Starting to collect parts for my 5.3 swap

hamrickac

hamrickac

TJ Enthusiast
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West Virginia
I’m starting to collect parts for my 2.5 to 5.3 swap. I am not going to swap the Dana 35 in the rear, instead just do the super35 kit from revolution. I’ve got a 5.3 with 120k picked out that I’ll have mildly rebuilt before I drop it in.

Planning on running the ax15 trans but am not having any luck at the pick and pull yards in the area. Anyone have any advice on where to find one or that has a 4.0 that they’re parting out would be awesome.

Anyone done this swap so I can get advice. I’ve read several write ups but I’d still like to be as prepared possible.
 
hamrickac said:
I’m starting to collect parts for my 2.5 to 5.3 swap. I am not going to swap the Dana 35 in the rear, instead just do the super35 kit from revolution. I’ve got a 5.3 with 120k picked out that I’ll have mildly rebuilt before I drop it in.

Planning on running the ax15 trans but am not having any luck at the pick and pull yards in the area. Anyone have any advice on where to find one or that has a 4.0 that they’re parting out would be awesome.

Anyone done this swap so I can get advice. I’ve read several write ups but I’d still like to be as prepared possible.
Click to expand...

Advanced Adapters sells brand new AX-15s for $1500.

Order a brand new one. The transmission isn't a place I would skip out and buy one from wrecking yard. Did that once and I'll never do it again. Turns out the reverse gear was almost blown.
 
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Im fairly certain you want a new front drive. LS1's had the tightest IIRC. Holley now makes a mid mount that is beautiful. You need to move your A/C compressor up, that's going to cost you a pretty penny.
Dave's Customs sells a nice LS Swap engine mount kit. And they are built for LS engines with driver side drop front axles.
Who is doing your harness?
Gen 3? Gen 4,Gen 5?

I believe the stock TJ pump pumps enough fuel for the LS. Might want to research that topic.

Novak has a solution so you can reuse most of your dash without too much trouble.

Good luck, it can get pretty expensive. especially if your LS is not a Gen III.

Also, I spend a lot of time of Holley's website for LS swap stuff. They offer a nice LS swap oil pan now.

Who is doing your harness and computer work?
 
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Fouledplugs said:
Im fairly certain you want a new front drive. LS1's had the tightest IIRC. Holley now makes a mid mount that is beautiful. You need to move your A/C compressor up, that's going to cost you a pretty penny.
Dave's Customs sells a nice LS Swap engine mount kit. And they are built for LS engines with driver side drop front axles.
Who is doing your harness?
Gen 3? Gen 4,Gen 5?

I believe the stock TJ pump pumps enough fuel for the LS. Might want to research that topic.

Novak has a solution so you can reuse most of your dash without too much trouble.

Good luck, it can get pretty expensive. especially if your LS is not a Gen III.

Also, I spend a lot of time of Holley's website for LS swap stuff. They offer a nice LS swap oil pan now.

Who is doing your harness and computer work?
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Careful what you say here with your “tech”
Car water pump won’t work with truck intakes.

And there are much cheaper pans to swap in vs the holley. Look into the hummer pans.

And why is a gen 3 cheaper to swap than a gen 4? I disagree with your tech. No money difference in swapping a gen 4.
Also gen 4s are much easier especially when it comes to tuning from my little experience. I’m not expert, but I’ve tuned a couple ls’s with hp tuners and an online walkthrough. Gen 3s pcm are much slower and they don’t do as well as a gen 4 on a SD tune where you eliminate the maf which most do in a Jeep due to intake turbulence from short intake runs or 90 degree bends and the nature a maf used to get its reading to the pcm.

Good luck. Research is out there, you just have to read.
 
MallCrawlOnTons said:
And why is a gen 3 cheaper to swap than a gen 4? I disagree with your tech. No money difference in swapping a gen 4.
Also gen 4s are much easier especially when it comes to tuning from my little experience.
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Just starting on my LS parts gathering myself. Looking around eBay, The pullout complete Gen 3's are cheaper than the Gen 4's....So.....

