Snow wheeling season prep

Mumblewood

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Oct 9, 2019
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Renton Wa
So with the snow wheelin season upon us, just curious about what changes if any people do to their rigs for deep powder Jeepin

I personally don’t do too much, I try to remove as much weight as possible, like taking out extra parts and tools that I know I won’t need, pack a shovel and some hand warmers.

I’m thinking about picking up a set of some 36-37 Iroks on 15” rims since they are hard to beat in deep snow but probably won’t
 
Prepping for most any situation is similar. Check all fluids, belts, pressures, remove unnecessary junk from the vehicle, then add all necessary junk back in. Go with a buddy and be sure someone knows where and when you are going and returning. Plus extra longjohns.👍
 
Consider picking up a set (or two) of tire chains. Some are compatible with snow and mud, and thus are dual purpose. Only issue is you’re limited to about 30 mph when you have them installed.

They make a big difference in starting, cornering, and stopping on mountain roads over typical all-season tires, and especially over tires like all-terrains and mud terrains.

Look for ones with automatic tensioners, unless you plan to keep them for mud as well. Otherwise use the rubber spider tighteners or the cam.
 
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Consider picking up a set (or two) of tire chains. Some are compatible with snow and mud, and thus are dual purpose. Only issue is you’re limited to about 30 mph when you have them installed.

They make a big difference in starting, cornering, and stopping on mountain roads over typical all-season tires, and especially over tires like all-terrains and mud terrains.

Look for ones with automatic tensioners, unless you plan to keep them for mud as well. Otherwise use the rubber spider tighteners or the cam.
Do you have any recommended place that sells these in our larger tire sizes?
 
Prepping for most any situation is similar. Check all fluids, belts, pressures, remove unnecessary junk from the vehicle, then add all necessary junk back in. Go with a buddy and be sure someone knows where and when you are going and returning. Plus extra longjohns.👍

X2 to this (y)
 
Do you have any recommended place that sells these in our larger tire sizes?
Etrailer.com sells a lot of tire chains in various sizes.
Also check out the following manufacturers:
  • Pewag Chain (Glacier Chain is a US distributor of Pewag)
  • Tirechain.com
  • Qualitychaincorp.com
  • Peerlesschain.com
Most of those manufacturers have chains that go into at least 35-37” tires, usually larger. Only TireChain.com, Pewag, and Quality Chain seem to offer the diamond pattern chains for 35” or larger, but all companies offer the ladder style chains, some with some very beefy links.

Diamond pattern chains are better on the road/highway especially on situations where sideslip can be encountered. The ladder style chains are best for deep snow, off road, and deep mud.

Start by chaining the rear axle, and then the front if additional traction is desired. Chaining the front without the rear can create an oversteer issue. Chaining both axles is best.

When looking at chains, compare the link size. Larger links provide more aggressive traction and more durability, but also a rougher ride on hard surfaces. Larger links also require more clearance on the top and sides of the tires. Make sure your tire has sufficient clearance throughout the range of expected suspension travel not only on top, but on the inside sidewall of the tire. You don’t want chains cutting through your control arms or brake lines.
 
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The only change I make is to run a lower air pressure than non-snow wheeling, and adjust my driving style some.
 
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The only change I make is to run a lower air pressure than non-snow wheeling, and adjust my driving style some.
What pressures do you run normal wheeling vs snow wheelin?

I'm in snow country now and need your years of wisdom!

I'm also running a lunchbox up front. Almost everyone on the forums says this is a BAD idea in show. Some here and there say you can adjust your driving style. Do you have any recommendations on this issue?
 
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I'm also running a lunchbox up front. Almost everyone on the forums says this is a BAD idea in show. Some here and there say you can adjust your driving style. Do you have any recommendations on this issue?
Lunchbox up front is a bad idea in snow when on the road. (Like in the city or on the highway).
That's primarily because they engage/disengage "unpredictably" and can cause you to quickly spinout or oversteer, etc. The problem with this increases the faster you're going or if there is traffic you're afraid of hitting.

I don't think it's as much of an issue when offroading.
You're typically not going at a high enough speed or worried about sliding into the next lane unexpectedly.
 
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What pressures do you run normal wheeling vs snow wheelin?

I'm in snow country now and need your years of wisdom!

I'm also running a lunchbox up front. Almost everyone on the forums says this is a BAD idea in show. Some here and there say you can adjust your driving style. Do you have any recommendations on this issue?
I usually run 10psi for normal wheeling, but in the winter usually between 5-10, depending on the conditions.

Tons of guys here run lunchbox lockers in the front, and I haven't really heard any complain about them while off-road. On the road they say they can cause weird handling if in 4wd, but apparently are invisible if in 2wd. Both my front and rear lockers are usually engaged all the time for snow wheeling, especially if I'm breaking trail, which I usually am.
 
In snow I will run 4-6 psi, beadlocks though.

I will change my driving style off road depending on the snow type, if I can get on top it’s usually pretty slow as to not break traction and sink, if not high RPM assaults may get the job done. It can vary from day to day or sometimes corner to corner if the suns out.
 
Lunchbox up front is a bad idea in snow when on the road. (Like in the city or on the highway).
That's primarily because they engage/disengage "unpredictably" and can cause you to quickly spinout or oversteer, etc. The problem with this increases the faster you're going or if there is traffic you're afraid of hitting.

I don't think it's as much of an issue when offroading.
You're typically not going at a high enough speed or worried about sliding into the next lane unexpectedly.
I guess I'm going to hit a parking lot once the white stuff comes, put it in 4wd H and see what happens, try different speeds, turning, stopping, etc...I don't really want to remove it and try to put in a selectable right away. Too much money and too much time. I could use my rear locker in 2wd since it's an Eaton E-Locker, but on snow and ice roads I'm not sure that would really help much
 
I guess I'm going to hit a parking lot once the white stuff comes, put it in 4wd H and see what happens, try different speeds, turning, stopping, etc...I don't really want to remove it and try to put in a selectable right away. Too much money and too much time. I could use my rear locker in 2wd since it's an Eaton E-Locker, but on snow and ice roads I'm not sure that would really help much

That is your best bet. Get used to the quirks, when they happen and what to do. I stayed away from a lunchbox up front for this very reason.
 
That is your best bet. Get used to the quirks, when they happen and what to do. I stayed away from a lunchbox up front for this very reason.
Are you saying practice with the lunchbox is my best bet or switch out to a selectable or drive in 2wd with my rear locker on?
 
Are you saying practice with the lunchbox is my best bet or switch out to a selectable or drive in 2wd with my rear locker on?

I would practice in a snow covered parking lot with whatever you intend to use in the snow. If it were me I would become familiar with the driving quirks many report that come with a lunch box in the snow. Hell, I would try practicing with every combo. I had so there would be no surprises while on the road.