Teraflex belly-up skid question

Trailblazer325

Trailblazer325

Member
Joined
Nov 23, 2018
Messages
30
Location
NE Georgia
Thank you for all the great information in this Forum. After many months of saving $$ and reading ALOT I have ordered Currie 4" SA, Currie 1" body, Currie HD tie rod system, TeraFlex skids, Falcon series 3 shocks(this was hardest decision due to $). Removed a 3" body lift (bought it this way) yesterday and replaced with 1" Currie body lift. Then dropped factory transfer skid to install Teraflex belly up and ran into this problem.
The install video shows removing a small bracket from factory skid but mine does not have one (pics attached). The install video shows an auto trans so wondering if this is problem? I have lots of work to do but stuck here now. I also ordered Currie 1" motor mounts ($105) but found that Teraflex belly up comes with 1" blocks to put under factory motor mounts. Any downside to using the "free" 1" blocks vs the new Currie motor mounts. Thank you and sorry for long note.

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He bracket it shows being removed in the video is likely he locker pump bracket on a Rubicon model. Yours wouldn’t have those since it’s not a Rubicon, so nothing to worry about there.
 
I figured it out. Teraflex only did video for auto trans and the paper instructions included are not really instructions. This is a direct fit with manual trans, there is an offset for the 4 trans bolts that I could not see from an angle under Jeep. I attached pics for any others installing on manual. The skid is HD but not the paint, the scratches are from sliding about 4 feet on an epoxy floor.

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Wow, that's some pretty weak paint / powder coat in that case! Oh well, at least it's under the vehicle.
 
Realise this is an old post, I've just got my first TJ and was looking at this kit to improve clearance. Initially I though it was simply a plate change but seems to include engine mount spacers and the local reseller (I'm in Australia) is suggesting replacing the uni joints on the drive shaft as well.

From what I've seen on the install video this actually changes the height of the transmission which is why the additonal changes are required.

Can anyone advise if adding a lift after fitting this changes the driveline angle even more and means this doesn't work?
 
Welcome to the forum!

I have this skid plate. In order to run this skid correctly, you’ll need a MML and a 1-1.25” BL. You’ll also need an SYE and new DC driveshaft for the rear. The front driveshaft should be okay, unless you have a very tall lift, and not need anything done with it unless the u joints are bad and just needing replacement anyways.

Installing a tummy tuck is a pretty intensive process that requires a lot of supporting mods to do correctly.

If you have a non rubicon TJ then you need the Slip Yoke Eliminator as that helps your driveline angles when you add a Double Cardan Driveshaft with it. The Motor Mount Lift does the same thing by tilting your transfer case output down towards the rear axle pinion more and the 1-1.25” Body Lift helps make room to raise your trans and transfer case up with the new skid.

All that said if you can swing the cost and effort of install I think it’s worth every penny.
 
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Thx mate, much appreciated. Clearly more than just a plate swap. Mine as far as I know is stock, literally just got it. By the time you do all those extra bits there's a few $$$ in it. Might just do tyres for now and see how much of an issue it becomes.
 
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Off The Beaten Path said:
Thx mate, much appreciated. Clearly more than just a plate swap. Mine as far as I know is stock, literally just got it. By the time you do all those extra bits there's a few $$$ in it. Might just do tyres for now and see how much of an issue it becomes.
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I forgot to mention that you’d also need adjustable rear upper control arms to roll your pinion up so that’d be another cost to it.

I think that is a good plan for starting out. Save up the money for the tummy tuck and do it right. It’s one of the best mods you can do. Best of all is you can do it in pieces.
 
Thx
imahnu said:
I forgot to mention that you’d also need adjustable rear upper control arms to roll your pinion up so that’d be another cost to it.

I think that is a good plan for starting out. Save up the money for the tummy tuck and do it right. It’s one of the best mods you can do. Best of all is you can do it in pieces.
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Thx
 
Welcome to the forum. I also have this skid plate and indeed to run it correctly you will need all the mods mentioned above by @imahnu.

The only thing I will add, is that you can run it without having clearance issues with a 1/2” body lift also. There are some people (myself included) who are not fond of the visual result of body lifts.

In my case, when I installed the skid plate for the first time, I did all the above mods except for the body lift and I did have clearance issues. After, installing the 1/2” BL, it’s all good.

Enjoy your Jeep!
 
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Hi Guys. Sorry to dig this up again but the time has come to do the BellyUp.
So I have done the SYE replacement and fitted adjustable control arms accordingly.
Now the only question is, do I still need a motor lift or body lift for the BellyUp?
TIA
 
ErrolSmith said:
Hi Guys. Sorry to dig this up again but the time has come to do the BellyUp.
So I have done the SYE replacement and fitted adjustable control arms accordingly.
Now the only question is, do I still need a motor lift or body lift for the BellyUp?
TIA
Click to expand...

The MML is usually added to deal with driveline vibes. You may or may not need it.
The body lift might be needed depending on how high of a TT (BellyUp) you do.
 
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