You mentioned a Gen 4 having a faster computer, unbeknownst to you, a Gen 4 computer can be used with a Gen 3 LS. That of course incurs cost, hypocritical to my point above. But I am sure you get the point.

I like and would prefer a Gen 3 over a Gen 4 based off simplicity. The gen 4 requires a more expensive ECU, yes it is faster, but how much faster? Do you know how much faster and how being fast benefits the guy behind the wheel. The Gen 4 are also more expensive. And as mentioned above, if the Gen 4 computer is so much better, one can use a Gen 4 computer on a Gen 3.

I mentioned simplicity, the gen 3 can use a drive by cable TB. The Gen 4 uses a throttle by wire, while an improvement, I have the understanding that there are some challenges to mounting the drive by wire peddle in the Jeep. Also, more expensive than a drive my cable setup, backing up my first statement that Gen 3 swaps are a bit cheaper than Gen 4's. Do I know how much cheaper? No.

The Gen 4 has VVT and DOD, leading to more complications. One could easily argue if you want to use VVT and DOD in a LS swap then pay for the Gen 4 and utilize it, other wise, and argument could be presented that you are wasting money.

When you tuned the LS you vaguely mentioned, was it a Gen 4 with VVT and DOD? Or was it deleted from the tune and removed from the LS? If so, what was the advantage to going Gen 4 if not using the VVT and DOD? With a reminder that Gen 4 computers can be used on Gen 3 swaps...

Also, I, "READ," that the TBSS intake is the highest flowing intake? is this bad that I only, "READ" that and didn't actually rent an engine dyno and do the testing myself, in person, with a lab coat and clipboard?

You discredit my post by simply saying I didn't experience said subject, instead I read it about it. I get it. But I would love to be in the room when your (one day..?) future wife is pregnant and the labor and delivery specialist walks into the patient room with you and your wife and its a male doctor. You're over there in the corner thinking, "This man has never had a baby, what could he know about pregnancy and giving birth!?" :ROFLMAO:
 
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Fouledplugs said:
Just starting on my LS parts gathering myself. Looking around eBay, The pullout complete Gen 3's are cheaper than the Gen 4's....So.....

You mentioned a Gen 4 having a faster computer, unbeknownst to you, a Gen 4 computer can be used with a Gen 3 LS. That of course incurs cost, hypocritical to my point above. But I am sure you get the point.

I like and would prefer a Gen 3 over a Gen 4 based off simplicity. The gen 4 requires a more expensive ECU, yes it is faster, but how much faster? Do you know how much faster and how being fast benefits the guy behind the wheel. The Gen 4 are also more expensive. And as mentioned above, if the Gen 4 computer is so much better, one can use a Gen 4 computer on a Gen 3.

I mentioned simplicity, the gen 3 can use a drive by cable TB. The Gen 4 uses a throttle by wire, while an improvement, I have the understanding that there are some challenges to mounting the drive by wire peddle in the Jeep. Also, more expensive than a drive my cable setup, backing up my first statement that Gen 3 swaps are a bit cheaper than Gen 4's. Do I know how much cheaper? No.

The Gen 4 has VVT and DOD, leading to more complications. One could easily argue if you want to use VVT and DOD in a LS swap then pay for the Gen 4 and utilize it, other wise, and argument could be presented that you are wasting money.

When you tuned the LS you vaguely mentioned, was it a Gen 4 with VVT and DOD? Or was it deleted from the tune and removed from the LS? If so, what was the advantage to going Gen 4 if not using the VVT and DOD? With a reminder that Gen 4 computers can be used on Gen 3 swaps...

Also, I, "READ," that the TBSS intake is the highest flowing intake? is this bad that I only, "READ" that and didn't actually rent an engine dyno and do the testing myself, in person, with a lab coat and clipboard?

