Starting issues

[Ken G Ford]

Having issues 1997 Jeep Wrangler4.0 with Automatic.

Stopped on the way home this evening and after leaving Auto zone, jeep would not start up. Dash lights up like normal, but when turning the keep all the way starter does not energize...not even a solenoid clicking sound.

I jumped the small lug on solenoid directly to + Battery Terminal with keep turned and it fired right up.

Immediately thought the Ignition activator pin was broken so bought a new one and after jumping the solenoid again drove to replace it.

Got home and pulled ignition all apart but when I pulled the old ignition activator pin out I noticed that it was the same length as new one so not broken....

Returned the new switch activator......

Then re attached the switch (Plastic housing with electrical contacts) itself back into place since I noticed the T10 ground screw, and with a screw driver turned the switch and the starter would not engage.

Really seemed like it was drawing down the power......

Went and bought a new switch and installed and the jeep started right up again.....

short time later I tried starting it again and once again....nothing.

After several more attempts started up but then noticed my back up lights on steady while in Park?

Checked the #2 40 Amp Fuse visually and checked with a meter and no issues.

Replaced the starter Relay with a new relay and still nothing.....

Jumped across starter relay 30 and 87 and starter engaged as normal and engine fired up.

Seems like I may have a wiring issue but does any one know where to start checking?

I did notice the tie wrap that hold the wiring harness near the right side of the bell housing was broken and harness was laying against hot exhaust pipe but went through the wires and did not see any melted insulation or exposed wires and tired it back up away from the exhaust.

Measured the battery at 13.7 Volts......

does any one have any ideas on where to trouble shoot next?

 

[Ken G Ford]

Quick update: I purchased a new Ignition Actuator Pin just to be 110% sure the ignition assy is working correctly.

Made sure to align the actuator per the enclosed instructions as I inserted it into the Ignition Switch assy. actuator slipped in the the two tabs easily locked it into place. I then inserted both assy into the cast metal housing underneath the steering column after making sure it was also aligned per the instruction sheet. A little harder since you have to look from the console towards the drivers door while looking underneath the steering column. There are two marks. An arrow and a marked line that must be in alignment to allow the key tumbler assy to slide in easily which it did. Ran through all the positions by turning the key and all feels smooth and dash lights, etc light up accordingly but when key is turned all the way, there is still zero volts on the small lug on the starter solenoid.

Starter still does not turn over but I can remove the Starter Relay and jump 30 to 87 and starter comes to life immediately .

I need to find an electrical drawing showing where the small 12VDC wire on the solenoid comes from so I can start for checking voltage.

Does any one knwo if there is an online schematic of the starter sytem?

 

[Ken G Ford]

Schematic of the starter sytem for an automatic ?

I am thinking the 12vdc to starter solenoid comes through the Stater Relay but no idea of the wiring of the terminals on the relay itself.

 

[Ken G Ford]

Hmm.... would not a bad Neutral Position switch on the 32RH cause no voltage to the Starter Relay ?

I believe the Neutral Position switch has three wires going to it. Purple with Blk stripe, Purple, and Green with Yellow stripe.....

Now if I could figure out which wires to jump to confirm if the switch is or is not bad......

 

[Old_Crow]

Hmm.... would not a bad Neutral Position switch on the 32RH cause no voltage to the Starter Relay ?

I believe the Neutral Position switch has three wires going to it. Purple with Blk stripe, Purple, and Green with Yellow stripe.....

Now if I could figure out which wires to jump to confirm if the switch is or is not bad......

I think you're on to it here. Clue was back up lights on in Park position. Have you tried starting it in neutral? If that doesn't work, try moving the shifter slightly while turning the key to start and seeing if you can move it into a position where it cranks.
I had an old Rambler where you used to have to hold up on the column mounted shift lever to get it to crank. A slight adjustment and it was fine. Maybe you'll get lucky.

 

[Ken G Ford]

I am gonna stop by Oriellys and pick up a new Neutral Position sensor on my way home from work today but before installing will try your suggestion above. In the meantime I just jumped pin 30 to 87 on the starter relay to start the jeep in order to get to work

 

[Ken G Ford]

Update! Fixed it! turns out it was the Park / Neutral Position switch on my 32RH.

I replaced it several months ago when I put a steel deep sump on the 32RH Transmission and the screw's that it came with were a little to long. The screw under the sensor pushed up against it and caused an ATF leak that was difficult to trouble shoot. Once I identified the screw pusing against the sensor, I shortened the tip of the bolt with a grinder and installed new sensor just to be safe. It being new it was the last thing that I thought failed but as soon as I pulled it off, I knew it was broke because the brass contact tip was not protruding through the white spring loaded pad on switch. Iistalled new one and engine fired up without issue.