Steering adjustments after lift install

[JKLNHYD]

Long post ahead. But I am super thorough in an effort to get the answer I am looking for.

I'm installing a 3 1/2" Super-flex kit on our 2001 TJ and I have completed (almost) the entire front end. I still need to bleed the brakes and align it. Which leads me to my question(s)...

After centering the axle under the jeep, my measurements have it sitting within 1/16" side to side. I'm going to take that as good unless someone suggests otherwise.

I did not disconnect any steering components other than the track bar during the install. Once the Jeep was sitting on it's own, (on jack stands under the axle) the steering was quite far off. Less than a quarter turn (roughly 45 degrees).

I centered the steering wheel in the cab and then proceeded to adjust the drag link to get the wheels as close to straight as I believe them to be. Now to simply adjust the toe-in, correct? Yeah....not so much.

I replaced all the steering components about 4 months ago and the Jeep tracked nice and straight afterwards. During that install, I never did confirm that the axle was in fact, centered. There was a 2" budget boost from the PO recently installed(no control arms, no new track bar, just springs and shocks) After trying to dial in the toe I feel like I'm going to have to disconnect the driver side tie rod end from the spindle to get the passenger side straight in alignment with the passenger rear tires, adjust the tie rod to set the driver side straight with the driver rear tire, and then, adjust the toe-in to 1/8" . So after all that, my question is, is it feasible that the new height has thrown out all my steering adjustments and I basically need to start from the pitman arm and work all the way down to the tie rods to get it perfect?

In my mind, I just expected to need to adjust the drag link to get back to straight but it's proving to need a full reset. All I can think of is the new track bar length and recentering of the axle has compounded things.

Thoughts?

 

[Steel City 06]

Center the axle, then correct the toe, then center the steering wheel with the drag link in that order. Changing toe changes steering wheel center. It may also be a good idea to do caster/pinion angle and wheelbase before toe and center.

With a lift, you may need to extend the tie rod and the drag link a significant amount past stock. Make sure you have at least the diameter of the rod's worth of thread engagement left on all components.

 

[Steel City 06]

Once you get the wheelbase, axle center, and caster roughly dialed in and the toe set, you can test drive it to tune the steering wheel center and caster. As long as the total toe is correct, it doesn't really matter if the steering wheel isn't centered. If it's really far off, like past 90 degrees when moving straight, then you might need to worry about damaging the clockspring.

 

[JKLNHYD]

Thanks for the info @Steel City 06 ! I will take another look at it all tonight and work in the manner you suggested. Thinking back, I think I exaggerated how far off my steering wheel was. It was probably about 30-45 degrees off from straight. My pinion angle, measured at the milled flat spot on either side of the pumpkin was about 5.5 degrees which I believe to be a pretty good starting point. I can dial that in, if needed, after I drive it and see if there are any vibrations. Thanks again!

 

[Goatman]

After a lift it changes the axle position and also the steering. The lift pulls up on the drag king throwing that off. And because the tie rod is attached to the drag link that throws the toe off also. Axle is plenty well centered.
Now must get steering wheel re-centered. If you don't get the steering wheel dead nutz centered the steering will always feel floaty and vague. There is some type of valving in the steering box that needs to be centered to feel right.
Now get the toe in set. With the toe off you can't be sure what tire is the one tracking on the road. 1/16-1/8 inch toe in. Every Jeep likes a different setting. As long as you are there then good enough for now.
Now you can get the drag link dialed in. Get the steering wheel back to perfect 12 o'clock. I suppose you could just skip the drag link and do toe in first, then go and do the drag link second without the initial drag setting, but I found the need for a short test drive between each setting move starting with the toe setting and if the drag link is off (making the steering wheel off) nothing feels right. I just kept a big piece of cardboard with me and test drive a few hundred feet, stop, toss the cardboard under with the wrenches, make an adjustment, and repeat. Works for back roads only.