Sound system advice

[GTboosted]

Here is a good calculator to help find a sub to match an amp.

https://www.ctsounds.com/pages/subwoofer-wiring

You will want to make sure that the specs match. If you get the wrong impedance rating on a sub it may cause the amp to go into protect mode or even cause damage to the amp or the sub.


Easiest way for you would be a compact powered sub then you wouldn't need to worry about matching them up. With a small powered sub you should be fine without an additional amp.

 

[isu2815]

Here is a good calculator to help find a sub to match an amp.

https://www.ctsounds.com/pages/subwoofer-wiring

You will want to make sure that the specs match. If you get the wrong impedance rating on a sub it may cause the amp to go into protect mode or even cause damage to the amp or the sub.


Easiest way for you would be a compact powered sub then you wouldn't need to worry about matching them up. With a small powered sub you should be fine without an additional amp.

Sorry...one more question. So either of the headunits that I listed will have enough to power the speakers? Or the powered sub will provide some power to the speakers?

 

[GTboosted]

Ask away no worries.

Yes either will power them better than stock. The Sony you first mentioned is a better option if you do not plan on adding a amplifier for them. I just dont like the look of the Sony.

The powered sub is standalone and will not power the speakers.

 

[isu2815]

Ask away no worries.

Yes either will power them better than stock. The Sony you first mentioned is a better option if you do not plan on adding a amplifier for them. I just dont like the look of the Sony.

The powered sub is standalone and will not power the speakers.

I've moved away from the Sony since being introduced to the Chinese one that looks stock and the Clarion one. So would adding the small amp for the speakers improve their sound? I'm leaning towards the Chinese one and potentially adding whichever small amp to match the brand of the powered sub.

 

[GTboosted]

Yeah was looking at prices and my thought was that the Clarion headunit plus DB polk speakers and a small amp for them will look and sound a lot better than the Sony with the MM speakers plus it would have be cheaper.

You definitely dont need an amp though because these aftermarket headunits have a little more power and better sound processing. But they can handle more and will sound better when power by small amp.

What you can do is get them without an amp and see how you like them when you add a sub. You can always add an amp later.

Check out the calculator if not just get a pre built powered one for convenience.

 

[JMT]

If I get a powered sub...is that little amp not necessary? Will the speakers be adequately powered? Again, I have little-to-no car audio knowledge.

A powered sub has an amplifier within the same enclosure as the speaker. Most of the 8” subs have dimensions about 9.5”x14”. They will fit in the center console, under the rear seat, or, of course, in the trunk area. The amp will only send power to the subwoofer. Your dash speakers and those in a sound bar would need to run off the power from the head unit. This is exactly the way I run mine.

 

[JMT]

Also, when getting dash and soundbar speakers, you want speakers with a 90 or greater dB. This is a sensitivity rating. Translation: you can send less power to them and get a greater amount of sound. Lots of speakers are in teh 80-89 range. This will not produce the sound you are hoping for out of those speakers. The Polk DB’s are 90+

 

[isu2815]

Yeah was looking at prices and my thought was that the Clarion headunit plus DB polk speakers and a small amp for them will look and sound a lot better than the Sony with the MM speakers plus it would have be cheaper.

You definitely dont need an amp though because these aftermarket headunits have a little more power and better sound processing. But they can handle more and will sound better when power by small amp.

What you can do is get them without an amp and see how you like them when you add a sub. You can always add an amp later.

Check out the calculator if not just get a pre built powered one for convenience.

I looked at the calculator...to be honest I didn't understand it.

 

[isu2815]

Also, when getting dash and soundbar speakers, you want speakers with a 90 or greater dB. This is a sensitivity rating. Translation: you can send less power to them and get a greater amount of sound. Lots of speakers are in teh 80-89 range. This will not produce the sound you are hoping for out of those speakers. The Polk DB’s are 90+

Thanks! I'm going with the Chinese headunit. I'll probably start out with that, the speakers, and the powered sub. I'll see how it goes and then add an small amp under the dash if I think it needs more.

 

[JMT]

Here is a good calculator to help find a sub to match an amp.

https://www.ctsounds.com/pages/subwoofer-wiring

You will want to make sure that the specs match. If you get the wrong impedance rating on a sub it may cause the amp to go into protect mode or even cause damage to the amp or the sub.


Easiest way for you would be a compact powered sub then you wouldn't need to worry about matching them up. With a small powered sub you should be fine without an additional amp.

Great calculator! Thanks for sharing. That really simplifies things for wiring

 

[mde8965]

I am going with the Sony XAV-AX100. I got it when Crutchfield was having it on sale for $349 a week or two ago. I looked hard at the other Sony with 45w per channel but really wanted the screen and a nice interface for apple car play. Plus I’m installing a reverse camera at the same time. I upgraded to the Polk DB series speakers a few months ago.

I figure if I feel like I need an amp later I will get a 45 or 50w x 4 mini amp. The clarion one is my front runner.

