Starting issue

1Blacktj

1Blacktj

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
May 29, 2018
Messages
225
Location
Blowing Rock, NC, USA
So I am trying to troubleshoot my problem with starting. Not every time I start my Jeep but sometimes, it is harder to crank. I put a new battery in a little over two years ago and just recently changed my spark plugs. Was wondering what else could be going bad to cause this issue?
 
I have same/similar issue. Pretty sure it's the check valve on top of the fuel tank (sorry if this isn't technically correct) based on my research. Just haven't had the time to drop tank and replace. Also not sure if it's possible to replace the check valve itself or if you have to replace the entire pump assembly.

Any advice from others would, of course, be appreciated.
 
jmm45 said:
I have same/similar issue. Pretty sure it's the check valve on top of the fuel tank (sorry if this isn't technically correct) based on my research. Just haven't had the time to drop tank and replace. Also not sure if it's possible to replace the check valve itself or if you have to replace the entire pump assembly.

Any advice from others would, of course, be appreciated.
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hm have not heard of this issue. I need to drop my gas tank to finish installing my bumper so It would be convenient haha.
 
1Blacktj said:
yea it turns slower than normal
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It's kinda hard to decipher what you're saying. So the starter motor is cranking the engine more slowly than usual before the engine finally starts?

If so, do these two things in this order... first, physically REMOVE both battery connectors and use a wire battery brush to clean the battery posts and the inside of the connectors. A $4 battery brush has male and female wire brushes to make it quick work. No, don't just look at the connectors and think they look ok. They can look clean but not be between the post and connector. Make sure both connectors are TIGHT when you reinstall them, tight enough that you can't move either connector with considerable hand pressure. There's an easy/fast/free fix if a connector can't be tightened enough with it nut and bolt to get it tight enough around the battery post. If you can't get it tight, ask me for the fix.

If the starter motor is still slower than it should be after thoroughly cleaning both connectors, remove the battery and take it to a battery shop to have them perform a "load test" on the battery. A load test measures the battery voltage after placing a heavy load on it for no less than 10 seconds. A properly conducted "load test" is the only way to know the battery's true health which can't be checked with a simple volt meter.

Know too that a bad check valve in the fuel pump will not cause the starter motor to crank the engine more slowly. A bad check valve in the fuel pump can cause the engine to need to be cranked longer before the engine will start but it won't affect the starter motor's cranking speed.

Cranking and starting are two different things, those two terms are not interchangeable.
 
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Jerry Bransford said:
It's kinda hard to decipher what you're saying. So the starter motor is cranking the engine more slowly than usual before the engine finally starts?

If so, do these two things in this order... first, physically REMOVE both battery connectors and use a wire battery brush to clean the battery posts and the inside of the connectors. A $4 battery brush has male and female wire brushes to make it quick work. No, don't just look at the connectors and think they look ok. They can look clean but not be between the post and connector. Make sure both connectors are TIGHT when you reinstall them, tight enough that you can't move either connector with considerable hand pressure. There's an easy/fast/free fix if a connector can't be tightened enough with it nut and bolt to get it tight enough around the battery post. If you can't get it tight, ask me for the fix.

If the starter motor is still slower than it should be after thoroughly cleaning both connectors, remove the battery and take it to a battery shop to have them perform a "load test" on the battery. A load test measures the battery voltage after placing a heavy load on it for no less than 10 seconds. A properly conducted "load test" is the only way to know the battery's true health which can't be checked with a simple volt meter.
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Ill try and clean the battery terminals when I get home. Only time will tell if it works or not so if you do not hear back from me, it worked.
 
KCsTJ said:
Yah it's an unwritten rule. If you consult forum advice, you must reciprocate with how things go on your end. Its an even trade off cuz everybody learns.
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I meant because its not a problem that happens very often and if it does fix itself, it will be awhile before I can tell. I'm going to clean the battery terminals tonight.
 
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I decided to go today to get my battery tested and the battery is perfectly fine. So the next thing I was going to check was the starter. Any other things I should look for?
 
Jerry Bransford said:
Know too that a bad check valve in the fuel pump will not cause the starter motor to crank the engine more slowly. A bad check valve in the fuel pump can cause the engine to need to be cranked longer before the engine will start but it won't affect the starter motor's cranking speed.

Cranking and starting are two different things, those two terms are not interchangeable.
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This sounds like what mine is doing. When it’s hot like if I stop for gas or run into a store it cranks right up like normal. If It’s cold or been sitting a couple hours where it’s warm it has a delay in cranking and takes 5 seconds or so of turning over before it fires up. Does this sound like the check valve issue to you?
 
1Blacktj said:
I decided to go today to get my battery tested and the battery is perfectly fine. So the next thing I was going to check was the starter. Any other things I should look for?
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When you said originally that sometimes it is harder to crank, does that mean that sometimes it cranks over at a slower or more delayed speed?
 
Xposure said:
This sounds like what mine is doing. When it’s hot like if I stop for gas or run into a store it cranks right up like normal. If It’s cold or been sitting a couple hours where it’s warm it has a delay in cranking and takes 5 seconds or so of turning over before it fires up. Does this sound like the check valve issue to you?
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@1Blacktj One way to check in your case, when the engine is cold or has been sitting awhile..
Turn the key to the on position, let the fuel pump start and run, key off and back on 2 or 3 times to pump fuel to the engine.
Now, if it starts quickly, and you can repeat this consistently, the check valve is prob ably leaking.
 
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Xposure said:
This sounds like what mine is doing. When it’s hot like if I stop for gas or run into a store it cranks right up like normal. If It’s cold or been sitting a couple hours where it’s warm it has a delay in cranking and takes 5 seconds or so of turning over before it fires up. Does this sound like the check valve issue to you?
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Absolutely. To shorten the start time after the engine hasn't been running for a while, cycle the ignition switch on-off-on 6-8 times before turning it to start. The fuel pump automatically shuts itself off 1.8 seconds if the engine hasn't started so pause 2 seconds in the 'on' position so it will run long enough each time to get fuel back up to the engine. When the check valve leaks it lets all the fuel in the engine's fuel rail drain back to the gas tank. The longer length of time the engine takes to start with a leaky check valve is how long it takes the fuel pump to get fuel back up to the engine
 
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