Should I get sway bar disconnects?
- Thread starter KimsJeep
- Start date
Lets take for example photos in post #31.
So, when the antisway bar is disconnected the TJ’s body would be more level to the road.
So, when disconnected the TJ is less likely to roll over than when connected.
Stop thinking level to the ground. In those pics, the rear sway bar is still connected. The rear sway bar is working to keep the body parallel to it's axle.
A disconnected front sway bar is not trying to keep the body and front axle parallel. But the rear still is.
Here we see both axles crossed up.
The front and rear sway bars are about the same stiffness. Both are working to keep the body parallel to it's respective axle. Each sway bar is twisted opposite of the other.
Now, assuming there was remaining shock travel, what would happen to the body if one of the sway bars was disconnected and the one connected sway bar was able to bring the body parallel to it's axle? Now switch sway bars and imagine what would happen.
Now think about how a stiffer factory front sway bar interacts with the lighter rear sway bar.
The front and rear sway bars are about the same stiffness. Both are working to keep the body parallel to it's respective axle. Each sway bar is twisted opposite of the other.
Now, assuming there was remaining shock travel, what would happen to the body if one of the sway bars was disconnected and the one connected sway bar was able to bring the body parallel to it's axle? Now switch sway bars and imagine what would happen.
Now think about how a stiffer factory front sway bar interacts with the lighter rear sway bar.
Okay! I got that part thanks! Body parallel to it’s axle.
that’s sexy
So, because they are both the same stiffness the body is kept relatively level. (Since opposite sides are dropped)
the connected side (since the other is disconnected) would tilt the body (parallel to it’s axle) so the TJ would lean to the one side. Correct?
The front factory because it’s stiffer than the rear factory would cause the body to tilt more in favor of the front axle (when both connected)
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The only thing I am not sure!?!? :
In a situation like in your photo in post #39 (when both front and rear axle drop the same side tires). The TJ would lean more when the front disconnected, since the less stiffer rear (connected) is not able to be as effective as the front one (when connected)?
Correct?
So, in this situation is roll over more likely to happen when the front sway bar is disconnected than connected?
The body of the yellow Jeep in #39 would lean more with one or both bars disconnected because when connected, the sway bars are resisting gravity while they work to keep the body parallel to their axles.
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The body is kept balanced between the opposing forces of the connected sway bars and the axles they are attached to. There is nothing in the system that knows or cares where level is.
Everything in a well built suspension is about controlling movements and directing forces.
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@jvvw, your posts on this subject are very helpful. I know in my head how the anti sway bars work but you’ve articulated it very well and helped me better understand what I knew.
I have disconnects in the front and eventually I’ll get an AR. My factory rear track bar was removed when the previous owner installed the lift. I don’t know why. I suspect clearance issues or ignorance or both.
At any rate after reading your insights on how the front and rear anti sway bars work in unison with each other I’ve gained more understanding and will be adding a rear anti sway bar to my long list of upgrades. So thanks.
@mrblaine, I’ve researched the forums on info regarding the rear AR and haven’t found a definitive answer to a couple questions I have, when you get a chance maybe you can clarify some things for me:
1. From my reading I’ve determined that the factory rear track bar is sufficient in tandem with the front AR.
2. I assume that the rear AR is specifically designed and engineered to work with the front AR and will give even better performance than the “acceptable” performance of the factory rear track bar.
3. I’ve also read OPINIONS that the rear AR is considered somewhat superfluous and really only necessary to squeeze the last little bit of performance out of the system.
So being that I don’t have a factory rear track bar, what are your opinions on buying and installing a factory setup with extended links VS ponying up and going with the Currie rear AR? Looking at it from a cost to performance ROI is the rear AR that much better than a factory setup with extended links?
I don’t really think rocks getting into the extended links on a modified factory setup would be an issue for me, however if the performance of the rear AR is significantly better I think I’d rather save for the Currie as opposed to buying a factory setup.
Jeep info: 2001 sport with 4.6, 35’s, rubicon axles, 4 inch teraflex long arm weld on full kit (don’t judge me. It was installed by the previous owner and it’s a nice full lift kit that’s set up pretty well and I have zero issues so far)
Disconnects in the front and NO track bar in the rear.
