Steering Stabilizer Setup

SouthernTJ2000

SouthernTJ2000

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Mar 19, 2024
Messages
148
Location
Tomball, TX
So I'm pretty new to the Jeep world. I've got a '00 with a 4" RC Suspension lift. From what I gathered from the PO, the lift kit is at least 10 years old, probably older. I'm in the process of getting my list together of suspension items to change. I plan to replace all control arms with either Savvy or Core 4x4. When it comes to the steering stabilizer setup, I'm clueless. So I'd like to get y'alls advice on what I should do here. Do I just keep what is there and replace the shocks? Or is there a better setup? The majority of my wheeling will be trails here in the Texas area, or up in Oklahoma. I'd love to get out to Colorado, Utah, etc. However I don't see that happening for at least a year+. I do like climbing on things, flex, and off camber stuff. I do not plan to do any rock climbing and I'm more of the slow and steady guy, and less of a mash the gas guy. I might add, the Jeep does see some DD duty that includes highway/freeway exposure. I also would drive the Jeep to any of the parks I go to, the closest is about an hour from me, with most being at least 3+ hours away. Thanks.

Jeep SS 1.jpg


Jeep SS 2.jpg


Jeep SS 3.jpg
 
You don't need two steering stabilizers. That's a bandaid which might mask a problem, until it doesn't. If it's not causing problems, you can leave it alone for now, and eventually change it back to the stock configuration. A cheap Monroe is fine, but you'll need the bolt for the drag link.

Is that a drop pitman arm? (Can only see the end of it.) That should be replaced with a stock pitman arm, especially if you have bump steer.
 
OldBuzzard said:
You don't need two steering stabilizers. That's a bandaid which might mask a problem, until it doesn't. If it's not causing problems, you can leave it alone for now, and eventually change it back to the stock configuration. A cheap Monroe is fine, but you'll need the bolt for the drag link.

Is that a drop pitman arm? (Can only see the end of it.) That should be replaced with a stock pitman arm, especially if you have bump steer.
Click to expand...

So from my research the dual shock thing is an option/setup that RC offered, and still does. It drives straight down the road with no issues at all and I'm often on the fwy/hwy doing 70mph. I'll have to check on the pitman arm. So basically what your saying is, if it ain't broke, don't fix it?
 
Where you are may get into a lot of mud, I would want a beefier steering. I put a Currie Currectlync and a single steering damper, I got Rancho just to match, but a Monroe would be just as good.

I’ve driven without a steering stabilizer, and not noticed a difference, so I don’t think the 2 are at all nexeaaary, it’s juts more stuff that can hit other things.

That looks like the end of a drop pitman arm to me, but it’s a limited picture. I would 100% get a stock and get rid of that. It can cause bump steer when you hit a bump the wheel jumps. Strange how they include the DPA that causes it, and 2 stabilizers to try and mask it! Crazy.

I have Savvy CA’s all around, wet high quality. Have Core on my sons JK and they are quality as well.
 
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cpwolf said:
Where you are may get into a lot of mud, I would want a beefier steering. I put a Currie Currectlync and a single steering damper, I got Rancho just to match, but a Monroe would be just as good.

I’ve driven without a steering stabilizer, and not noticed a difference, so I don’t think the 2 are at all nexeaaary, it’s juts more stuff that can hit other things.

That looks like the end of a drop pitman arm to me, but it’s a limited picture. I would 100% get a stock and get rid of that. It can cause bump steer when you hit a bump the wheel jumps. Strange how they include the DPA that causes it, and 2 stabilizers to try and mask it! Crazy.

I have Savvy CA’s all around, wet high quality. Have Core on my sons JK and they are quality as well.
Click to expand...

I'll post some pictures of the pitman arm when I get home. So bear with me. If I keep this setup, can I run a stock pitman arm with it? Like I said, I'm clueless when it comes to the steering setup.
 
SouthernTJ2000 said:
I'll post some pictures of the pitman arm when I get home. So bear with me. If I keep this setup, can I run a stock pitman arm with it? Like I said, I'm clueless when it comes to the steering setup.
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I would think so, yes, and you can leave the stabilizer as is if it’s not hitting anything.

Sounds like you don’t have any Driveability issues, so leave it.
 
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SouthernTJ2000 said:
I'll post some pictures of the pitman arm when I get home. So bear with me. If I keep this setup, can I run a stock pitman arm with it? Like I said, I'm clueless when it comes to the steering setup.
Click to expand...

You have a dropped pitman arm and a dropped trackbar mount(they are visible in the pics if you are familiar with that garbage). A stock pitman arm and a currie or jks trackbar would be where I'd go.

