Suggestions on how to remove seized upper rear shock bolts

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bruceco

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Dec 9, 2017
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150
Location
Woodstock, ON, Canada
My 2000 tj was in bad shape when I got it and had to restructure the lower frame because of rust here in ontario canada. At the time I never worried about the shocks and have had it on the road 3 summers now. I know when I go after the shocks the rears will break off for sure. I now there are a lot of ways on the internet to tackle it.I remember a few years ago someone tackling it from the top.He opened the floor above the shock towers and did it from above . He cut 3 sides and bent the tabs up. Anyone have a link to that. It is not a cherry tj so I don't mind doing it that way. Your thoughts.
Bruce
 
At least start with multiple drenchings of the upper bolts & above the bracket to the nuts with a GOOD penetrant like Kroil or Liquid Wrench. I'm talking several drenchings over several days to let it soak in before trying to remove any of the bolts. Don't waste your time with PB-Blaster which is not much better than WD-40 which doesn't even claim to be a penetrant.

If that doesn't do the trick, heat is your next step. I'm talking torch on the bolts, even a propane torch will produce the heat needed. Getting the bolts darned near cherry red is sometimes needed. Enough heat will often loosen seized bolts so dramatically that you're sometimes surprised how easily they come out afterward.

The time to try the above steps is before you snap off a corroded/seized bolt or captured nut.
 
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There are a few threads on here about cutting a hole in the tub from above to access the top. I have relatively little rust on my frame, but for whatever reason my rear upper shock bolt area looks like death. I was fully prepared to break them all but was luckily able to get them all out the first time after a few days of soaking with kroil. I used a 3/8 impact gun, barely breathed on the trigger to start them loose, then got them out by hand. I read more than a few threads on cutting a hole before hand though.

https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/broke-upper-rear-shock-bolts.9667/page-4
 
The trick I found with mine was to gentle rock the bolt back and forth to loosen the rust, after applying a considerable amount of penetrating oil first.

The trick to successful extraction, at least for me, is to tighten first, then loosen. Not much, just a smidge. Then loosen just a smidge - maybe 1/16" of a turn. Apply more lubricant and tighten it down (to work the lubricant into the thread). Loosen again going a touch further, lube, tighten. Repeat until removed.
 
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These are very easy to twist off using an impact of any type. First do exactly what Jerry says. Every day. Many times a day. For many days. Get them from above and below. You can hit them if you use a 'straw' to sneak in between the frame and the body.
Then, as said, slowly go with a ratchet a bit tighter, a bit looser, back and forth until they either start to unthread😁 or twist off.🤬 Be prepared for a least 1 to break. From there you can find many different options to deal with a broken mount here in the forum. Do a simple search. I think I would lean towards lifting that side of the tub to give some room for a chisel over cutting holes in the body. Although you may already have holes so it won't hurt much. But you probably need new body mounts anyway. If so, get rubber replacements. Don't use polyurethane. 🤓
 
bruceco said:
Thanks Jerry.I am sure no matter what They will probably break.I have never seen kroil up here in canada just pb blaster,I will try and find some.
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Find and use Liquid Wrench or BreakFree if you can't find Kroil. Don't waste your time with PB-Blaster on this.
 
bruceco said:
My 2000 tj was in bad shape when I got it and had to restructure the lower frame because of rust here in ontario canada. At the time I never worried about the shocks and have had it on the road 3 summers now. I know when I go after the shocks the rears will break off for sure. I now there are a lot of ways on the internet to tackle it.I remember a few years ago someone tackling it from the top.He opened the floor above the shock towers and did it from above . He cut 3 sides and bent the tabs up. Anyone have a link to that. It is not a cherry tj so I don't mind doing it that way. Your thoughts.
Click to expand...

I had to cut holes in my tub because my nuts were welded all the way around. I used a 1 1/2” hole saw instead of cutting a rectangular access. I did that because I didn’t have anyone to weld the rectangles in. I used 2 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 expandable rubber freeze plugs to fill in the holes until I could have them welded. It took a little more fiddling with the holes but, I had a sealed tub when I was done.
 
Jerry Bransford said:
At least start with multiple drenchings of the upper bolts & above the bracket to the nuts with a GOOD penetrant like Kroil or Liquid Wrench. I'm talking several drenchings over several days to let it soak in before trying to remove any of the bolts. Don't waste your time with PB-Blaster which is not much better than WD-40 which doesn't even claim to be a penetrant.

If that doesn't do the trick, heat is your next step. I'm talking torch on the bolts, even a propane torch will produce the heat needed. Getting the bolts darned near cherry red is sometimes needed. Enough heat will often loosen seized bolts so dramatically that you're sometimes surprised how easily they come out afterward.

The time to try the above steps is before you snap off a corroded/seized bolt or captured nut.
Click to expand...
X2 on the heat. Another old pipe fitter trick is to hit on one side of the bolt with a hammer while holding another hammer against the opposite side. The vibrations will often loosen stuck bolts. Try it before applying heat. It it doesn’t work, go ahead & apply the heat, but use the hammers too.
Let us know how all this works out.
 
I remember all the bolts I tried to get out, the thread which went through was always the problem.The area protruding out of the nut was the problem.The nutserts always broke off soaking or not.The bolts that were sticking through might as well be welded.This rust belt area is really bad.I have enjoyed the 2000 tj a lot but I know after spending 3 months of winter in my garage under it when I got it I know it cannot be lifted or other things I would like to do in the future.Eventually I will get a southern one or from out west in Canada.I have had enough of cutting ,grinding and welding rust areas.I thought coming in from the top I could grind the tops of the protruding bolts,soak from there and then give it a go.Here is what I mean.

jeep rust in bucket.JPG
 
bruceco said:
I remember all the bolts I tried to get out, the thread which went through was always the problem.The area protruding out of the nut was the problem.The nutserts always broke off soaking or not.The bolts that were sticking through might as well be welded.This rust belt area is really bad.I have enjoyed the 2000 tj a lot but I know after spending 3 months of winter in my garage under it when I got it I know it cannot be lifted or other things I would like to do in the future.Eventually I will get a southern one or from out west in Canada.I have had enough of cutting ,grinding and welding rust areas.I thought coming in from the top I could grind the tops of the protruding bolts,soak from there and then give it a go.Here is what I mean.

View attachment 226649
Click to expand...
Dang. Literal rust bucket.
 
If you go with the torch method, grab a candle and let the heat wick it into the threads. It’s a tight area but that will help.
Also, like mentioned, days leading up to launch soak with freeze-off or some such spray and go back and forth to not stress the bolt too much at once.
 
I am a new user of Kroil. It works better than any other penetrating liquid I have used. At $20 a can, it is worth double that.

Heat and cold will work too. Shrink the bolt, expand the nut. A plumbers soldering LP torch is a cheap heat source, or a oxy/act small soldering tip. A syringe with cold water in to squirt on the bolt.
 
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