Torque Wrench Suggestions?

[Fouledplugs]

Hey everyone!

Do you have any suggestions (brand or anything) for a torque wrench? I need it mostly for fluid changes, but any other possible use too.

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Component​

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Part​

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N⋅m​

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ft⋅lb​

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Engine​

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Oil Pan Drain Plug​

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27​

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20​

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Engine​

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Oil Filter​

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20​

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15​

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Transmission​

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Drain & Fill Plug​

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34​

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25​

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Transfer Case​

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Drain & Fill Plug​

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20-34​

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15-20​

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Differential​

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Fill Plug​

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34​

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25​

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Differential​

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Cover Bolt​

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41​

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30​

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So, I am interested in a Torque Wrench, not too expensive, as reliable as possible, that I can easily torque correctly the above components.

Check out gearwrench they have some nice ones and nice reviews. I’m planning on picking a few up for the at home garage. Im confident Gearwrench, Craftsman, or Husky would be great for the at home user and those brands shouldnt break the bank.

Be proud for having the desire to do it right and building confidence in your craft.

 

[toximus]

Are you proposing a competition?
If so, 50 subjects, 25 for me and 25 for you.
My group will use my advise, which is "Yes to a torque wrench"
Yours will go with the "feeling".

At the end of the project we will see which group stripped/snapped/cracked most bolts and parts.

Anyone wants to donate their Jeep?

OP clearly stated that he is looking for a "not too expensive" torque wrench and mentioned using it for a very limited set of tasks... Like I said, I've had bad experiances with cheap torque wrenches costing more in damage than it would be to buy a quality torque wrench to begin with. I don't care if it happens 50% of the time, even if it happens 1% of the time it's a huge pain that can be avoided and would probably never rear it's head in your competition.

If he buys a cheapo torque wrench that fails he could strip out a diff cover bolt because he'd keep going where as if he was using a ratchet he'd feel that it was getting tight and not keep going. So long as he's not using a 3ft breaker bar to tighten them but rather a 6-7" ratchet he should be able to feel what is snug.

 

[pagrey]

Imagine being told that by someone who took the wheels off your loved one’s car to inspect the brakes and then torqued the lug nuts with “time” and “feel.”

If you don't use a torque wrench to tighten your lugs a small kitten will die!

 

[BlueFl.Wrangler]

Makes you wonder why automotive engineers waste their time putting together owners manuals with torque specs printed in them.

Now now-—-you know why they do that-—
CYA for insurance purposes

 

[TJ2]

I thought we are talking about the spark plugs. I still do not use a torque wrench for the spark plugs, the oil filter and the oil drain plug as well.
But for the rest I use the right torque using the right torque wrench

 

[Apparition]

Harbor freight torque wrenches perform very well.

I used to spec out torque for every bolt I put on a drawing, but our service guys always used German torque, guden tite.

But I know owners manuals can be wrong because on my Raptor 700R they spec’d dry torque for the oil pan, when oil was on the threads you’d strip the threads before you’d hit that torque.

 

[JEEPCJTJ]

Same here, nothing wrong with the old beam/needle style, it works well with lug nuts and higher torques. They work well with larger bolts, because lets be honest 1 ft*lb will never matter.

A 3/8 drive beam style can easily get you within 5 ft lbs as long as you pay attention.

The clicker style makes it really easy to know when you get to whatever setting you choose. Unfortunately knowing if that click is anywhere near the actual torque value you need is another story.

I have both and much prefer the beam.

 

[TJim]

This is a great example of why the metric system sucks. 25 foot pounds. Most of us have been to the gym, we know what 25lbs feels like. Most of us know how long a foot is, just look down. Put them together and you have 25 foot pounds. Now can anybody tell me what the hell I'm supposed to do with a newton?

View attachment 154447
(just kidding, I like the metric system just as much as newtons)

I know you are kidding, but I wanted to give a different perspective. I am from Greece, I use metric system in almost every aspect of my life and have come across the imperial system very few times. I try to become familiar with both of them as much as I can, but I am not gonna lie, its much easier for me to convert in my mind how much a Kg, or a meter is, than a Pound, or a feet is. So 10 Newtons on Earth () is always very very close to 1 Kg. So 1 N≈0.1Kg.

An example though, where metric system is quite confusing is the tire sizing. Its much simpler to understand faster the tire size using the Imperial system, as long as you know basic imperial system units, such as inches. (which I have to admit not MANY people on countries that use metric system do)

Its all matter of how you are used to I am supposed. Sorry for the long post. I just wanted to give a different perspective.

 

[WallyWest]

Imagine being told that by someone who took the wheels off your loved one’s car to inspect the brakes and then torqued the lug nuts with “time” and “feel.”

I'd prefer that to the guys who just run them on at full power with an impact wrench.

I do lug nuts by feel and have never had them come off, nor have I ever snapped/stripped a stud. I use a two foot breaker bar to tighten them down. I always check them after my car is inspected and based on what it usually takes to get them off I can only assume most shops use a 3000 ft/lb impact to put them on.

In any case I have a couple Tekton torque wrenches, the largest going up to 250 ft/lbs. I had their calibration checked and they were all fine. I only use them for critical stuff on the engine or suspension. But if you had no experience with things like lug nuts and drain plugs it would certainly be a good idea to use one for a while.

 

[BoldlyGoing]

Imagine being told that by someone who took the wheels off your loved one’s car to inspect the brakes and then torqued the lug nuts with “time” and “feel.”

