Skinned knuckle build

New rubber in the sway bar mount brackets front and rear. These cheap easy jobs are extremely rewarding.

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Steering and suspension was the work for last week and that will bring us up to date.

We installed the HD steering kit outlined in the How-To section on the forum. I made the initial mistake of ordering from the parts list in the first post. You need 2X the tie rod ends and the adjuster sleeves for a full replacement which I needed with such old parts to work with. I bought the ball joint separator tool from Amazon and we had that done in an hour.

For suspension I really wanted the biggest lift I could get with springs without needing a SYE. I contemplated the SYE and watched a you tube how to do that but it’s a project for another year, possibly a different Jeep. So parts list is:
  • 2.5” lift Rough Country springs
  • RS5000X shocks
  • crown isolators
  • moog jounce bumpers
  • Rough Country adj front trackbar
  • Pack of 12 hockey pucks
All in about $500. Everything went pretty smoothly on the install with 2 exceptions:
  1. I didn’t have the wrench size to disconnect the front drive shaft so we couldn’t drop the axle far enough to get the front springs in without a spring compressor. I borrowed one from OReilleys, but I hate that tool and asked my daughter to watch from the other end of the garage.

  2. the rear trackbar bracket is on backorder so I had to ratchet strap the rear end back together to align the mounts for the original trackbar. That was quite the engineering problem with all the interfering parts and cable so I ended up routing the ratchet strap over some 2x4 that I laid across the diff and the gas tank.
Original frame clearance was 14” front and 15” back, and it now sits at 17.5” front, 18” back.
We didn’t install bump-stop yet because I wanted to drive it and let it settle first. but I predrilled the pads so I don’t have to remove springs again. The drive is really nice and smooth up to 65mph. I don’t really drive much faster than that. It has 2” of toe in that I need to correct and the steering wandered a little bit not a big problem.

I’m still running the 31’s for now, they have lots of rubber left.

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Ended up with 3” bump stop in the rear today and then finished with steering alignment. Test drive went well and tomorrow we will take it off-road to give those bump stops a work out.
 
That's a lot of bump stop for 31's brah.
I’m a total newb at this stuff so I was definitely conservative. To be honest I didn’t even test the uptravel with the tires on because they are only 31’s. I was only focused on the shock.
 
What shocks do you have? If you are bumping that much for the shocks you need different shocks. For reference, I'm running 2" bumps up front and 1.75" bumps rear for 33's.
 
What shocks do you have? If you are bumping that much for the shocks you need different shocks. For reference, I'm running 2" bumps up front and 1.75" bumps rear for 33's.
Ranchos (2.5” lift). I know I shouldn’t believe everything I read on the internet, but the How To guide on this forum recommends front+1 for rear bump stop “as a good starting point”.

🤷‍♂️
 
Ranchos (2.5” lift). I know I shouldn’t believe everything I read on the internet, but the How To guide on this forum recommends front+1 for rear bump stop “as a good starting point”.

🤷‍♂️

Same shocks I have, (RS55239/RS55241). You are good on the front for those shocks, but you can take an inch off the rear.
 
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We test drove red Jeep this morning and I’m really happy with the lift and steering. Handles great on the dirt and much smoother than my JKU which has a Terraflex lift. No wobbles or shakes at hwy speed either. Dialed in the steering wheel.
I’m adding hand brake back into the list as well as AC and heating. Neither work, the fan just blows outside air. Noticed the driving lights don’t work either.

  • Rebuild steering ✅
  • Rebuild suspension ✅
  • Rebuild brakes ✅
  • 2.5” suspension lift ✅
  • 1.25” body lift
  • 33” tires
  • Investigate and fix engine noise
  • Investigate and fix poor shifting ✅
  • Investigate and fix inoperable transfer case ✅
  • Investigate and fix inoperable e-brake
  • Fix broken brake lights and turn signals ✅
  • Repair front seats - foam and vinyl ✅
  • Replace seat belts ✅
  • Re-key all lock boxes.
  • Investigate and fix AC and heating
  • Investigate and fix driving lights

Cant get video working. Here are a few pics from our drive this morning.
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Well after a lot of business travel over the last few months and surviving the holiday season I was able to pull the heater box this week and replace the heater core.