As oldbuzzard said, cheap monroe stabilizer is all you need

I've also been slowly removing the P.O's rc lift a few pieces at a time as i identify the best parts.the drop bracket on my trackbar kept coming loose after wheeling and would give me severe,crap my pants death wobble. Currie for me and no issues since
 
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TheBoogieman said:
RC 4" lifts usually include a dpa and track bar drop bracket. If yours has those, I'd remove them and the dual stabilizer and go back to stock.
p.s. Your bump stops are missing from the cup too.
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10-4.

What does DPA stand for? I'm almost certain it has the drop bracket. Its the bracket that's bolted onto the driver side of the frame? (I'll post pictures when I get home)

Yeah, I'm missing all my bump stops. They are on the short list to get ordered ASAP.
 
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I bought a 03' Sahara with an RC lift installed. It rode like crap and wouldn't stay in one lane on the road. During the test drive I crawled underneath to see why (RC lift with dpa/dropped pitman arm). I got the seller to knock $500 off the price for that and another $500 because the AC/Heat only worked on high ($12 resistor). He said his mechanic wanted $500 to fix the AC issue. :rolleyes:
p.s. I miss that Jeep.

SAHARA NEW.jpg
 
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SouthernTJ2000 said:
10-4.

What does DPA stand for? I'm almost certain it has the drop bracket. Its the bracket that's bolted onto the driver side of the frame? (I'll post pictures when I get home)

Yeah, I'm missing all my bump stops. They are on the short list to get ordered ASAP.
Click to expand...

Dpa=dropped pitman arm. You definitely have one

Btw the pitman and trackbar need changed at the same time to avoid bumpsteer
 
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SouthernTJ2000 said:
@TheBoogieman @Rickyd

So can I get this kit and a stock pitman arm and be good?

https://www.1aauto.com/1997-06-jeep...on-kit-trq-psa63433/i/1asfk06132/1180802/2000
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You can't use the stock trackbar from that kit and the only balljoints you want to run are factory spicers.

What size tires? A zj tie rod upgrade might be fine for you at 33's and down. Otherwise currie steering.
Thread 'ZJ Tie Rod Conversion' https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/zj-tie-rod-conversion.2373/
 
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SouthernTJ2000 said:
@TheBoogieman @Rickyd

So can I get this kit and a stock pitman arm and be good?

https://www.1aauto.com/1997-06-jeep...on-kit-trq-psa63433/i/1asfk06132/1180802/2000
Click to expand...

Yeah, this is kind of the rabbit hole you run down when the PO did some things that aren't ideal. Looking at this, there are just a couple of things that come with the RC that others mention, but with your lift height, you can't go back to stock.

1. The Drop Pitman Arm (DPA) and the accompanying drop track bar bracket. There is no need for both of them to be on there. If $ constraint, you can leave those on together, and for what you're doing, probably be okay for now. Personally, I'd get both of them off.

2. When you remove the drop track bar mount, and for a 4" lift, you should have an adjustable track bar. I put Currie on, but lots of folks like JKS.

3. The steering, there are a few common upgrades, beefier Currie Currectlync, then the mid tier ZJ Upgrade. The ZJ is the Cherokee of the time, and they use the same steering ZJ and our TJ's. I had this on, and traded out for the Currectlync.

The ZJ you really only need the tie rod and the tie rod end. and the adjusting sleeve to connect the TRE and Tie Rod. There is a thread that attached above, read through to understand. The Tie Rod is beefier, but the drag link is the same.
 
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SouthernTJ2000 said:
I'm currently on 33's, however I'm about to re-gear to 4.88 for possibly going to 35's in the future....maybe.
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Ha, then you're going all the way down the rabbit hole, ha. Definitely I'd get the ZJ steering upgrade or Currectlync if you're going to 35's.

There's a great thread "So you want to go to 35's" ha, and I spent it all. 4.88 and the 6 speed etc.
 
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cpwolf said:
Ha, then you're going all the way down the rabbit hole, ha.
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Yes indeed. My buddy, who has a '16 Rubicon said..."get a Jeep, it'll be fun. Then you can use the Pathfinder ('01 4x4 LE) as a DD and wheel the Jeep." Little did I know I was buying the life size equivalent of a Lego kit....lol. Gears are arriving today, Eaton Trutrac is sitting in the garage, Spartan Locker for the front is on order, as are the random tools I need to do the gear install. I'll probably end up ordering the upgraded axles for the 35 as well. I will say this, this thing is so fun and easy to work on!!!
 
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