Time for a 241OR rebuild

Its finally back together. Kind of a struggle for me.

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Struggled getting the case halves together. I would get it together and it wouldn't go into 2WD. So, I tore the main shaft apart and made sure everything was installed correctly. Thinking through how everything moves and the different pieces engage, I know its back together correctly, but it still wouldn't disengage in 2WD. After a bit, I realized that the main shaft kinda falls toward the front of the T-case when you assemble it as the manual specifies (the orientation that my pictures are in). When the mainshaft falls toward the front of the case, the mode selection rings wouldn't fully separate, so it was always in 4WD. Okay, that makes sense...so I put the rear of the case on, installed a couple bolts, and worked the mainshaft back to the rear. I had 2WD! Sweet. So I took the rear case back off, ran a bead of sealant, then put it back together. Tried to check function...and it was bound up. I also couldn't find the little hole for the tone ring drive pin. WTF!!!

So, back apart it comes. I had to clean all the sealant off again (I hate RTV) then I walked away for the night. Tonight, I looked at everything again. Figured out that I was fighting the oil pump in the back half of the case. The drive splines are on the mainshaft, which gets installed into the front half of the case. So, when you install the back half, you have to not only get the oil pump centered well enough to go over the mainshaft (it kinda floats around in the bore), you have to get the splines lined up...blind. They do tell you this in the Service manual...but not in a way that stands out. As soon as I had the A-Ha moment, I read the manual and it clicked. The manual tells you to use the mainshaft to line up the oil pump drive ring. What they don't say is to do that FIRST, with the case clocked so the only thing engaging the case half is the mainshaft.

Once I figured that out, it went right together. I hope I didn't fuck up the oil pump...cuz then its Atlas time. The oil pump is non serviceable and you have to replace the whole case half (and its not available from Jeep anymore).
 
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Sorry to hear about your struggle. I think we paid more attention to the oil pump than anything else when putting it back together. Sometimes the best thing to do is walk away for a day like you did. I have had many of those moments.
 
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hosejockey61 said:
Sorry to hear about your struggle. I think we paid more attention to the oil pump than anything else when putting it back together. Sometimes the best thing to do is walk away for a day like you did. I have had many of those moments.
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Yeah, its a bit embarrassing to admit that I missed it for so long. But, if someone along the way reads this and it helps em out, its worth admitting that I'm still not a master mechanic!

I think the thing that got me is there is enough room for the cases to go together easily, and the mainshaft doesn't engage the oil pump at all! So, everything spins like it should, you just can't get it into 2WD. I started thinking I misplaced a thrust washer or something to keep that mainshaft in position.
 
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Mike_H said:
Been noticing some driveline vibs lately. Started at 80 (hey, we drive fast here in Mi) and after my last wheelin trip, had become noticable at 65. Decided to grab hold of the front driveshaft and giver a wiggle...sure enough I have play at the T-case end. Thinking its the U-joints in the Driveshaft, I pull it and if feels pretty good. Grab the yoke on the T-case and that is where the play is coming from. Not rotational, like slack in the chain, but translational, like a worn bearing.

I found this kit on Ebay

[URL]https://www.ebay.com/itm/27268...d=link&campid=5337789113&toolid=20001&mkevt=1[/URL]

but well, its ebay, and who the hell knows. Anyone know of a reputable, name brand place that sells a rebuild kit or am I destined to go through the part numbers and painstakingly cross reference the mopar numbers to generic name brand numbers?
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I ordered a NP231 rebuild kit with chain directly from National Drivetrain this summer. The parts fit and my rebuild works great.
https://www.nationaldrivetrain.com/ I think they also sell on eBay but I called to talk to a human.
More than you asked for, a few things from my notes: 1) the “Jeep component service manual Transfer Case 231“ was different than the NV231 generic rebuild manual and the same may be true for the 241. The difference was at the output shaft including extension housing and retainer rings. 2) the Small parts kit is separate and is needed if any snap/retainer rings don’t spring back or break, 3) it was worth the few bucks to get the new oil pump rather than rebuild the old and 4) if you replace the blind pilot bearing in the input shaft) it gets set at a special depth with tool J33829 (tool 5065 in other manual)- bought mine on eBay for about $15. if you’re careful to measure depth of the old pilot, and it was set correctly, I suppose you could set depth at same. You’ll know what I mean if the 241 manual shows the same bearing. TJBUD
 