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No need to remove the steering wheel, just lifted the dash about 6 inches up and out and the box came right out.

Here’s the new core in place with weatherstripping.

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the dash went back together quite easily and I test drove and now have hot air! This was really a pretty simple job but took about 6 hours all in.
 
I noticed while the TJ was sitting parked in the same position for weeks that I was slowly losing coolant from the radiator.

So I pulled the radiator and ordered new Mopar radiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses, etc.
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While I was in there I decided to replace the timing chain. I’m a bit concerned because the sprockets had some rust on them. New chain has probably 3/4 inch less play.
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And look what arrived today!
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The new timing chain made a significant reduction in engine clatter and the engine is running very smooth. I wasn’t sure this was a worthwhile fix because I had read so many opinions that you don’t need to change the timing chain on a 4.0 but there was a lot more play in my old chain.

I also redid the rear brakes all over again with new shoes and drums, and now I have the e-brake working perfectly.

New cooling system is in and passed the first test drive.

  • Rebuild steering ✅
  • Rebuild suspension ✅
  • Rebuild brakes ✅
  • 2.5” suspension lift ✅
  • 1.25” body lift
  • 33” tires
  • Investigate and fix engine noise ✅
  • Investigate and fix poor shifting ✅
  • Investigate and fix inoperable transfer case ✅
  • Investigate and fix inoperable e-brake ✅
  • Fix broken brake lights and turn signals ✅
  • Repair front seats - foam and vinyl ✅
  • Replace seat belts ✅
  • Re-key all lock boxes.
  • Investigate and fix AC and heating ✅
  • Investigate and fix driving lights
 
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Today my daughter and I retorqued all the adapter plates with threadlock for the Gladiator 33/17’s my friend gave me. Well I gave him $200 for 5 brand new wheels and tires but that was more of a thank you gesture.

They are not my first choice of wheel and tire but the price was right and I don’t mind them at all. We used a 1.25” adapter and only needed to adjust the steering stop on the passenger side by a few turns for some slight interference with the driver side control arm.

As luck would have it, the fedex guy came a day early with our new soft top. Pavement Ends by Bestop Sprint in Black Diamond for $350. So we fit that today also and I love it. Although it is kind enough noisy on the freeway flapping against the speaker bar.

Today’s photo’s.

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  • Rebuild steering ✅
  • Rebuild suspension ✅
  • Rebuild brakes ✅
  • 2.5” suspension lift ✅
  • 33” tires ✅
  • Investigate and fix engine noise ✅
  • Investigate and fix poor shifting ✅
  • Investigate and fix inoperable transfer case ✅
  • Investigate and fix inoperable e-brake ✅
  • Fix broken brake lights and turn signals ✅
  • Repair front seats - foam and vinyl ✅
  • Replace seat belts ✅
  • Investigate and fix AC and heating ✅
  • Investigate and fix driving lights
  • Tailgate spare wheel solution
  • Repaint fenders
  • Thinking about re-spray and clear coat
  • Helicoil stripped threads in timing chain cover
  • 1.25” body lift
  • Re-key all lock boxes.
 
So I did finish my fender flares. While removing them I did destroy a few rusted rivnuts so I decided to drill them all out and replace all the fasteners with M5 ss rivnuts. There are a few threads about this on this forum. It was pretty easy and now I am addicted to rivnuts.

I also bought a cheap spray gun that runs off my air compressor and sprayed the flares with truck bed liner. I really like the result.

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This weekend I pulled the radiator again to get the timing chain cover off and install helicoils in the cover for the 4 front oil pan bolts. It was very nerve wracking work but worked just fine. Getting the timing chain cover back on with all the gaskets lined up with holes is painful. But after a short test drive this morning I don’t have a single drop of oil weeping from the cover.