Steering stabilizer tapered bolt problem

Gage

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Original poster
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Aug 4, 2020
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North Carolina
Hello everyone I have been trying to remove the tapered bolt on my steering stabilizer for 3 days now. I finally went and got a pit arm puller but for some reason it will not fit around my steering stabilizer please help.


PS I've went through a bottle of PB blaster and I have been hammering it this entire time

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Hello everyone I have been trying to remove the tapered bolt on my steering stabilizer for 3 days now. I finally went and got a pit arm puller but for some reason it will not fit around my steering stabilizer please help.


PS I've went through a bottle of PB blaster and I have been hammering it this entire time

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Best way is to remove the draglink, set the end of the tapered bolt over a hefty tube and drive it out that way. Or you can try shock loading it by putting a back up hammer on one side and smacking on the other.
 
Do not pound directly on the bolt, do not pass Go, do not collect $200. Tapered bolts can be difficult to remove but there is a method used by many experienced mechanics.

Use a BFH (big fucking hammer) to give the SIDE (!!!!!!!) of the drag link several mighty whacks which should squirt it right out. If it doesn't pop out, put your big-boy pants on and try it again.

Here's a similar situation removing the tapered stud from the steering knuckle. Notice where the hammer's force is being applied... to the SIDE of location where the stud passes through.

BFH-Knocking-Tierod-Loose.jpg
 
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Do not pound directly on the bolt, do not pass Go, do not collect $200. Tapered bolts can be difficult to remove but there is a method used by many experienced mechanics.

Use a BFH (big fucking hammer) to give the SIDE (!!!!!!!) of the drag link several mighty whacks which should squirt it right out. If it doesn't pop out, put your big-boy pants on and try it again.

Here's a similar situation removing the tapered stud from the steering knuckle. Notice where the hammer's force is being applied... to the SIDE of location where the stud passes through.

View attachment 245127
That's what I have been doing for the last 3 days lmao
 
I had success with my impact hammer, have you tried one?

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That's what I have been doing for the last 3 days lmao
Spray a bit of Kroil, Liquid Wrench, or Break-Free where it can work its way into the joint and give it some time to work then try it again.

Or do as Blaine suggested and remove it entirely and place it into a vise so it can't flex to absorb the hammer blow when you use the BFH again.
 
I'll try removing it entirely like blaine said and update afterwards
Set it over a tube so you are driving the bolt out into the tube and it will come right out. Well, provided the end of the tube is against something solid to support it. Otherwise you just have a fancy tent stake.
 
Do not pound directly on the bolt, do not pass Go, do not collect $200. Tapered bolts can be difficult to remove but there is a method used by many experienced mechanics.

Use a BFH (big fucking hammer) to give the SIDE (!!!!!!!) of the drag link several mighty whacks which should squirt it right out. If it doesn't pop out, put your big-boy pants on and try it again.

Here's a similar situation removing the tapered stud from the steering knuckle. Notice where the hammer's force is being applied... to the SIDE of location where the stud passes through.

View attachment 245127
I need to teach you how to use a big center punch one of these days.
 
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Okay so I'm almost gotten it off I have my friend with me he's the one holding the torch I'm hammering down on a pickle fork while he's hammering with a makeshift punch from a broken pit man arm remover and that's only in progress we've made will do a longer post after we get it out
 
Old post revival:
I just replaced my 97 TJ steering stabilizer, and mine didn't have a tapered bolt. The tie rod had threads all the way thru. I was able to unscrew the bolt from the top. The included tapered bolt would not slide into the threaded portion (it would screw in leaving no thread for the bolt on the lower end). I just used the original threaded bolt to reassemble with a washer in between the stabilizer and mount point, and the shank of the bolt was perfect size for the rubber bushing. Maybe aftermarket replacement by PO?