Tips on removing top nut on transfer case?

rokryder

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Crawfordville, FL
Trying to remove the transfer case, then the transmission to do a clutch job. Thought about removing the transfer case along with the transmission...but I am working alone and it seemed to be more popular to separate the two first. My TJ is up on my lift and I have two high-lift hydraulic transmission jacks, plus a 2-ton safety stand. After reading all of the members who did the job on jack stands, I thought this would be a piece of cake...wrong! Supposedly, the Jeep had a dealer clutch job some 60,000 miles ago and it appears nothing has been done since. I am the "second owner" (the real second owner bought it, moved it to his farm and didn't use it or put more than about 100 miles on it). I'm 68 now and of short stature...don't have the strength of my youth, but the shop is well-equipped. I was surprised that the clutch began slipping, as it felt great when I first got the Jeep and I have only put 1,200 easy miles on it. I suspect there might be disc contamination, which is why I want to do the job myself in order to see what actually is going on and then fix it.
I appreciate the suggestions I received about disconnecting the O2 sensor connector...they helped. (the two pieces were stubbornly tight even after the locking tab was depressed).

1) Should I give up on trying to separate the tranny/transfer case (the two nuts/studs I have removed so far have come out together and I expect the rest will too--my instinct is to replace them in order to get proper torquing on the nuts)

2) Right now, I am stuck trying to get anything I have on the nut that, facing the front of the transfer case, is at 1 o'clock. It's behind the transfer case torque bracket and would be no problem for a long extension and socket were it not for the casting that protrudes from the AX-5 tranny. I have tried wobble extensions, universal joints, curved distributer wrenches (remember those?), "s" shaped wrenches and ratcheting GearWrenches...if I can get on the nut, the bracket is in the way and I cannot turn any combination of wrenches that I have. I can't get even a short socket on an extension because of the casting. I've just ordered a set of 6-point flex sockets as a last resort. Any suggestions are welcome!!

3) How tight is the spring retainer that holds the shifter rod on (that needs to be depressed and turned)? I can't really get my hands in there too well because of the bracket that is giving me fits. Arthritis doesn't help.

4) Is it really necessary to drain the transfer case/tranny if one is not going to open them up after removal?

As always, I appreciate the collective wisdom here and I am sure that there will be things I haven't thought of yet that could make my life a whole lot easier (selling the Jeep is NOT an option!)

Kim
 
Go to your local auto parts store and get an E-10 and E-12 reverse torx socket for your ratchet wrench. The stud on the transmission is an E-12 and the one on the transfer case is an E-10.
 
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Go to your local auto parts store and get an E-10 and E-12 reverse torx socket for your ratchet wrench. The stud on the transmission is an E-12 and the one on the transfer case is an E-10.
Thanks, Jerry, I hoped you would chime in. Actually, the E12s on the tranny had been replaced with hex heads (I have external Torx sockets) and the nuts on the transfer case are 9/16 hex.
 
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Thanks, Jerry, I hoped you would chime in. Actually, the E12s on the tranny had been replaced with hex heads (I have external Torx sockets) and the nuts on the transfer case are 9/16 hex.
I have a straight shot to the top transmission/bellhousing bolts so I don't anticipate (who does?) problems there. Its the nut/stud at 1 o'clock on the transfer case behind the sheet metal linkage bracket that's the bugger...compounded by a cylindrical casting sticking out about 1.5 inches from the shift tower...that's right in line with that top nut/stud.
 
Have you lowered the tcase with a jack to give yourself more clearance?
Yes, right now I have the safety stand with a block of wood under the oil pan and the high lift transmission jack under the transfer case. I backed off of the safety stand and lowered the transmission jack to where I can barely get my hand (can't get two right now) on top of the shift tower...the angle I am at there makes it difficult to press down on the shifter shaft release collar. I can see the troublesome nut...heck...I'll go take a picture!

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When I pulled my transfer case out to do a SYE, i went to Rural King and bought a stubby 9/16 ratcheting wrench, and it made the job easy. Maybe try that?
 
I've used a half-moon wrench before to break it loose and then a ratcheting wrench after that.

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I have sort of a half-moon wrench in my distributor wrench...those above look like they might have the difference in angle that would be helpful--mine is a larger arc. I have stubby wrenches (non-ratcheting) that I will see if I can get on the silly nut, but I am starting to realize that, at this point, it might just be better to pull both the tranny and transfer case together and then deal with them once they are out of the Jeep.
Ironically, if I had pulled them together, I wouldn't have realized that the nuts on the transfer case were rusted solid on the transfer case studs, so I want to replace them all while I have it apart.

Does everyone drain the transmission/transfer case fluids when pulling them if they're not going inside them?

I noticed an issue with the slave cylinder that I will start another short thread on.

Thanks to everyone! This forum so unbelievably responsive!!

Kim
 
IIRC i had to chop a wrench to get up in there as well it's real tight but doable.
 
Well, the nasty nut is vanquished! The half-moon wrench idea made me try my distributer wrench again (after I already ordered a set of half-moons, flex sockets and stubby ratcheting wrenches--can't have TOO may tools, can we?) I found that I had some stiction in my tranny jack, so I was able to drop the tranny/transfer cases lower and get better access. I went over the top of the tranny with the distributor wrench, slid a socket extension through it and pulled, which broke the nut free. Of course, there was a hitch (of COURSE there was!)...after getting about 30 degrees or so of turning, where I needed to reset the wrench...I found out that the back of the shift tower was blocking my ability to remove the distributor wrench (!)...so I tightened it back and was now able to get above the transmission with a flex-head gear wrench...
...it's off!
Now back outside for more fun with Matilda!

Thanks to all!
Kim