Skid Plate / Shovel Spacers

[A-TJ-J.D.]

So I wonder if there is a better solution than these three round spacers for this skid plate/shovel. Any wisdom or suggestions is appreciated.

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[crackedcornish]

the answer is yes, there is a better solution..it's to take those spacers off, and get a SYE and DC driveshaft

 

[A-TJ-J.D.]

the answer is yes, there is a better solution..it's to take those spacers off, and get a SYE and DC driveshaft

Thanks, I'll check this out, sounds expensive.


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[A-TJ-J.D.]

the answer is yes, there is a better solution..it's to take those spacers off, and get a SYE and DC driveshaft

Also, thinking that mine may have a SYE already due to the 44, but I may be wrong.


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[Chris]

There sure is, it's called a SYE. All the info you need is here: The Official SYE (Slip Yoke Eliminator) Thread

 

[A-TJ-J.D.]

There sure is, it's called a SYE. All the info you need is here: The Official SYE (Slip Yoke Eliminator) Thread

Thanks, I was thinking I had the eliminator already, (due to the 44) wondering why the shop put the spacers in if that is the case. suppose I need to crawl under there, which is very easy now.


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[Mike_H]

Just because you have a Dana 44 rear axle, doesn't mean you have an SYE. Only TJ's from the factory that don't have a slip yoke were the rubicons, due to the 241 rock Trac transfer case vs the standard 231j transfer case.

 

[A-TJ-J.D.]

Any easy way to identify the two different transfer cases?


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[A-TJ-J.D.]

Just because you have a Dana 44 rear axle, doesn't mean you have an SYE. Only TJ's from the factory that don't have a slip yoke were the rubicons, due to the 241 rock Trac transfer case vs the standard 231j transfer case.

..and if I understand correctly, the Rubicons did not have the SYE, due to the modified transfer case. Meaning, mine likely has it?


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[Reece]

If you had a sye whoever installed the lift would have not installed the spacers, unless they were clueless I suppose.

Nothing at all wrong with the spacers, they serve a valid purpose.

If you need or want the extra inch or so clearance, get a sye. But get your checkbook out.

 

[Fouledplugs]

..and if I understand correctly, the Rubicons did not have the SYE, due to the modified transfer case. Meaning, mine likely has it?

He just fat fingered it I believe.

The rubicon TJ is the only TJ that has a slip yoke eliminator from the factory. All non-Rubicon TJ's have slip yokes.

To get rid of the pucks you will have to have to install a slip yoke eliminator and cv driveshaft.

Its not that expensive considering what it does. It is a upgrade if you are planning on going off road or having driveline vibrations now that you are lifted. Some Jeeps can flex so much after the lift (not sure on how much lift it takes) the driveshaft can slip out of the transfer case tail. I suggest reading Chris's FAQ on SYE. It will teach you a lot.

 

[Chris]

..and if I understand correctly, the Rubicons did not have the SYE, due to the modified transfer case. Meaning, mine likely has it?


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Rubicon's have a fixed yoke. So if you have a Rubicon, you don't need a SYE. If you have a non-Rubicon model though, you will need a SYE.

 

[JMT]

Another possible option is removing the spacers and seeing if you have vibes. You probably will since the PO added them, but you never know. If you do you can add washers until you get the vibes gone. They will be less visible and it may not need big spacers like that. It may only need 5/8" of drop. You can always add more washers if you still have vibes and just go from there. It's a little work but worth it.

 

[Serbonze]

Thanks, I'll check this out, sounds expensive.


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Around $450 for the SYE kit and CV driveshaft plus labor.

 

[Mike_H]

..and if I understand correctly, the Rubicons did not have the SYE, due to the modified transfer case. Meaning, mine likely has it?


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If you have a non Rubicon, then your jeep came from the factory with a NV231J transfer case. They all have a slip yoke. The slip yoke allows the driveshaft to slide in and out a couple inches, which in turn, allows the rear axle to move up and down.

If you look at where the driveshaft goes in to the transfer case, there should be a cone looking feature coming off the back. The driveshaft should go into the center of the cone. That is the slip yoke.

If you've had a slip yoke eliminater (SYE) kit installed, the driveshaft will have a flange on the end of it, and it will be bolted to a mating flange on the driveshaft. There will be no cone on the end of the transfer case. The driveshaft will also have a boot on it to cover the sliding joint that it needs to account for the rear axle motion.

 

[Sunder]

Sometimes there can be an overwhelming amount of "Jeep jargon" when new to the Jeep world. (SYE, CV, transfer case, etc)

A simpler start to see if you have a SYE is to see if you have a double cardan joint on your driveshaft. (not a guarantee, but a likely indicator).
That means look underneath the Jeep and count the number of "u-joints" on both sides of the drive shaft.
U-joints being the "X" or "+" shaped things that look like ninja stars with round ends.

If you have 2 u-joints on 1 end (and most likely 1, but possibly 2 on the other end) - you most likely have a SYE; or at least have a double cardan joint, which means you probably can raise the skid plate up.
I say "probably", because there may be other issues, like the pinion angle at your axle...which may need to be modified with the control arms.

If you only have 1 u-joint on each end of the driveshaft - then the best solution is to install a SYE kit and CV driveshaft.
(I have no other recommendations actually. A motor mount lift might help it a bit. I had a SYE/CV installed last year and wished I could have afforded it earlier).
Please note that you *MAY* require adjustable control arms for your rear axle when doing the SYE. (You are right - it's not a cheap or simple upgrade.)

Edit: forgot to mention - another option is to take a picture of the driveshaft and post it here. (Also note - my transfer case has a tag on it facing the rear of the Jeep that states what model it is).

 

[Ahoragi]

Pretty simple way to tell is to check and see is your rear shaft is the same as the front. They will be designed the same but the rear is alot shorter.