Jerry is totally on point in this thread. Just because a speaker is rated at 50w or 100w RMS that does not mean you need to put that many watts through them. What destroys a speaker is running them at volume where the amp (be that the head units amp or external) is clipping/distorting. Hell my home theater speakers are rated for 500w RMS a piece. My amp is 100w per channel. And of that, for my 20x16 room, at very loud (near reference volume) I am maybe using 20w per channel (transient peaks excluded). Now put that in context of the 5x7’ space in your TJ. Under normal top up driving you won’t need more than maybe 7w per channel unless you want your ears to ring. Top down and interstate is the only place you might need 20w or perhaps a bit more.

Heck my current pioneer has 14w per channel. And it is plenty loud even with the top down. But I have to turn the stock sub way down because it starts distorting at loud volume due to the underpowered stock amp. And lack of cone area on the 6.5” sub. Subwoofers are what needs the wattage. Sounds over 100hz take very little power to be very loud. 20w per channel into 4 co-axials combined with 150w into a quality sub or subs will sound 90% as good as a $2000 system given the acoustic limitations of an automobile (especially a Jeep)

 

[skrelnik]

Well, I have modified my plan with all of these recommendations and what I found in a previous thread by badlieutenant and his head unit. Again all advice is much appreciated.

Headunit
M201 Jeep Wrangler Media SatNav 2003-06
Clarion M508 Marine AM/FM digital media receiver with Bluetooth and USB/AUX/MP3

Speakers
Polk DB652 UltraMarine Dynamic Balance Coaxial Speakers, 6.5"
Polk Audio DB522 DB+ Series 5.25" Coaxial Speakers

Sub/Amp combo
Compact powered sub (Kicker, Alpine, JBL, Pioneer, Rockford Fosgate) How do I choose?
Matching small amp to go with sub - will this be enough to power the speakers? The amp should power itself, since it is powered, correct?

If you are going with that Clarion head unit you should purchase from Crutchfield since they give you the install gear. So for the same cost you get the same head unit and free install gear.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-n43J3GMEd8m/p_020M508/Clarion-M508.html

Do you want an amplifier to power the subwoofer, or the amplifier to power both the subwoofer and speakers. The amplifier you posted is for the subwoofer only, it's a one channel. You need a 5 channel amplifier for the entire system.

This one has a good combination of what you need, power, size (fitment for under the dash) and value.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_530PN5640D/Soundstream-Picasso-Nano-PN5-640D.html?tp=35808

You should also consider an amplifier install kit, comes with a ton of parts you will need.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_60718_NVX-XAPK8.html

 

[skrelnik]

Thanks! I'm going with the Chinese headunit. I'll probably start out with that, the speakers, and the powered sub. I'll see how it goes and then add an small amp under the dash if I think it needs more.

If there is one take away from this thread you should NOT buy a Chinese head unit, and purchase a reputable name brand considering they are cheap. Kenwood, Alpine, Pioneer, Clarion. The Chinese ones have a high probability of failure, no customer support, and when your audio doesn't sound right oh well...Don't forget the head units install gear, Crutchfield gives it away for free.

You should go back to Chris' post and literally copy his build.

 

[Dianic]

I have done several audio installs in my cars over the years so I consider myself to have some understanding.

I just installed two days ago a set of 5,25 mids in the stock locations, tweeters on the dash, 6,5 on the sound bars and a small powered sub under the rear seat. The speakers are being run by the amp of the head unit a Sony XAV AX100.

The result is great. Staging is a bit more to the rear than I would want but the front mids have a downward angle so not much we can do there. I have the car topless and although it won’t blow the doors off, the sound is good and clear when driving. That is all I wanted.

Since I am in Europe brands of speakers are of no importance. I don’t have polks here although I wish I did.

I fabricated the kick panels for the fronts with plyboard. I got the design from this drum somewhere.

Good luck.
Nick

 

[cruzcode]

Well this thread has been an interesting one.

I’ll share a few things...

I replaced the front speakers like many of you, with 5.25” adapter plates and JL Audio C2-525X Evolution Speakers. I placed a small amount of Poly-Fill behind them to reduce acoustic reflection off of the vents, etc., behind them.

Then, because I added the Poison Spyder spreader bar kit, I cut my sound bar into two pieces, capped the ends, and used body seam sealer to seal the enclosures. Finished it off by placing a small amount of Poly-Fill in each of those new Factory speaker “pods”, and then installed JL Audio C2-650X Evolution Speakers. Those are all run off of a Sony head unit, which provides enough clean power to these.

Next, I’ve mounted two higher-end WakeBoard Tower Marine Speakers to the Rear bar on the Roll-Cage (from the Poison Spyder spreader kit), and need to wire in a Marine JL Audio sealed amp for those.

We’ll see how it all turns out, and I’ll keep you guys posted.

As far a debate goes...

Btw, having Clean power in an Amp or head unit, and quality speakers that you don’t maximize, is a good idea. Every amplifier reaches a point where it begins to send distorted power to the speakers. If you have “75-100 watts of power”, and you only need 40-50, that isn’t a bad thing. The last 20% (give or take) of most amplifiers or head Units, is where the distortion begins. So if I want 50 Watts of Clean power, without distortion, I’ll buy a head unit or amp that can give me 75+ watts, knowing that I’ll only “use” 50, all of which will be clean, as it is not in that last 20% zone of the 75 watts.

Good debate.

Have a good one gents.

RC


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