Got my OE rad through amazon, was like 200 ish for an M/T and got here Un damaged in 2 days. Is Indeed OE, or someone is good at faking MOPAR tags and builds a really nice rad.
Thoughts on failing water pump?
- Thread starter Dunkut88TJ
- Start date
Aviatortroy
TJ Enthusiast
I’ve had very good luck buying oem parts from amazon but there’s a trick to it... Find the Mopar part # from a legit source, and then search on Amazon for that specific part # then you are guaranteed to get the right part
Anyone know the torque specs for the thermostat housing, waterpumo bolts, and pulley cover that fan connects to?
I think you’ll find it here for your year model.
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/jeep-wrangler-tj-torque-specs-1997-2006.16906/
https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/jeep-wrangler-tj-torque-specs-1997-2006.16906/
well I wish that trick had worked, I bought that tool just in case. Didn’t have a wrench large enough and none of my neighbor fellows did either! I spent about 30 minutes fighting it wishing I had a third arm, after that I got the wife out there to hold a wrench and it came loose pretty easily!
so far so good, think I did a good job cleaning the block. Just have to install the pump tomorrow and hopefully will be riding!
Yeah, I wound up with the tool and somehow sitting in the engine and using a foot to help (god bless the hoods on these) was a royal pain, but I got it off and swapped over.
best one I have ever done was a 2000 4 runner just pull the coil connection, but a socket with a breaker bar on the fan clutch, brace it against the frame rail and hit the starter. Worked great, sounded awful, but worked great and didint break anything.
Would it be safe to assume the previous owner was running standard coolant in my 06?? It’s pretty much neon green. Need to know tomorrow to determine whether or not to flush? Never had an issues with overheating this past summer
I’ve been trying to read on this so I don’t hammer everyone with questions but if I could find a green HOAT you think it would be alright?
I have read about not mixing with OAT and the potential sludge etc. I didn’t realize all this until I hit my stopping point tonight.
Get
Get yourself some distilled water (like 5 bucks worth at Walmart) enough to completely fill the cooling system and put that in instead of coolant, run that for a day or 2 drain it, and fill with either OE coolant or Zerex HOAT (both are orange) these Jeeps are normally pretty picky about coolant, save yourself the trouble and just do it right the first time, you can get MOPAR OE coolant for not to much through Amazon (make sure you get the right coolant for the right year of your Jeep, they changed it somewhere in the 2010’s)
No, since coolant manufacturers have not standardized on their colors as any indication of the type of coolant it is.
Just finished changing out the entire cooling system on our '05. From my limited research, the only color HOAT I didn't come across was green. Found red/pink, yellow, and orange. The Zerex G05 I used is a faint yellow color — much closer to clear than actual yellow.
x2 on filling with distilled water (I only got about 2 gallons in each fill), driving it a bit and draining it. I did it twice, and still noticed a green tinge from the UV dye that I'd put in there looking for the leak in the first place. Putting a finger into what was draining out the second time, there was no oily feel, and no sweet or bitter taste (if you taste it, don't swallow it — antifreeze is not exactly safe to drink). At that point it's certainly diluted enough to put the HOAT back in.
x2 on filling with distilled water (I only got about 2 gallons in each fill), driving it a bit and draining it. I did it twice, and still noticed a green tinge from the UV dye that I'd put in there looking for the leak in the first place. Putting a finger into what was draining out the second time, there was no oily feel, and no sweet or bitter taste (if you taste it, don't swallow it — antifreeze is not exactly safe to drink). At that point it's certainly diluted enough to put the HOAT back in.
Jerry, Just replaced thermostat and housing. Put in new gasket around housing and its leaking while filling up with coolant? Took of gasket put a different one on, same thing? What gives? Ideas? I am so frustrated... I have a 4.0 manual
Jerry is far more knowledgeable about it than I. But my question is did you clean both surfaces thoroughly? If they are clean and you torque it to spec you should be ok. I ended up having the same issue, took two tries to get it right.
I’m also fighting a lower hose that likes to spit some coolant out every few rides. I just need straighten up the clamp when I have time. It drips one drop and then Doesn’t on the next few rides. It just likes to drive me insane.
Sounds like there could be bits of the old gasket on one or both seating surfaces which can definitely cause a leak. It's always a good idea after using a putty knife or similar to scrape the old gasket off to follow that up with a steel brush to get both seating surfaces absolutely pristine/surgically clean.
It was a hot day when I replaced my water pump and once I started filling the cooling system back up afterwards, it was gushing coolant between the block and water pump. I had missed getting every last smidgen of the old gasket off the engine block, it was a tiny shard of the old gasket material that was preventing the new gasket from sealing properly.
Or perhaps your new thermostat housing is not perfectly flat where it seats against the head. Sometimes you have to do a final flattening job on the driveway by lapping it on a piece of emery cloth or sand paper placed on a flat surface.
Thank. I used a wire brush this time as well and actually added a thin coat of gasket sealant on each side of the gasket in case there is an imperfection in the metal. We will see. Letting it dry for a while.
Sometimes the cast aluminum t-stat housing is damaged or cracked during removal. First time I did the thermostat I cracked it, and it was a nightmare until I figured it out and replaced the housing.
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