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folks, sorry the replies since 1st post were hidden from me. Looks like I was late to the party
 
I know it's been a few months since this thread was active, but I was wondering if anyone here could answer my question. I just put my nv241 back together. I replaced the rear output bearing and all seals. Tone ring is fully seated and rear balancer and flange are on and torqued down. Everything feels good except I have a very slight play at the rear output where it can slide in and out (zero play up and down/side to side). I measured the play as 1/64" or about 0.3mm, so... slight but definitely there. Is this normal? I don't think I checked before taking it apart, so not sure how it started. Thanks.
 
marcus2137 said:
I know it's been a few months since this thread was active, but I was wondering if anyone here could answer my question. I just put my nv241 back together. I replaced the rear output bearing and all seals. Tone ring is fully seated and rear balancer and flange are on and torqued down. Everything feels good except I have a very slight play at the rear output where it can slide in and out (zero play up and down/side to side). I measured the play as 1/64" or about 0.3mm, so... slight but definitely there. Is this normal? I don't think I checked before taking it apart, so not sure how it started. Thanks.
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IIRC, there is a bit of in and out play on both outputs. I bet if you check the front yoke, you'll feel some play there, too.
 
Mike_H said:
IIRC, there is a bit of in and out play on both outputs. I bet if you check the front yoke, you'll feel some play there, too.
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That little bit of in/out is normal. As long as all of your snap rings are fully seated, you're good.
 
hosejockey61 said:
That little bit of in/out is normal. As long as all of your snap rings are fully seated, you're good.
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Thanks to both of you guys for replying. Good to know. It still bugs me though.

Seems like it has to be the rear bearing moving slightly in the retainer. The yoke/flange is tightened and the yoke, speedo ring, and rear bearing all all clamped between the yoke and the shoulder in the main shaft. So it has to be the output bearing slightly moving. I used a National bearing but the specs match perfectly with the OEM one I pulled out. I thought about getting a shim to take the play out but maybe it's suppose to be there, maybe when everything heats up it gets tight and would cause problems without the play. Good to know I didn't mess it up though and that 1/64" in and out is acceptable. Thnx
 
marcus2137 said:
Thanks to both of you guys for replying. Good to know. It still bugs me though.

Seems like it has to be the rear bearing moving slightly in the retainer. The yoke/flange is tightened and the yoke, speedo ring, and rear bearing all all clamped between the yoke and the shoulder in the main shaft. So it has to be the output bearing slightly moving. I used a National bearing but the specs match perfectly with the OEM one I pulled out. I thought about getting a shim to take the play out but maybe it's suppose to be there, maybe when everything heats up it gets tight and would cause problems without the play. Good to know I didn't mess it up though and that 1/64" in and out is acceptable. Thnx
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It's the side to side or up down (same thing) that's a problem. In our 1/64" is fine. Rotational is fine to a point too (lash).
 
hosejockey61 said:
It's the side to side or up down (same thing) that's a problem. In our 1/64" is fine. Rotational is fine to a point too (lash).
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Yep, it has zero up and down and the the only rotation play is seen in 4wd comparing the front and rear yoke-so just normal chain-driven TC play. Thanks for easing my OCDness, it's going back in the jeep in the next few days.
 
Also, I pulled a double-sided seal out of the front input but the replacement I got is a normal single-sided seal. I see lots of pics of 242or's using the single sided seal with the metal side out to the front/spring on the inside, but I've seen some pics with what looks like the double-sided seal also, what did you guys go with?
 
marcus2137 said:
Also, I pulled a double-sided seal out of the front input but the replacement I got is a normal single-sided seal. I see lots of pics of 242or's using the single sided seal with the metal side out to the front/spring on the inside, but I've seen some pics with what looks like the double-sided seal also, what did you guys go with?
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Whatever was in my kit. I don’t remember at this point if it was double lipped or single
 
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