Top Coat F-11, Hype or Miracle?

Tray Burge

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I finally broke down and ordered this product after going to their web site and never completing my order out of uncertainty.

I'm sure there's other products that work as well (maybe?) but I'm here to tell you, no matter the cost, this stuff works!

It's a miracle cure for black plastic and rubber trim, the first coat never sinks in, splotches or dissipates like most other trim restorer does.

I applied mine with an applicator pad, so once the pad was soaked I rarely had to re-wet it.

I'm on my 4th coat, letting them cure 24hrs between coats on my truck and Jeep (including wheels) and still have 3/4 of the 16oz bottle left (comes with 18oz total for $65.00+$10 for shipping=$75.00 total).

You have to wash your vehicle with pure water after because car wash will "cut" the ceramic glazing off, no big deal to me as this is the only way I washed my vehicles for years and only went with car wash that included wax over the last few years for protection (it works, somewhat).

The glazing (when applied with an applicator pad) goes on in a somewhat greasy consistency, doing it in sections you then just buff it off with a dry towel and it immediately gets as slippery as "owl shit on wet slippery elm branch."

You must clay bar prior to using, but the product does not cover, hide or mask rain spots in any manner as advertised. Those would have to be "color corrected" prior to using if this is your intent.

The product does "stack" and is very evident when used on the black trim, not so evident on the paint if your paint is already
wet looking, but the depth does get deeper with each coat.

I really noticed the difference on my Jeep when applied. The Jeep's paint was always shiny, but not wet looking like my truck until after using this product. Now it's developing a deep, wet look and the trim is looking phenomenal after 4 applications on both vehicles.

The true test to me will be the longevity after time and rain. This will determine if I buy it again, if it holds up, it's worth the money for sure.

You be the judge, here are some photos I took this morning.



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Thank you, my truck has always had that wet look and now it looks deeper and deeper with each coat I apply. However, the Jeep hasn't, it's always been shiny but not wet looking. So far I'm very impressed with the Top Coat, time will tell all though.
I love the fact I can apply it to all services and just buff to a shine, the trim has never looked better on either vehicle.
 
Have you washed it yet after the wax job? That will give you kind of an idea what you've got. It does look good though, that's for sure.
No issues on the window rubber etc?
 
Have you washed it yet after the wax job? That will give you kind of an idea what you've got. It does look good though, that's for sure.
No issues on the window rubber etc?
No wash yet, still clean and still applying coats, has to cure 24hrs between each coat.
Just the opposite, it works like a miracle on the rubber, plastic and windows!
That's one of the reasons I wanted to try it.
It's not a wax though, it's a polymer glaze like ceramic coating.
 
Sorry to burst your bubble but I have some experience with this crap and its just that, crap. It does provide decent gloss for a short period of time but it'll eventually break down and you'll see runs where water has essentially rinsed it off.

My suggestion is to get CarPro Reload as its a legit ceramic coating topper but can be used stand-alone for 6 months of protection, provide even better gloss, and wont rinse off. My LJ I have corrected and ceramic coated using Cquartz UK 3.0 and topped with Reload.

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Sorry to burst your bubble but I have some experience with this crap and its just that, crap. It does provide decent gloss for a short period of time but it'll eventually break down and you'll see runs where water has essentially rinsed it off.

My suggestion is to get CarPro Reload as its a legit ceramic coating topper but can be used stand-alone for 6 months of protection, provide even better gloss, and wont rinse off. My LJ I have corrected and ceramic coated using Cquartz UK 3.0 and topped with Reload.

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No bubble burst buddy, thanks for the feedback, but I think I'll make my own decision after my experience.
Maybe it works, maybe it doesn't, maybe you didn't apply it and cure it correctly? I don't know?
I'm open minded, we'll see with time. I'm no advocate for Top Coat, just impressed so far.
 
No bubble burst buddy, thanks for the feedback, but I think I'll make my own decision after my experience.
Maybe it works, maybe it doesn't, maybe you didn't apply it and cure it correctly? I don't know?
I'm open minded, we'll see with time. I'm no advocate for Top Coat, just impressed so far.

