Spark plug removal?

MikeO

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 22, 2017
Messages
157
Location
Hallsville, Texas
So my 98 4.0L is hard starting lately (has new battery), thought I'd replace plugs.
I've done it before on other vehicles.
Question 1: Anything not straight forward about this?
Question 2: Might it be a good idea to put a drop of Liquid Wrench on them before removal?
Thanks
 
You should not need liquid wrench on them to get them out and there's nothing not straight forward about replacing them. I'd make sure to hand-thread them in before placing the socket wrench on them, you don't want to strip the threads. I use a 3/8" drive ratchet driver to replace mine, a half-inch ratchet wrench can more easily strip threads in this particular job.

Three good battery recommendations for you '98... The Autolite AP-985 or Champion 3034 are both platinum tipped plugs good for about 100k miles. The iridium-tipped Autolite XP-985 is good for at least 200k miles & what I installed into my TJ 8-9 years ago. All three are great plugs. NGK is ok too, don't go with Bosch which don't run well in our Jeep engines. Avoid gimmick plugs like Pulsar or E-3.

If you also replace your distributor cap & rotor, try to find a set that have brass contacts which last longer than the usual aluminum contacts on cheap distributors & rotors.

Last suggestion if you also replace your ignition wiring... avoid any so-called "performance" ignition wiring that claims "low-resistance". Resistance is actually added on purpose (yes!) to ignition wiring to eliminate static noise & interference to the computer. Low-resistance wiring is actually cheaper to make & just causes problems like static noise in AM and CB radios. The bottom line is the OEM ignition wiring is best.
 
You should not need liquid wrench on them to get them out and there's nothing not straight forward about replacing them. I'd make sure to hand-thread them in before placing the socket wrench on them, you don't want to strip the threads. I use a 3/8" drive ratchet driver to replace mine, a half-inch ratchet wrench can more easily strip threads in this particular job.

Three good battery recommendations for you '98... The Autolite AP-985 or Champion 3034 are both platinum tipped plugs good for about 100k miles. The iridium-tipped Autolite XP-985 is good for at least 200k miles & what I installed into my TJ 8-9 years ago. All three are great plugs. NGK is ok too, don't go with Bosch which don't run well in our Jeep engines. Avoid gimmick plugs like Pulsar or E-3.

If you also replace your distributor cap & rotor, try to find a set that have brass contacts which last longer than the usual aluminum contacts on cheap distributors & rotors.

Last suggestion if you also replace your ignition wiring... avoid any so-called "performance" ignition wiring that claims "low-resistance". Resistance is actually added on purpose (yes!) to ignition wiring to eliminate static noise & interference to the computer. Low-resistance wiring is actually cheaper to make & just causes problems like static noise in AM and CB radios. The bottom line is the OEM ignition wiring is best.

Thanks Jerry. Great information. Very helpful.
 
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Thanks Jerry. Great information. Very helpful.
You should not need liquid wrench on them to get them out and there's nothing not straight forward about replacing them. I'd make sure to hand-thread them in before placing the socket wrench on them, you don't want to strip the threads. I use a 3/8" drive ratchet driver to replace mine, a half-inch ratchet wrench can more easily strip threads in this particular job.

Three good battery recommendations for you '98... The Autolite AP-985 or Champion 3034 are both platinum tipped plugs good for about 100k miles. The iridium-tipped Autolite XP-985 is good for at least 200k miles & what I installed into my TJ 8-9 years ago. All three are great plugs. NGK is ok too, don't go with Bosch which don't run well in our Jeep engines. Avoid gimmick plugs like Pulsar or E-3.

If you also replace your distributor cap & rotor, try to find a set that have brass contacts which last longer than the usual aluminum contacts on cheap distributors & rotors.

Last suggestion if you also replace your ignition wiring... avoid any so-called "performance" ignition wiring that claims "low-resistance". Resistance is actually added on purpose (yes!) to ignition wiring to eliminate static noise & interference to the computer. Low-resistance wiring is actually cheaper to make & just causes problems like static noise in AM and CB radios. The bottom line is the OEM ignition wiring is best.
Oh, one more thing... ON the 98 Sport, would you gap the plugs at .35 or .04?
 
One suggestion I would have...put a thin coat of anti-sieze on the threads of the new plugs for yourself or the next guy:). It also helps to thread them in nicely. I just threw in the Autolite AP-985's about a month ago. It was an easy job. Cheap plugs and they work great.
 
Oh, one more thing... ON the 98 Sport, would you gap the plugs at .35 or .04?
I'd probably stick with the factory .035 spec for your conventional ignition system.

If you decide to apply a dab of antiseize to the plug threads, make sure none of it gets onto the electrode.
 
Hi Mike0 I just purchased a 2003 TJ with 106K, I watched a coupled youtube clips. It appeared quite easy, so I tackled it. I used the iridium-tipped Autolite XP-985 and checked the gap; all 6 were at .035. I placed copper anti-seised on the plug threads, and finger tighten them into the cylinders, ensuring that I did not alter the gap. Use a dielectric grease on the inside of each boot and on the tip of the spark plugs. The 2003 does not have your traditional distrubitor, and had the new plugs in and the coil rail back on in less than 45 min. Jerry B is our Jeep Guru, I have learn a wealth of info about jeeps from Jerry and Chris! For the small cost of a new distributor, rotor, and brand-new 8 MM wires. IMHO it's is well worth just doing a complete tune-up if you have the time.
 
I don't want to piss in the community pool but I just tossed a set of XP985's in the trash with maybe 12,000mi on them. Ran great for 6 or 8 months. Then I noticed a slight miss so I checked for leaky wires at night - nothing. Pull the plugs (4-cyl) and 3 of them had the little ground button missing effectively opening the gap. My ignition is the stock coil-type. Maybe just a bad batch...
 
I don't want to piss in the community pool but I just tossed a set of XP985's in the trash with maybe 12,000mi on them. Ran great for 6 or 8 months. Then I noticed a slight miss so I checked for leaky wires at night - nothing. Pull the plugs (4-cyl) and 3 of them had the little ground button missing effectively opening the gap. My ignition is the stock coil-type. Maybe just a bad batch...
Dang, Thanks for the heads up! Did the Check Engine light come on showing the cyl miss code or did you feel the difference in the engine?