Tools for Trail Repairs

Chris

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Thanks to @psrivats for recommending this as a resource and thanks to @mrblaine for putting it together. Many people have trail tool kits that are way too big and in turn they are carrying way more than they need to. This should help with those that need to put their trail tool kits on a diet.

There are not but a small handful of sockets you need anyway for trail repairs.
  • 12 point 13mm 1/2" drive socket and a spare.
  • Lug nut removal sockets and extensions.
  • Specialty bits for the hub kit.
  • Control arm sockets both sizes.
  • 2-3 Torx bits for stuff like the throttle body etc. that can't be done any other way and that includes the Tamper version for the ignition switch.
  • 13mm ratchet wrench to spin out the knuckle bolts a bit faster, not required but convenient.
  • Diff cover sockets and drive shaft pinion yoke tools.
  • Lug nut socket typically removes nuts on tie rod ends.
  • Phillips #2 in a very quality version for taking the dash apart to get to wiring issues.
  • Prybar and not a wimpy little piece of shit.
  • 3 lb shop hammer with an unbreakable handle
  • Very high quality Crescent wrench or similar.
  • Breaker pipe, tube, etc. Or, long handle breaker style normal ratchet in 1/2 and 3/8" square drive. Unwieldy for some stuff, needed for other stuff.
  • 18" aluminum pipe wrench, Rigid or equivalent quality.
  • Alignment punch. You could carry an alignment pry bar but I find that sometimes you need both at the same time.
  • Hose puller like this. I use it like a big dental pick more than anything else like for cotter pins etc cleaning snap ring grooves etc. Becomes pretty important for those of us that wheel in the cold.
  • A small multi-meter. There are some cool pen style ones now that take up no more space than a test light and is more versatile.
  • Wrench in 12 point or ratcheting wrench for the CPS. Lowest profile possible.
  • 6-point wrench for bleeders on the calipers
  • Wrench for banjo bolts. Line wrench for all flare fittings.
  • Tools for pulling fan shroud and radiator.
  • High quality normal size vise-grips, I prefer the Milwaukee versions.
If you need to add to this in any way @mrblaine, let me know.
 
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More Blaine additions:

Prybar and not a wimpy little piece of shit.
3 lb shop hammer with an unbreakable handle
Very high quality Crescent wrench or similar.
Breaker pipe, tube, etc. Or, long handle breaker style normal ratchet in 1/2 and 3/8" square drive. Unwieldy for some stuff, needed for other stuff.
18" aluminum pipe wrench, Rigid or equivalent quality.

Some tools I would add:
Alignment punch. You could carry an alignment pry bar but I find that sometimes you need both at the same time.
Hose puller like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08528QH3F/?tag=wranglerorg-20 I use it like a big dental pick more than anything else like for cotter pins etc cleaning snap ring grooves etc. Becomes pretty important for those of us that wheel in the cold.
A small multi-meter. There are some cool pen style ones now that take up no more space than a test light and is more versatile.
 
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I like this. I am one that packs too much crap.
It is far too easy to do. I definitely been guilty of that as it is very easy wheeling in an environment like up here where you are far away from any resources. But adding all that weight preparing for the "might happens" just takes away from your Jeeps overall performance.
 
It is far too easy to do. I definitely been guilty of that as it is very easy wheeling in an environment like up here where you are far away from any resources. But adding all that weight preparing for the "might happens" just takes away from your Jeeps overall performance.

Yup. I’ve always been that way though. I always tried to take enough stuff to cover every scenario, lol
 
Thanks to @psrivats for recommending this as a resource and thanks to @mrblaine for putting it together. Many people have trail tool kits that are way too big and in turn they are carrying way more than they need to. This should help with those that need to put their trail tool kits on a diet.

There are not but a small handful of sockets you need anyway for trail repairs.
  • 12 point 13mm 1/2" drive socket and a spare.
  • Lug nut removal sockets and extensions.
  • Specialty bits for the hub kit.
  • Control arm sockets both sizes.
  • 2-3 Torx bits for stuff like the throttle body etc. that can't be done any other way and that includes the Tamper version for the ignition switch.
  • 13mm ratchet wrench to spin out the knuckle bolts a bit faster, not required but convenient.
  • Diff cover sockets and drive shaft pinion yoke tools.
  • Lug nut socket typically removes nuts on tie rod ends.
  • Phillips #2 in a very quality version for taking the dash apart to get to wiring issues.
  • Prybar and not a wimpy little piece of shit.
  • 3 lb shop hammer with an unbreakable handle
  • Very high quality Crescent wrench or similar.
  • Breaker pipe, tube, etc. Or, long handle breaker style normal ratchet in 1/2 and 3/8" square drive. Unwieldy for some stuff, needed for other stuff.
  • 18" aluminum pipe wrench, Rigid or equivalent quality.
  • Alignment punch. You could carry an alignment pry bar but I find that sometimes you need both at the same time.
  • Hose puller like this. I use it like a big dental pick more than anything else like for cotter pins etc cleaning snap ring grooves etc. Becomes pretty important for those of us that wheel in the cold.
  • A small multi-meter. There are some cool pen style ones now that take up no more space than a test light and is more versatile.
If you need to add to this in any way @mrblaine, let me know.