I don't want to come across as a dick but Ive been detailing for years, 3 of them professionally with extensive training classes. The downside to these products is their immediate results vs longevity and giving false promise of protection. The industry is filled with these products. Everywhere I look there's another magic bottle that will make your old car look brand new with a bottle sliding off the hood. Its still nowhere near the hardness of true ceramic or even silica sprays. Tons of tests have shown this product as the first to fail durability tests. In fact a simple IPA solution will remove all the work and money you did. Again, not trying to be a dick but rather educate on what this product actually is.
 
I don't want to come across as a dick but Ive been detailing for years, 3 of them professionally with extensive training classes. The downside to these products is their immediate results vs longevity and giving false promise of protection. The industry is filled with these products. Everywhere I look there's another magic bottle that will make your old car look brand new with a bottle sliding off the hood. Its still nowhere near the hardness of true ceramic or even silica sprays. Tons of tests have shown this product as the first to fail durability tests. In fact a simple IPA solution will remove all the work and money you did. Again, not trying to be a dick but rather educate on what this product actually is.
Is there something that can be used on all the trim and paint together that will last till the next wash/application (typically next wash for me is every month or so)?
Like I said, I'm not a Top Coat spokesperson, but was impressed with the fact you can use it on all surfaces and would bail once I see it doesn't hold up.
What holds up well and can be used on all services? Does it exist?
Someone had suggested 303 Recreational & Marine, how good is this stuff on longevity? I know the 303 Aerospace doesn't hold up already.
Thanks
 
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Is there something that can be used on all the trim and paint together that will last till the next wash/application (typically next wash for me is every month or so)?
Like I said, I'm not a Top Coat spokesperson, but was impressed with the fact you can use it on all surfaces and would bail once I see it doesn't hold up.
What holds up well and can be used on all services? Does it exist?
Thanks

Yes and no, there are some that will help but restoring paint is different from plastics. Your paint appears to be in rather good condition or the Top Coat is hiding the defects which is due to the fillers it contains. Going with the paint in good condition, Carpro Reload is a really good, spray on wipe off silica sealant that will actually provide protection from UV rays and other contaminants. For plastics, I just tried GTechniqs newer product C4 which gave me great results which you can control with the number of coats and the duration of time you the let product absorb.

Taking these two products into consideration, as examples, the process would be just as you did with TopCoat, strip wash, Decon, and protect. You can do a correction process if you'd like for the paint. Then apply C4 to all the plastics until you have achieved the desired gloss level and color. Reload CAN be used on everything, plastics, paint, glass, and will give plastics a little more depth and protection. So, while yes Reload will protect everything, you still want a specific product for plastics if they're really faded. If your plastics are in good shape, Reload will bring some life back into them.

Then, every wash, P&S Beadmaker will be a product that will also go on top of everything to give a superficial layer of protection, provide even more gloss, and won't rinse off in the rain. It's actually a decent stand-alone product as well, but I prefer something more resilient like Reload.
 
Think I'll give this stuff a try next time around then, certainly in the same ballpark as far as cost.
The TopCoat did not hide any imperfections like advertised either by the way (my paint is just in good condition).
I still have some water spots that I was hoping the TopCoat would hide and didn't. I don't think anything short of a color correction will get the stains to come out of my truck.
I've tried everything from a heavy cut up to and including polishing with a polisher and the spots remain.
Is a color correction the only way to get rid of the water stains?
I appreciate all your help by the way.
Tray
 
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Think I'll give this stuff a try next time around then, certainly in the same ballpark as far as cost.
The TopCoat did not hide any imperfections like advertised either by the way (my paint is just in good condition).
I still have some water spots that I was hoping the TopCoat would hide and didn't. I don't think anything short of a color correction will get the stains to come out of my truck.
I've tried everything from a heavy cut up to and including polishing with a polisher and the spots remain.
Is a color correction the only way to get rid of the water stains?
I appreciate all your help by the way.
Tray

No problem, always happy to help.

There are some water spot remover products out there but if heavy cut compound aren't getting them out I probably wouldn't bother with the next step unless you're comfortable and have a good infrared thermometer. The next steps involves using a heat gun or hair dryer to heat the paint up rather than using the abrasive from compound to and then while the paint is hot, you polish. You'll need to be pretty comfortable with polishing and you'll need some type of infrared thermometer to constantly measure the heat so you don't burn through the clear coat.
 
