It will appear to sit correctly, only to crush the top of the thermostat and leak all over the place. Before you fit the thermostat in the block, test fit it in the housing.
Thermostat replacement help
- Thread starter kiwi
- Start date
It will appear to sit correctly, only to crush the top of the thermostat and leak all over the place. Before you fit the thermostat in the block, test fit it in the housing.
Says you’re in Seattle so probably not an issue, but be aware distilled water freezes. Known to do significant damage here in winter when we get cold temps.
He's not filling it with distilled water, he's topping it off with distilled water after replacing the thermostat. There's still plenty of coolant left in the system.
Ok pulled the housing back off…
So i assumed what happened is the thermostat slid down and cut through the gasket. There’s also marking on the thermostat and housing to indicate this
(Line across the top)
(Slit in inner side of housing)
So obviously i need a new gasket. I checked the housing with a straight edge and it doesn’t seem warped. Also thermostat doesn’t show any damage so i hope that’s still ok
One thing i was curious about is that the thermostat isn’t completely flush in the block…
Might be hard to tell from photo but it has a little bump on the outer edge which causes it to be a tiny bit higher than the block, is this an issue?
Also in the housing it doesn’t sit flush at all but i assume that’s how it’s meant to be, since it should be flush with the block
So i assumed what happened is the thermostat slid down and cut through the gasket. There’s also marking on the thermostat and housing to indicate this
(Line across the top)
(Slit in inner side of housing)
So obviously i need a new gasket. I checked the housing with a straight edge and it doesn’t seem warped. Also thermostat doesn’t show any damage so i hope that’s still ok
One thing i was curious about is that the thermostat isn’t completely flush in the block…
Might be hard to tell from photo but it has a little bump on the outer edge which causes it to be a tiny bit higher than the block, is this an issue?
Also in the housing it doesn’t sit flush at all but i assume that’s how it’s meant to be, since it should be flush with the block
Ok any tips for bleeding the system?
I put it back together with a new gasket and no leaks so far. Started it up and let it run without the rad cap on until it reached operating temp.. Do i let it cool down and run this cycle again? Or is one time enough?
I put it back together with a new gasket and no leaks so far. Started it up and let it run without the rad cap on until it reached operating temp.. Do i let it cool down and run this cycle again? Or is one time enough?
Amberfire01Tj
Member
Can I top it off through the reservoir? I’ve been told not to open the rad cap to top off
If you wait until the engine is cool it's safe and entirely appropriate to remove the radiator cap to add more coolant. Just don't try to remove the radiator cap right after it has been driven when the engine is warmed up. Make sure you fully lock the radiator cap back down by turning it fully clockwise.
I prefer using this
I do my refills using this tool while the engine idles. Squeeze on the hoses, and you'll see air bubbles coming out well after you thought it was done burping.
Simply plug the funnel with the handle stopper when you're done, and drain the excess into your reservoir.
I do my refills using this tool while the engine idles. Squeeze on the hoses, and you'll see air bubbles coming out well after you thought it was done burping.
Simply plug the funnel with the handle stopper when you're done, and drain the excess into your reservoir.
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If it was perfectly flush, it would be loose and rattle due to the thickness of the gasket.
Amberfire01Tj
Member
I ended buying the kit.
Just swapped my thermostat today and found the old one was good but the jiggle valve was placed at 6-7 o’clock position…not sure if that would cause air to spray coolant out reservoir at higher rpm’s but I’m hoping that fixes it.
When burping the system do you suggest having the front end up higher(like on ramps or a hill) I’ve read a couple posts stating that this is suggested
I didn't have it raised. Maybe someone else can chime in on if that matters when using the burping kit.
This is concerning. Are you sure the pressure build-up is what caused the coolant spray? If so, have you done a pressure test? Could be a bad radiator cap, blown head gasket, leaking hose/hose clamps.
FYI, I had coolant spray all over in the engine bay but it was due to the lid on the coolant bottle leaking and the fan spraying the coolant all over. To solve this, I placed some adhesive back 1/8” thick closed cell foam to the inside of the reservoir lid. All good after doing so.
Amberfire01Tj
Member
Shop pressure tested cooling system at idle after replacing the radiator for the second time in a month(free) supposedly due to poor quality Murray rads which is my mistake for not getting a oem
No coolant in oil
Brand new Mopar rad cap
Ive had a couple shops here in Yuma look at it and neither “thinks” it’s a head gasket but neither shop has impressed me with their competence. For example I had a shop replace the radiator and flush out the blue coolant from engine and replace with G05 I supplied and now I have green coolant because they didn’t flush the engine good.
It seems to spray out the reservoir when rpm’s get higher like when accelerating onto highway.
I personally think it’s a small leak in head gasket
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Amberfire01Tj
Member
It looked almost clear with a bit of yellow in the reservoir when I first picked up from the shop and then after a couple of drives it turned green
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