(short term plans include savvy 1.25 BL long term plans include rear outboard shocks and savvy GTS”)
My Jeep is a daily driver and I do take it off-road every chance I get but I don’t wheel extremely technical trails (yet). My goals are to upgrade it with an overkill attitude directed towards performance. (Just because. Lol.) however if the advantages of the rear AR vs the factory setup is near negligible I don’t see much of a reason to go “overkill” on that component. Any info is appreciated. Thanks.
I have disconnects in the front and eventually I’ll get an AR. My factory rear track bar was removed when the previous owner installed the lift. I don’t know why. I suspect clearance issues or ignorance or both.
At any rate after reading your insights on how the front and rear anti sway bars work in unison with each other I’ve gained more understanding and will be adding a rear anti sway bar to my long list of upgrades. So thanks.
@mrblaine, I’ve researched the forums on info regarding the rear AR and haven’t found a definitive answer to a couple questions I have, when you get a chance maybe you can clarify some things for me:
1. From my reading I’ve determined that the factory rear track bar is sufficient in tandem with the front AR.
2. I assume that the rear AR is specifically designed and engineered to work with the front AR and will give even better performance than the “acceptable” performance of the factory rear track bar.
3. I’ve also read OPINIONS that the rear AR is considered somewhat superfluous and really only necessary to squeeze the last little bit of performance out of the system.
So being that I don’t have a factory rear track bar, what are your opinions on buying and installing a factory setup with extended links VS ponying up and going with the Currie rear AR? Looking at it from a cost to performance ROI is the rear AR that much better than a factory setup with extended links?
I don’t really think rocks getting into the extended links on a modified factory setup would be an issue for me, however if the performance of the rear AR is significantly better I think I’d rather save for the Currie as opposed to buying a factory setup.
Jeep info: 2001 sport with 4.6, 35’s, rubicon axles, 4 inch teraflex long arm weld on full kit (don’t judge me. It was installed by the previous owner and it’s a nice full lift kit that’s set up pretty well and I have zero issues so far)
Disconnects in the front and NO track bar in the rear.
(short term plans include savvy 1.25 BL long term plans include rear outboard shocks and savvy GTS”)
My Jeep is a daily driver and I do take it off-road every chance I get but I don’t wheel extremely technical trails (yet). My goals are to upgrade it with an overkill attitude directed towards performance. (Just because. Lol.) however if the advantages of the rear AR vs the factory setup is near negligible I don’t see much of a reason to go “overkill” on that component. Any info is appreciated. Thanks.
I have no idea. My lift kit is a weld on 4” teraflex long arm with new trusses/brackets welded on the pumpkin for the triangulation in the rear. I’m assuming the previous owner had clearance issues with the track bar somehow or just ignorance and removed it for “more flex” lol.
I am just waiting here for the answer of the more experienced ones. I would like to know if there is any other logical reason to remove the rear track bar. Other than ignorance
I think you might be confusing rear track bar and rear sway bar in this post. Or I'm not reading it right?
I don't want to hijack the thread, but why to switch to triangulated control arms?
Clearance issues?
No worries just trying to help get your questions answered. I will let the experts chime in buy in my opinion you should see if a oem used rear sway bar would fit. I imagine that would be considerably cheaper than an Antirock rear sway and most people are ok with only antirock sway in the front and oem sway in the rear. Just my 2 cents since I'm still new to this too.
Triangulated control arms eliminate the need for a track bar to keep the axle centered. Doing so also eliminates the bind that four control arms and a track bar create due to the track bar necessarily shifting the axle side to side. Eliminating the side to side movement removes the slight tail wag and makes outboarding the rear shocks a bit easier.
The process of triangulating also creates the opportunity to correct the suspension geometry after a taller spring lift.
The pic of mine with the axles crossed up is with a front SwayLoc and the factory rear sway bar. Front and rear shocks are 12" travel divided 50/50 at ride height. Point being that neither is restricting the available shock travel.
The reason for a rear Antirock is for when the factory rear no longer fits for one reason or another, or when you feel it would be beneficial to have a stiffer rear sway bar.