No problem, always happy to help.

There are some water spot remover products out there but if heavy cut compound aren't getting them out I probably wouldn't bother with the next step unless you're comfortable and have a good infrared thermometer. The next steps involves using a heat gun or hair dryer to heat the paint up rather than using the abrasive from compound to and then while the paint is hot, you polish. You'll need to be pretty comfortable with polishing and you'll need some type of infrared thermometer to constantly measure the heat so you don't burn through the clear coat.
Yeah, now your getting into Clint Eastwood territory, "A mans got to know his limitations" lol
I think I'll just live with the water spots for now.
I'll be getting some of the
Cquartz UK 3.0 and CarPro Reload once this stuff starts to break down, thanks for your help.
That's the reason I started this thread to begin with, to find out what others had to say that had experience with it and if anybody had better results with anything else.
 
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I don't want to come across as a dick but Ive been detailing for years, 3 of them professionally with extensive training classes. The downside to these products is their immediate results vs longevity and giving false promise of protection. The industry is filled with these products. Everywhere I look there's another magic bottle that will make your old car look brand new with a bottle sliding off the hood. Its still nowhere near the hardness of true ceramic or even silica sprays. Tons of tests have shown this product as the first to fail durability tests. In fact a simple IPA solution will remove all the work and money you did. Again, not trying to be a dick but rather educate on what this product actually is.

What type of soap would you recommend if a vehicle was treated with a ceramic treatment, traditional wax/polish, or a quick, spray and wipe detailer?
 
Yeah, now your getting into Clint Eastwood territory, "A mans got to know his limitations" lol
I think I'll just live with the water spots for now.
I'll be getting some of the
Cquartz UK 3.0 and CarPro Reload once this stuff starts to break down, thanks for your help.
That's the reason I started this thread to begin with, to find out what others had to say that had experience with it and if anybody had better results with anything else.

Remember Cquartz is an actual ceramic coating and does require some extra care on the application. Start with washing the Jeep with a stripper soap to remove any waxes/coatings. then do an iron remover, clay process. If you're doing any paint correction, that'd be your next step. It seems your paint is in good shape so depending on the results you're looking for, you can skip it or do a light polish. Diminishing polishes are great as you can do a light compound and polish with one product saving a ton of time. If you're not going for perfection, this is the route Id go. Important step is next. Wipe down all surfaces with Carpro Eraser which is Carpro's IPA based product. This will remove the oils left behind from the polish. While not necessary but in my opinion important, stick with the same company for ceramics and panel wipe. Reason being, they've been designed to work together. Many people believe Eraser with Cquartz allows for better adhesion coming from the same company. I recommend two coats, hour in between and reload and hr after second coat. No washes for 7 days, no rain for 1-2 days. Monthly washes with Carpro Reset or Adams shampoo, apply Reload monthly and Beadmaker with every wash. Seems excessive but it'll take your 2-3 year coating well beyond on that.

Lots of good YouTube videos on the process if you're unfamiliar.


What type of soap would you recommend if a vehicle was treated with a ceramic treatment, traditional wax/polish, or a quick, spray and wipe detailer?

Lots of good soaps, I like Carpro Reset and Adams shampoo. Important thing is PH neutral. I avoid anything with added waxes or coatings inside the soap. They streak and are mainly gimmicks.
 
Thanks guys, some really valuable info here. AndrewLJR, appreciate you taking the time to chime in, its obvious you know a thing or two or three or four or... about this stuff, you've givien us some really valuable information here.
Tray
 
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Thanks guys, some really valuable info here. AndrewLJR, appreciate you taking the time to chime in, its obvious you know a thing or two or three or four or... about this stuff, you've givien us some really valuable information here.
Tray

No problem. Its my inner OCD that comes out with detailing! Im even worse OCD with my M6
 
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An M3 almost broke up my marriage 20 years ago. lol
FWIW, Look what just came in yesterday! From CarCovers.com, their Platinum level cover, at least I'm set now.
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