You discredit my post by simply saying I didn't experience said subject, instead I read it about it. I get it. But I would love to be in the room when your (one day..?) future wife is pregnant and the labor and delivery specialist walks into the patient room with you and your wife and its a male doctor. You're over there in the corner thinking, "This man has never had a baby, what could he know about pregnancy and giving birth!?" :ROFLMAO:
Click to expand...
You didn’t mention your hiccup with the car water pump and truck intake...

And yes they may be more expensive onebwy. But at the scrap and pull they ain’t.
I did tune a gen 4 and gen 3. Gen 4 is way easier to tune in my opinion with the walkthrough I used. I tuned a friends truck with gen4 58c wheel and 4x cam sensor.(overload for you) who had one of his liters fail. One of the 4 in case you thought they all were dod lifters.(overload) we just snagged a dod eliminator kit offline and tuned his truck. By the way the tuning of the gen 4 ecu is nice cause you can tune fuel cut into the rev limiter, try that with a gen3.(overload). Anyways I ain’t going to keep up the pee measuring contest. But you are right, you could run a gen 4 ecu on a gen 3 but why? You talk about money cause you ain’t got none? You’d need crazy amounts of re-wiring of the harness and a adapters for the cam sensor and knock sensor wiring.(pricey) not only that, your 24c wheel ain’t gonna worn unless you get an aftermarket ecu(pricey) or the rare gen 4 ecu for 24x crank.(overload)

good luck with your reading and no hands on experience.
 
MallCrawlOnTons said:
You didn’t mention your hiccup with the car water pump and truck intake...

And yes they may be more expensive onebwy. But at the scrap and pull they ain’t.
I did tune a gen 4 and gen 3. Gen 4 is way easier to tune in my opinion with the walkthrough I used. I tuned a friends truck with gen4 58c wheel and 4x cam sensor.(overload for you) who had one of his liters fail. One of the 4 in case you thought they all were dod lifters.(overload) we just snagged a dod eliminator kit offline and tuned his truck. By the way the tuning of the gen 4 ecu is nice cause you can tune fuel cut into the rev limiter, try that with a gen3.(overload). Anyways I ain’t going to keep up the pee measuring contest. But you are right, you could run a gen 4 ecu on a gen 3 but why? You talk about money cause you ain’t got none? You’d need crazy amounts of re-wiring of the harness and a adapters for the cam sensor and knock sensor wiring.(pricey) not only that, your 24c wheel ain’t gonna worn unless you get an aftermarket ecu(pricey) or the rare gen 4 ecu for 24x crank.(overload)

good luck with your reading and no hands on experience.
Click to expand...
Can not compute. Overload. 😵
 
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Fouledplugs said:
Because one would need a new intake with the Holley mid mount setup? Im confused? Or are you talking about the LS1 front kit?
Click to expand...
See below.

Fouledplugs said:
That of course incurs cost, hypocritical to my point above. But I am sure you get the point..
Click to expand...
Hmm thought we were talking cost and expenses and your talking about a a $2k accessory drive...
 
MallCrawlOnTons said:
See below.


Hmm thought we were talking cost and expenses and your talking about a a $2k accessory drive...
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Re-read it. When first mentioned in post #4 I said “that’s going to cost you a pretty penny.” Its more a want than a need.

Does one not need to move the compressor up to reutilize A/C? Any pics of the swap you performed? Or maybe the front drive?

Did the Gen 3 and Gen 4 you tuned utilize the A/C? Was it in the factory vortec truck location or was it moved?

Ive read that it must be moved to re use. Any clarification on this?
 
Fouledplugs said:
Re-read it. When first mentioned in post #4 I said “that’s going to cost you a pretty penny.” Its more a want than a need.

Does one not need to move the compressor up to reutilize A/C? Any pics of the swap you performed? Or maybe the front drive?