I was just trying to help Garrett trim some fat. The list isn't even close to conclusive, just a basic start. It needs the two combination wrenches to back up the bolt heads on the control arms. In his case, those are 13/16" and 7/8". If he doesn't want to carry the heavy wrenches in that size, then he can substitute the two sockets in 3/8 and 1/2" drive so he can use both ratchets to undo or tighten a control arm bolt. The Crescent needs to be large enough to work on his jam nuts on the lower control arms.

Wrench in 12 point or ratcheting wrench for the CPS. Lowest profile possible.

6 point wrench for bleeders on the calipers

Wrench for banjo bolts. Line wrench for all flare fittings.

Tools for pulling fan shroud and radiator.

High quality normal size vise-grips, I prefer the Milwaukee versions.

More as I think of it.
 
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It is far too easy to do. I definitely been guilty of that as it is very easy wheeling in an environment like up here where you are far away from any resources. But adding all that weight preparing for the "might happens" just takes away from your Jeeps overall performance.

It is a tough lesson to learn. I think we all at some point carried way too much stuff. I know guys with rear Dana 44's who carried spare Dana 35 axle shafts as self defense due to being on trail with someone who broke one and didn't have a spare. I finally decided I'm carrying parts that fit my rig, if they happen to work on someone else's rig, they are welcome to them. I'm not going to be a rolling NAPA Trail parts truck, and I'm not going to be the the Snap-on trail truck and started paring down to mostly the necessary stuff.

Anyone looking at Garrett's list of suggestions needs to understand that he and I wheel in similar fashion. We aren't a couple of hours from civilization. Help if needed isn't that far away and neither are the stores. If that isn't how your situation is, alter the list accordingly.
 
Thoughts on most convenient, flexible, or useful way to carry the kits you have assembled? Personally, I favor an ammo can and a cloth tool bag with a chunk of wood in the bottom to help it keep shape.
 
a couple questions:
Prybar, what size/style is recommended?
Pipe wrench, Forgive my ignorance but what would it be used for?
Alignment punch, what size? What about using the philips screw driver?

I carry needle nose pliers and a terminal crimp/wire stripper/wire cutter combo tool
 
Thoughts on most convenient, flexible, or useful way to carry the kits you have assembled? Personally, I favor an ammo can and a cloth tool bag with a chunk of wood in the bottom to help it keep shape.

I pack 2 tool rolls in a tool bag with large items at the bottom of the tool bag.
 
a couple questions:
Prybar, what size/style is recommended?
Pipe wrench, Forgive my ignorance but what would it be used for?
Alignment punch, what size? What about using the philips screw driver?

I carry needle nose pliers and a terminal crimp/wire stripper/wire cutter combo tool

I carry a pry bar around 36” long, I originally used it for removing sway bar links before I went to a swayloc. I keep it with me in case I need to move a large item or sheet metal. I made 2 ring mounts it slides into when I open my tailgate. Pipe wrench I would assume for jam nuts on control arms or adjusting tie rod or drag link. I carry one of these, it seem to have less interference when I’m tightening the jam nuts and a pipe or high lift handle will slip over it easily for more leverage. I also carry an old window shade from my pickup to lay on if you got to work under the Jeep around sharp plants or to avoid crawling back in the driver seat covered in dirt. Folds up and sits between roll bar and hardtop.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TDGHF0/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
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Thoughts on most convenient, flexible, or useful way to carry the kits you have assembled? Personally, I favor an ammo can and a cloth tool bag with a chunk of wood in the bottom to help it keep shape.
the small zippered bags are good for groups of tools, wrenches and pliers in one, sockets and ratchets in another. In the office/school supply area at walmart, theyre pretty sturdy.
334AD6EA-BA59-4FB6-83D7-6248C83BC77D.jpeg

I put all my tools and spares in this bag. $15(?) at harbor freight. The bottom is stiff
8B9E9307-A877-41ED-9C51-2D500BCE8B63.jpeg
 
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