Slight clicking sound

WSS said:
Stick a small magnet to your drain pan bolt. Run for a little bit and the inspect the bolt for metal. Lead, aluminum and other non mag material will not show but any magnetic debri may be a indicator.
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I replaced the oil 2 days ago. That was after the sound started. There was no metallic on the magnet that is on the drain plug at that time
 
So I guess we're starting to look at something like a possible cracked piston skirt or a sticking valve/lifter.
If you can pull the valve cover off and slowly turn the crankshaft to check that all the valves are opening and closing fully, and the pushrod are all the same length and also moving the same height. If you replaced the lifters after this started we can probably rule them out. Though it's a bad idea to change a lifter without changing the camshaft, that wouldn't be the problem here.
 
Just a thought, but you said you had just changed the oil. Did your clicking start after your oil change? and if so, what type of oil did you use?

Some people have had issues using synthetic oil due to it being "thinner" than regular oils, even at the correct weight.
 
WSS said:
A diagnostic stethoscope might help. I’ve used a screwdriver to locate strange noises with good results but you gotta be careful not to get wrapped up in something. Touch the screwdriver to a suspected area and “listen” to the handle end of the screwdriver, move it around till you home in in the noise.

it does sound louder at the front. It’s possible the water pump is bad or broke a piece off, etc.. if you have a IR thermometer, you can check areas to see if you are over/under heated indifferent areas.
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cut off broom stick works too
 
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Modoc Guy said:
Just a thought, but you said you had just changed the oil. Did your clicking start after your oil change? and if so, what type of oil did you use?

Some people have had issues using synthetic oil due to it being "thinner" than regular oils, even at the correct weight.
Click to expand...
No the sound started prior. That is what made me change the oil to add oil Stabilizer
 
So yesterday while doing a test drive. Still trying to figure out where the sound was. Believe we threw a rod and cracked the block. Loud bang then big cloud of smoke and now a hole through the oil pan draining all the coolant and oil. Now off to do an engine swap
 
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Medicstrong222 said:
So yesterday while doing a test drive. Still trying to figure out where the sound was. Believe we threw a rod and cracked the block. Loud bang then big cloud of smoke and now a hole through the oil pan draining all the coolant and oil. Now off to do an engine swap
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What a bummer!
Time to start working OT shifts to pay for the upcoming!
 
Well, the ray of sunshine is: you have every excuse to install a professionally built stroker, a V8 or at the very least and awesome remanufactured engine with a warranty.
 
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I'm a sucker for restoring back to original. I went with a professional rebuild 2.5 with 100,000 mile warranty. I know it's not the 4.0 but that little engine can assure climb.
 
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Wise choice, get back on the road.
If you need your wheels, you can't afford to be in project hell,
Replacing the whole drivetrain, Electronics, mounting, exhaust, emissions, eta.,eta.
And don't forget throwing C-notes down, like your bailing water on a sinking rowboat.
 
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Got the TJ back yesterday. New engines is beautiful. It's a Jasper rebuild. It came with a 100,000 mile warranty. I had them do the install Kit. that gave me new hoses water pump thermostat serpentine belt and all the other fixings. Those parts came with us another three year warranty. So far so good
 
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