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Thanks for the reply. I am ordering the JKS adjustable track bar for the 1 to 3.5 in lift.
 
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Firstjeepbuild said:
Thanks for the reply. I am ordering the JKS adjustable track bar for the 1 to 3.5 in lift.
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Just be aware that you will have to drill out the frame side mount to install it and will likely have to add bumpstop to prevent contact between it and the diff cover when the suspension compresses.
 
Good decision on getting an adjustable TB. Did a 3” lift and instructions said “drill a second hole”, I figured that was a bad idea so got an adjustable TB
 
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Firstjeepbuild said:
Thanks for the reply. I am ordering the JKS adjustable track bar for the 1 to 3.5 in lift.
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deadbeat son said:
Just be aware that you will have to drill out the frame side mount to install it
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You could start with one that mounts like oem and doesn't require drilling the frame mount.
I think Rough Country makes one (post 27) and probably others.
 
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