SwayLOC clearance and opinions on the remote unit

M

mousehunter

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Read a bunch of threads, but have not been fully able to wrap my head around the potential clearance issues with the sway-loc system. I currently have a 4" lift and 35x12.5 tires on 17" rims (thanks to the PO). Been talking with my tire shop, thinking of changing the tires and rims to 33x10.5 on 15" rims (few reasons, but don't feel like I need the extra height, kind of want C rated tires for smoother offroad performance, looks...). The sway-loc would also probably help make the offroad performance smoother, but heard there can be clearence issues with smaller tires- so don't want to invest in the 33's only to purchase rubbing issues if I end up with a sway-loc in a couple of months.

I guess vehicle use is kind of important when building. I don't plan on rock crawling much, but trail and off road happens several times a week. I am not off road long enough to want to disconnect the sway bar - but pushing a button seems like a perfect solution. Yet I have read a few posts saying to avoid the Sway-loc remote - but not really why. I know airing down would also help, but hard to justify when you are offroad for 10 minutes at a time.
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In the mean time, I know I need to play with airing down and disconnecting my sway bar (as an experiment at least). New shocks are also in the bucket list. Anyway, sorry about the rambling. Mostly trying to figure out if I should order the new tires and rims this week, and if I should plan on going with the sway-loc when I finally get my jeep to a shop to deal with gearing and lockers.
 
the manual swayloc is so easy I can't imagine justifying the remote option. It's flipping a switch, it's just that the switch is outside. The hardest thing is getting out and back in.

Not sure what clearance issues would arise from smaller tires. My 35s rub the swayloc a little bit at full lock+stuff and I'm pretty sure 33x10.5 would rub less, or not at all.
 
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Also think the equation comes down to air...it's an air actuated disconnect...so if you already have an onboard compressor then it's just a matter of additional cost...and as you mentioned possible clearance issues...I was looking at it but I use e-lockers and don't want to plumb up air (yet.)

-Mac
 
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The push button convenience is probably location dependent. To access my ranch I have to make a 60 or120 degree turn at a blind intersection on the top of a hill in a curve with heavy commercial traffic. Since it is a fairly sharp grade on the trashed county road, the 18 wheelers try to maintain a decent amount of momentum not only to the intersection, but usually through it (ignoring the stop sign). I don't completely blame them, it is hard enough to do with a unloaded truck - not less a fully loaded tractor trailer. Anyway, the place I would want to disengage the sway bar is also a place I really don't want to park and get out of my vehicle (but one I can easily slow roll, or stop momentarily), as speeding 18 wheelers go by every couple of minutes.

As a joke, the stop sign at the intersection has a half life of about 2 weeks - that is about how often someone misses the county road and does rapid unplanned off roading. I've even seen the local police stuck in the ditch there. At least the county maintains a good run out behind it - most vehicles don't roll and can come to a stop before the next fence (even if they do leave bumpers and suspension parts behind-like the police cruiser did). It surprises me there is not a row of crosses at that intersection already.
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trying to plan the build now - so am seriously considering onboard air and air lockers. Much cheaper to plan it now than change my mind latter.
 
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So you can't just get out and flip the switch after you make the turn and get out of traffic?
 
There is always the CHANCE you can damage the air cylinder but that wasn't from the tire hitting it.

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I could stop and flip a switch. I have about 100 yards of visibility after I get offroad in either direction. In all honesty, it is probably worth the tiny price difference to start out with manual and see how much I like it. I just realize that tools are most useful when they are convenient. Pretty sure I would be more tempted to drive with it on the road disconnected or go though the washboards first than stop before them and disconnect.

As for tools being convenient. I needed to check on a down cow today. I have a SxS and a ranch truck I call the "mud buggy", but my 3/4 ton is generally more convenient. Well, the 3/4 ton is now stuck 1/2 mile from the road (locked 4L did not cut it). The cow was dead, but at least the truck will be an easy recovery tomorrow (just need to air down and drive out once the rain stops).
 
I get backspace and offset confused, but 8" rims with 3 5/8" backspace I think - on the ones I ordered this afternoon. Hard to explain the county road. The blacktop curves at the top of the hill, the county road is tangent to it at the top of the hill, it then drops rapidly and goes down hill for about 150 yards and takes a hard 90 degree corner. The traffic is on the gravel road, and because a lot of it is 18 wheelers trying to make it to the top of the hill, they have torn the hell out of it. Once I am past that corner, the gravel road is fine till I get to my gate (which is where I would naturally stop anyway).

Anyway, stuck my 3/4 ton checking on a cow this morning, so decided to punt and get the rims ordered so I can get some decent mud grips on the jeep sooner rather than latter.
 
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I have a sway loc and rub pretty good on it. I don't have an adjustable track bar installed yet. I am rubbing the paint off the driver side this weekend wheeling. 35x12.50 15 on ravine wheels with 2 inch spacers. I also have a washer or 2 under the stops.

The passenger side of the sway loc rubs on the aluminum switch plate. Switching action is smooth though I did have to move it around a bit due some dried mud. It wasn't a big deal though.
 
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