so many help videos, so say torque others not. About to do rear diff gasket replacement and spark plugs( after I figure out how much engine needs to be removed to get to fourth plug on my 97 2.5!) so whats the consensus?
To Torque or not to Torque...that is the question
- Thread starter Michael Buenconsejo
- Start date
I never torqued diff cover bolts in all the years and diffs I built. I do torque plugs in aluminum heads but never have in iron heads. Of course it doesn't hurt to do so if you feel better about it.
Don't torque them, absolutely no need to at all! If you feel better you can do it, but I never do.
Don't use a 1/2" drive ratchet to tighten either of those, that big of a wrench makes it too easy to overtighten them. Use a 3/8" drive ratchet and tighten both "real snug" with one hand pressure and they'll be fine.
I don't recall any serious access restrictions on #4. I use a 3/8 drive 8-80 ft lb torque wrench because I have one. One of most useful tools to acquire by the way. A 0-150ft lb is a must for wheel nuts. Put the word out to Santa.
When it comes to winging it by hand, you can limit the applied torque by varying your grip and choosing the appropriate size socket wrench. For plugs, a 3/8 drive, 8-9" in length will work nicely. Give it a good twist with a normal grip. For the diff cover, choke up on the handle half-way. Your Dana 35 axle usually calls out RTV on the diff cover.
PStov98TJ
TJ Enthusiast
Are you talking about the plug all the way at the front of the engine? Just for clarification, that's the #1 plug.
Regardless, a swivel attachment for the spark plug socket will help tremendously in getting into tight places. And you'll probably end up using it in other places as well.
Regardless, a swivel attachment for the spark plug socket will help tremendously in getting into tight places. And you'll probably end up using it in other places as well.
I find it easier to remove the right front fender to change the plugs. :risas3: Kidding ... I replaced the fenders and did a few other things while I was at it.
And I agree ... no need to torque the spark plugs in a cast iron head. I think the correct torque is 27 ft.lbs. but hand tightening with a 3/8" drive ratchet and a proper spark plug socket will do it.
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xxdabroxx
TJ Addict
You just don't want to over crush the washer on spark plugs. I've never torqued a diff cover bolt. Just good and snug with an appropriate length ratchet. I've always used rtv with good luck for diff cover gaskets.
so it looks like I need to remove AC compreeor to access plug #1 on my Jeep. Unfortunately the guythat sold me the Jeep did have very much data or service records on the jeep ( I should have joined this forum before purchasing , but never would have found forum if I hadnt purchased jeep first) .
The belt is not connected to AC compressor so not sure if AC works Im guess not. Ive been told that I can replace correct belt to see if AC works. Can I just remove compressor and call it a day?
The belt is not connected to AC compressor so not sure if AC works Im guess not. Ive been told that I can replace correct belt to see if AC works. Can I just remove compressor and call it a day?
No you don't, it is definitely possible to replace the #1 spark plug without removing the a/c compressor. I had the same issue with my '97 TJ but all it took was a wobble-joint between the spark plug socket and 3/8" extension to snake the socket in under the compressor and remove the plug. I did that at least 2-3 times over the years I owned that Jeep.
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