Drilling isn't difficult with a regular drill. Just disconnect the swaybar and trackbar, jack up the vehicle by the rear diff, jack stands under the frame, and let the rear drop. You'll have plenty of room to work.
That's all good info, ty very much!I've done it three ways.
1. On a 2 post lift, during a lift install, with all the control arm bolts loose and sway bar disconnected. The axle drooped far enough to get the fuel tank out of the way and I don't even remember it being a struggle.
2. With the axle out of the Jeep during an axle swap. This was obviously the easiest.
3. On jackstands but otherwise much like scenario 1, though I think the sway bar was still connected. In this case the holes were there because I was just changing from a straight Teraflex bracket to an angled JKS bracket but I still had to get the drill in there because the holes weren't lining up quite perfectly and the top one had to be hogged out a little bit.
I've always had to use a ratchet strap to get the bar lined up with the bracket. And it needs to be a real one with some balls. I broke the last cheap flimsy one I tried to use to do it.
I suggest a ratcheting click type torque wrench when you torque the bar down, if you have stock style rubber bushings that have to be torqued at ride height. Access sucks and the range of motion you'll get with a beam type wrench will have you cussing when you have to pull the socket off and rotate it 90 degrees on the wrench between every turn on the bolt.
Only advantage of an adjustable is you can center the rear axle at a number of different lift heights.If you have a non-adjustable rear track bar and an existing bracket to accommodate the stock bar, is there any advantage to going with an adjustable? The bushings of mine look bad and was curious what the best was to proceed is.
Got it. I’ll check to be sure my axle is centered. I assume this is left/right centering (if you were facing the car)Only advantage of an adjustable is you can center the rear axle at a number of different lift heights.
Yes, left/right centering. Find a common place of measurement from each side (I use the frame).Got it. I’ll check to be sure my axle is centered. I assume this is left/right centering (if you were facing the car)
I'm in the process of gathering parts for a tummy tuck - waiting on JB SS SYE kit before I get adjustable track bar and relocation bracket. Will I need to get spacers too?If you don’t rotate your pinion and use the OME bracket you’ll need to use bump stop spacers somewhat larger than the standard 20 mm spacers OME sells. Otherwise the bracket will hit the tub. If you use the angled JKS bracket with a rotated pinion you’ll need to use even larger spacers because the bracket sticks up higher. I am using 1.5 inch spacers but I think it really needs to be 2 inches.
They wouldn’t hurt to have on hand and it’s likely you will need them. However you won’t fully know until you get everything where you want it, pull the springs, and cycle the axle.I'm in the process of gathering parts for a tummy tuck - waiting on JB SS SYE kit before I get adjustable track bar and relocation bracket. Will I need to get spacers too?
How about different length bump stops?They wouldn’t hurt to have on hand and it’s likely you will need them. However you won’t fully know until you get everything where you want it, pull the springs, and cycle the axle.
My 2.5” Rancho lift was designed by a team
It came with a trackbar relocation bracket
I installed it
Use the right drill bits, its not hard
I had my axle completely detached, springs out, etc
Check to see if your rear axle is centered before using a relo bracket.without reinforcement they can rip the stock bracket off the axle. Lazy approach is to see if your tires stick out of the flares equally. More indepth would be to measure from the outside of the frame to the backing plates on the axleThank you so much!! That's exactly the details I needed.