Not to mention 1/3 of the spec is metric and 1/3 is imperial. Such a stupid way to describe a tire. When you are looking for a tire replacement a key factor, the tire diameter, isn't on the label. Who cares about the profile height? That's what you should have to calculate. Great example of spitting in the consumers face. Ha ha, we are going to label a tire so you are required to perform a unit conversion and multiply some stuff just to find if the tire will fit.I can’t believe someone doesn’t enjoy
Width / 25.4 x aspect ratio x 2 + wheel dia = height
Torque Wrench Suggestions?
- Thread starter TJim
- Start date
Yeah, lighter stuff I just do by hand with a 3/8 and call it good. Not the best but it works. Though that’s a good way to strip a cylinder head and be in for a world of hurt if you screw up.
Right, it does require a little bit of critical thinking. Maybe I was giving to much credit there.I was just quoting this bro!
Imagine being told that by someone who took the wheels off your loved one’s car to inspect the brakes and then torqued the lug nuts with “time” and “feel.”
View attachment 154608
I have an old Craftsman torque wrench. It is held together with a zip tie. Since there is discussion of these things I thought I'd test it out to see how it works today. I bought it around 1990 to torque head bolts the first time I replaced a head gasket.
Seems fine to me. In the end it appears like it would evenly torque something like head bolts today. The part that makes me a bit nervous is only getting 44 set at 50 but I think by feel I'd know that was low but who knows?
The notion that just because you aren't using a torque wrench you aren't using the torque specs doesn't seem right to me. Like @toximus said early on, do it by feel. That is not ignoring specs, it's simply understanding what a 40lb weight feels like and what 1 foot is. If you aren't able to tell what fraction of a foot your wrench is, if you can't judge weights by feel then sure, get a torque wrench. To me it seems a little bit much to imply the average Jeeper needs a torque wrench for the majority of fasteners on a Jeep or even to learn correct torque. It's really not something I've heard in the automotive world before.
| Set Torque (ft/lbs) | Measured Torque (ft/lbs) |
| 30 | 32 |
| 50 | 44 |
| 70 | 78 |
| 90 | 95 |
Seems fine to me. In the end it appears like it would evenly torque something like head bolts today. The part that makes me a bit nervous is only getting 44 set at 50 but I think by feel I'd know that was low but who knows?
The notion that just because you aren't using a torque wrench you aren't using the torque specs doesn't seem right to me. Like @toximus said early on, do it by feel. That is not ignoring specs, it's simply understanding what a 40lb weight feels like and what 1 foot is. If you aren't able to tell what fraction of a foot your wrench is, if you can't judge weights by feel then sure, get a torque wrench. To me it seems a little bit much to imply the average Jeeper needs a torque wrench for the majority of fasteners on a Jeep or even to learn correct torque. It's really not something I've heard in the automotive world before.
That sucks! Assuming it was properly used, it should not have broken. At home I have a Snap-On that is 40+ years old and it still performs as new. I also have two newer CDI's that I have had zero issues with. I have never heard of one failing, but I suppose all brands have failures.
Here I have two cheap Tekton torque wrenches that keep the dog from the door and get used often with zero issues as well.
For $90 you are probably more than halfway there to replacement.
Yeah, by the time they throw parts and shipping on it, ordering a new one makes more sense.
They are a Snap-On company and do have a good reputation to protect. Perhaps you can appeal to their sense of pride and get them to at least repair it for free.
While I rarely have tools break, I have found most US manufacturers to be pretty flexible on warranty.