Did the Gen 3 and Gen 4 you tuned utilize the A/C? Was it in the factory vortec truck location or was it moved?

Ive read that it must be moved to re use. Any clarification on this?
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Never said It was in a Jeep. It was just a truck motor in a truck. My friend had a dod lifter fail and we just replaced the lifters, cam and oil pump then tuned out the afm and loaded a better fuel map. Took maybe 4 hours total.

Just keep reading, you have more to learn. Make sure when you recommend something, it works.
 
MallCrawlOnTons said:
Almost?
Click to expand...

Not a Jeep, but an automatic Chevy I had had an "almost bad" reverse. Half the time I couldn't back out of parking spots so I always had to park where I could pull out forward. There was a trick I learned which was to rev and dump it into reverse from drive. Worked some times. Trans blew 1 week after I sold it.
 
Donor vehicle. It’s not much to look at but been sent a video of the motor running. Hopefully I get a chance Sunday to go take a look at in person and maybe Jew them down a little. 2005 Silverado lm7 5.3. 120k frame rust makes it unusable but perfect for a cheap motor 😂

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so I got a better deal on my motor. A guy I work with had a 5.3 with full harness, ecm, pcm, etc. It’s being rebuilt now. I’ve purchased the super35 kit from revolution but haven’t purchased a carrier yet. I’m wanting to go with an e-locker but heard Eaton has been having issues right now and am hoping that by the time I have all parts collected that they’ll have their quality control issue solved. I’ll be purchasing a new ax15 from Novak when I get a little closer. (Correct me if I’m wrong but the ax15 won’t bolt to a 2.5 without an adapter)

I’m trying to think of parts that I can collect and put on the Jeep as I’m preparing for the swap just to minimize down time of the Jeep. The transfer case will be reused so I was thinking about going ahead and getting a sye and driveshaft but I believe the driveshaft would be a different length after the swap so that’s probably not going to work. Maybe adjustable control arms front and rear? Any other options or opinions on what parts I can go ahead and have out of the way?

Also debating on what control arms to get. I know the general consensus is Currie-savvy but I’ve looked into core and they seem pretty solid. Anyone run these and enjoy them? If not I’ll be going with savvy aluminum.
 
Ha
hamrickac said:
so I got a better deal on my motor. A guy I work with had a 5.3 with full harness, ecm, pcm, etc. It’s being rebuilt now. I’ve purchased the super35 kit from revolution but haven’t purchased a carrier yet. I’m wanting to go with an e-locker but heard Eaton has been having issues right now and am hoping that by the time I have all parts collected that they’ll have their quality control issue solved. I’ll be purchasing a new ax15 from Novak when I get a little closer. (Correct me if I’m wrong but the ax15 won’t bolt to a 2.5 without an adapter)

I’m trying to think of parts that I can collect and put on the Jeep as I’m preparing for the swap just to minimize down time of the Jeep. The transfer case will be reused so I was thinking about going ahead and getting a sye and driveshaft but I believe the driveshaft would be a different length after the swap so that’s probably not going to work. Maybe adjustable control arms front and rear? Any other options or opinions on what parts I can go ahead and have out of the way?

Also debating on what control arms to get. I know the general consensus is Currie-savvy but I’ve looked into core and they seem pretty solid. Anyone run these and enjoy them? If not I’ll be going with savvy aluminum.
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Have you got a plan for your dash? Cant recall if the factory gauges will work with the Vortec swap.

Will you be utilizing a body lift with the Vortec swap? You could install that in the mean time.

I’d also suggest looking into better brakes. BMB has a popular following. If it were me, Id throw the cash and extra time at a hydro boost brake setup.

have you already pulled the Jeep engine and removed the motor mounts?
 
I’ve read that the 4cyl dash will work with a 5.3 except the tach.

1.25 body lift and 3”suspension lift already installed.

2.5 is still in and still driving which is why I’m trying to do parts that I can run until I’m 100% ready
 
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