Makes you wonder why automotive engineers waste their time putting together owners manuals with torque specs printed in them.

In all the tires I've changed, it's been the opposite direction more often than not.

Last weekend, we were swapping tires on to an '04 LJ my neighbor just bought. The damned lug nuts were so tight, I had to put a 4' cheater on the breaker bar just to break them loose. Seems like the PO thought those dinky little 28" street tires needed to be extra-double-plus-tight.

Decided new studs and nuts were probably in order after that nonsense.

 

[BoldlyGoing]

OP clearly stated that he is looking for a "not too expensive" torque wrench and mentioned using it for a very limited set of tasks... Like I said, I've had bad experiances with cheap torque wrenches costing more in damage than it would be to buy a quality torque wrench to begin with. I don't care if it happens 50% of the time, even if it happens 1% of the time it's a huge pain that can be avoided and would probably never rear it's head in your competition.

If he buys a cheapo torque wrench that fails he could strip out a diff cover bolt because he'd keep going where as if he was using a ratchet he'd feel that it was getting tight and not keep going. So long as he's not using a 3ft breaker bar to tighten them but rather a 6-7" ratchet he should be able to feel what is snug.

The best way I've heard what you're saying expressed is "Remember what you're trying to accomplish."

Meaning there's no need to get out a torque wrench for the oil drain plug. Just remember that all you are trying to do is keep the oil inside. Don't leave it loose, but also no need to pretend you're going to be hanging off of it

 

[TJ2]

Imagine being told that by someone who took the wheels off your loved one’s car to inspect the brakes and then torqued the lug nuts with “time” and “feel.”

Makes you wonder why automotive engineers waste their time putting together owners manuals with torque specs printed in them.

Fouledplugs.

The OP is not asking about the lug nuts.
He was mostly asking about oil related bolts and spark plugs.
My hand is calibrated for those kind of assemblies, learned it in my teens.

 

[Apparition]

I know you are kidding, but I wanted to give a different perspective. I am from Greece, I use metric system in almost every aspect of my life and have come across the imperial system very few times. I try to become familiar with both of them as much as I can, but I am not gonna lie, its much easier for me to convert in my mind how much a Kg, or a meter is, than a Pound, or a feet is. So 10 Newtons on Earth () is always very very close to 1 Kg. So 1 N≈1Kg.

An example though, where metric system is quite confusing is the tire sizing. Its much simpler to understand faster the tire size using the Imperial system, as long as you know basic imperial system units, such as inches. (which I have to admit not MANY people on countries that use metric system do)

Its all matter of how you are used to I am supposed. Sorry for the long post. I just wanted to give a different perspective.

I can’t believe someone doesn’t enjoy
Width / 25.4 x aspect ratio x 2 + wheel dia = height

 

[Fouledplugs]

Fouledplugs.

The OP is not asking about the lug nuts.
He was mostly asking about oil related bolts and spark plugs.
My hand is calibrated for those kind of assemblies, learned it in my teens.

You have calibrated blinders on too. The lug nuts were an example...

 

[Cornbread]

Imagine being told that by someone who took the wheels off your loved one’s car to inspect the brakes and then torqued the lug nuts with “time” and “feel.”

Makes you wonder why automotive engineers waste their time putting together owners manuals with torque specs printed in them.

OP never listed lug nuts, just oil level check plug, drain plugs etc. I would encourage getting a torque if the OP doesn't have the experience but I wouldn't be buying a cheap one either. Bash me all you want but 95% of the typical maintenance, bolt-ons etc I do doesn't need a torque wrench.

There are reasons why they make short ratchets, medium ratchets, short breaker bars, and long breaker bars. I make sure each drive set (1/4", 3/8", 1/2", and 3/4") to have a variety of lengths of socket wrenches. Using a 1/2" drive bar when you should be using 3/8" standard ratchet is a big mistake. This is the sort of experience I talk of.

If you don't have some understanding of what a foot pound feels like then what happens when you set the torque wrench wrong or the torque wrench falls out of calbibration?

Also I agree with you on the loved one's thing, but everytime a shop has tightened my lug nuts I'm more worried about the studs breaking off than the nuts falling off.

 

[KingCarGuyZ]

Sorry it took me so long, but here is the one I got from amazon, it’s called a texton great wrench hasn’t let me down, I have the 10-150 version but they also have a 25-250. Ibft of course. I recommend the 1/2 cause most of what your gonna want to torque is gonna be larger, but if your doing smaller stuff you might want 3/8. I don’t have a 3/8, I just use the “how many grunts” count for that. Not the best but it works. Anyway, here are some pics of it.

Oh and here is the link for amazon, it’s like 40 bucks. Pretty good deal.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C5ZL0RU/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[TJ2]

I will not use that for spark plugs.
I say anything less than 25 ft-lb. which is what the OP was asking for opinions.

 

[TJ2]

You have calibrated blinders on too. The lug nuts were an example...

I was just quoting this bro!

Imagine being told that by someone who took the wheels off your loved one’s car to inspect the brakes and then torqued the lug nuts with “time” and “feel.”

 

[Flivver250]

CDI makes a good one. Made in USA

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LA1EDO/?tag=wranglerorg-20

 

[Apparition]

CDI makes a good one. Made in USA

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LA1EDO/?tag=wranglerorg-20

Broke mine trying to crush a crush sleeve, they want $90 just to look at it in order to determine if it’s fixable.