Still can't remove rear driveshaft differential yoke

[ratpunk3]

Hi, longtime reader and first time poster here.

I'm replacing the pinion seal of the Dana 35 rear differential on my 2003 Wrangler X, and I've already removed the 4 bolts on the driveshaft, but it won't budge from there.

I've read several threads about it already, and I've tried spraying it with Free-All, letting it settle overnight, and banging it all over with a hammer for a while, but it still doesn't move. It also doesn't compress into the transfer case or get any leverage whatsoever. In fact, it doesn't turn, bend, or move at all as I have the Jeep in neutral and 2-High with the parking brake off and tires chocked. I tried starting it up and driving forward it a little, but the drive shaft is still just stuck there.

Here's some photos of it if anyone could offer further advice. Thanks!

 

[Daryl]

Stick a pry bar in here, it’ll come out.

 

[ratpunk3]

Stick a pry bar in here, it’ll come out.

I'll get one and try it. Just making sure, too, that I should be able pry it from the differential yolk without having to free it up at the transfer case end first? (I'm not removing it entirely, just getting to the pinion seal.) Does it need to be able to slide/compress back into the transfer case while I pry it off for leverage?

It just feels so tight and locked in place right now that I want to be certain I have it positioned right before I pry it. Thanks

 

[Daryl]

I'll get one and try it. Just making sure, too, that I should be able pry it from the differential yolk without having to free it up at the transfer case end first? (I'm not removing it entirely, just getting to the pinion seal.) Does it need to be able to slide/compress back into the transfer case while I pry it off for leverage?

It just feels so tight and locked in place right now that I want to be certain I have it positioned right before I pry it. Thanks

If the slip yoke is that tight you should remove the driveshaft and service it.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

I'll get one and try it. Just making sure, too, that I should be able pry it from the differential yolk without having to free it up at the transfer case end first? (I'm not removing it entirely, just getting to the pinion seal.) Does it need to be able to slide/compress back into the transfer case while I pry it off for leverage?

It just feels so tight and locked in place right now that I want to be certain I have it positioned right before I pry it. Thanks

The transfer case output is a externally splined shaft that slides into an internally splined shaft at the front of the driveshaft. It's got extra space to telescope in either direction as the suspension flexes. Just pry and the driveshaft will slide toward the case just fine.

 

[ratpunk3]

If the slip yoke is that tight you should remove the driveshaft and service it.

The transfer case output is a externally splined shaft that slides into an internally splined shaft at the front of the driveshaft. It's got extra space to telescope in either direction as the suspension flexes. Just pry and the driveshaft will slide toward the case just fine.

Thanks, guys. I tried wedging a long screwdriver in there already and it didn't work, so I'll go get a pry bar and give it a try.

With the output mentioned, should I ever be able to slide that rear driveshaft in and out of the transfer case by hand? I tried it without the parking brake engaged with the Jeep in neutral and in 1st gear, and I also tried putting the transfer case into neutral and wasn't able to move or turn the rear shaft at all. Is this normal?

 

[freedom_in_4low]

Thanks, guys. I tried wedging a long screwdriver in there already and it didn't work, so I'll go get a pry bar and give it a try.

With the output mentioned, should I ever be able to slide that rear driveshaft in and out of the transfer case by hand? I tried it without the parking brake engaged with the Jeep in neutral and in 1st gear, and I also tried putting the transfer case into neutral and wasn't able to move or turn the rear shaft at all. Is this normal?

if your u-joint is rusted into the yoke and not coming out, you won't be able to move it, but yes, once the axle end of the driveshaft is free you'll be able to move it in and out.

With the tires off the ground, parking brake released, and the case or trans in neutral, you should be able to turn it by hand.

 

[ratpunk3]

if your u-joint is rusted into the yoke and not coming out, you won't be able to move it, but yes, once the axle end of the driveshaft is free you'll be able to move it in and out.

With the tires off the ground, parking brake released, and the case or trans in neutral, you should be able to turn it by hand.

Great, thanks for the info.

Thank you all for the helpful suggestions. I was just able to pry it off from the yoke with a tougher bar than the screwdriver I had originally tried to use. Now that it's off at the diff end, it does slip in and out of the transfer case as it should.

 

[MutantNinjaTJ]

The drive shaft slip joint may be as rusted as the rest of the drive shaft is. Pull the boot down and take a look. You might consider looking for a new shaft. Try jacking the rear up as far as you can, block the frame and let the rear end come down and see if that gives it enough room to pull the joint apart.

 

[ratpunk3]

I had carefully loosened one of the metal clamps and looked under the rubber boot, and it was actually rust-free under it. It slid in and out of the transfer case easily after I managed to pry it from the axle.

I'm currently at the step of removing the old pinion seal. I managed to use a screwdriver to pry all the rubber from the center of it out, but chiseling the outer metal part of it with a screwdriver and hammer is not bringing good results so far.

 

[Daryl]

I had carefully loosened one of the metal clamps and looked under the rubber boot, and it was actually rust-free under it. It slid in and out of the transfer case easily after I managed to pry it from the axle.

I'm currently at the step of removing the old pinion seal. I managed to use a screwdriver to pry all the rubber from the center of it out, but chiseling the outer metal part of it with a screwdriver and hammer is not bringing good results so far.

Get one of these. That seal will pop right out.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002SRCKG/?tag=wranglerorg-20