Does anyone have a thread or two showing the process building a cage with the tube going through the dash at the A-pillar? I'd like to see the process and start planning to do so.
Through the dash cage builds
- Thread starter sierradmax
- Start date
I think there used to be a thread on Pirate but I'd guess most of the pictures would of been hosted on Photobucket so the links might not work...
Found this with a quick search..
https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/through-dash-roll-cage-done-pics.557637/
One thing that used to be discussed was that you'd lose your vent/defrost if through the dash but then after a few years cages were being made where the hoses were just pushed out of the way...
Good luck.
@NashvilleTJ did his thru the dash... And I'm sure there are a few other members who have... There used to be a couple companies who offered kits that were thru the dash but they are all gone now.
I did - way back in 2014. Mine was completely custom, but you can definitely do it without interfering with the dash vents. You just have to spend some time getting the routing for the tube just right.
i was always wonderd if you just removed the dash and build the cage if you’d be able to install with the trimming done outside the jeep.
I have a custom cage that goes through the dash. I wasn't exactly happy with all aspects, but he did go through the dash and was able to re-route my AC components. AC still works pretty well.
There was a few good old threads. Here's a couple:
https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/all-about-roll-cages-for-tj-lj.1208533/page-49
https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/official-cage-idea-pic-discussion-thread.128237/
There was a few good old threads. Here's a couple:
https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/all-about-roll-cages-for-tj-lj.1208533/page-49
https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/official-cage-idea-pic-discussion-thread.128237/
I saved this photo, in case I do a full cage (don't have skills or the tools). I have the shop that would do it and want to show him what I am aiming for. Your work is as always super clean, well thought through and presents well.
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B00mb00m
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I paid to have a shop build mine through the dash and they kept the vents so it can be done. Can take photos if you want
Here's a kit I found that uses your stock rear cage and adds the front bars.
https://www.rhodesracecars.com/8-To-10-Point-Conversion--JEEP-TJ-_p_9381.html
Or from Summit
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rhc-13-2639-dom
https://www.rhodesracecars.com/8-To-10-Point-Conversion--JEEP-TJ-_p_9381.html
Or from Summit
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rhc-13-2639-dom
This is sort of what I'm looking for. I don't plan on wheeling the rig in question, to the point where it could roll multiple times. However, I have flopped a couple times and it's inevitable any jeep I wheel may end up on its roof. And at the very minimum, protect the front cab from crushing. If it crushes the windshield, replace it. But at least the cage, or any strengthening of the factory sport bar will protect me.
I did but three lengths of 1.75", .120" DOM for pretty cheap so this should be plenty .
I've been looking at it too... I could replace the front part that I currently have which is a Poison Spyder "Sports Cage" which is their stanchions and then 4 upper bars. My buddy that ran a fab shop at the time added extra upper bars and a dash bar. Then I added the V brace. But I might just wait and see if the stanchions hold up to a flop first...
Do you have any pictures of how you tied it into the floor? This is on my to-do list at some point…
Me? Pictures of a mod? I'm not sure - I'll have to check...
I used tube connectors here so that I can remove the cage without needing to completely pull the dash.
Not shown are the sleeves between the top and bottom plates to keep the torque tube from crushing.
I always planned on using this lower plate to tie the cage into the frame. But 12 years later....
For me, this was the key to avoid impacting the air ducts - trimmed to allow the a-pillar tube to tuck back a little further:
It tucked in quite nicely.
Me? Pictures of a mod? I'm not sure - I'll have to check...
I used tube connectors here so that I can remove the cage without needing to completely pull the dash.
View attachment 681928
Not shown are the sleeves between the top and bottom plates to keep the torque tube from crushing.
View attachment 681929
I always planned on using this lower plate to tie the cage into the frame. But 12 years later....
For me, this was the key to avoid impacting the air ducts - trimmed to allow the a-pillar tube to tuck back a little further:
View attachment 681931
It tucked in quite nicely.
View attachment 681934
Nice work as always Jeff... Really looks great.
reviving this thread.
I'm starting to plan for the through-dash tube and I'm open to idea's on how to best tackle, getting my angles correct..
1. It looks like the tube originating from the floor and coming through the dash would be 100% plumb, or parallel to the TJ dash/perpendicular to the floor.
2. Initial bend could be at the top of the dash and mimic the angle of the windshield frame.
3. A second bend might be required to align the tube to meet the header bar, before notching.
It seems kind of difficult getting both bends & the angle of the notch in the upper tube dead nuts without some expensive trial and error. Is the upper "notch" best attacked by leaving the tube long with multiple test-fits after some careful die-grinding? Thoughts on a round tube clamp at the header bar so the entire cage can be removed without having to tear apart the dash?
I'm starting to plan for the through-dash tube and I'm open to idea's on how to best tackle, getting my angles correct..
1. It looks like the tube originating from the floor and coming through the dash would be 100% plumb, or parallel to the TJ dash/perpendicular to the floor.
2. Initial bend could be at the top of the dash and mimic the angle of the windshield frame.
3. A second bend might be required to align the tube to meet the header bar, before notching.
It seems kind of difficult getting both bends & the angle of the notch in the upper tube dead nuts without some expensive trial and error. Is the upper "notch" best attacked by leaving the tube long with multiple test-fits after some careful die-grinding? Thoughts on a round tube clamp at the header bar so the entire cage can be removed without having to tear apart the dash?
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