Trouble connecting lower control arms

hear

hear

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Working on installing a zone offroad 4" suspension lift. I don't know if you're familiar with this kit, but it comes with 4 non-adjustable lower control arms. They're about an inch longer than stock. I've done my share of research (by which I mean googling a bunch) and it seems like for the most part people don't have any trouble connecting up their control arms. I've helped a friend do 2 XJ lifts, and we've struggled mightily to get the arms such that the bolts would go through. We end up using multiple jacks and all other manner of improvisation to get the things to line up. It's not fun.

On the TJ, I already have the new springs in, and the LCAs are still connected...or rather re-connected...and we had a heck of a time again getting things lined up. I don't see how longer control arms are even possible using the amateur techniques we've been using. Currently the track bar is disconnected, as are the steering components. So the shocks, springs, & upper/lower control arms are still connected (this is all on the front, the rear hasn't been touched yet).

So my question is what is the best/proper technique to get these control arms swapped out? The jeep is on the ground, I don't have access to a lift, in case that changes your answer. I'm sure we're doing it the hard way, and would love to be educated on the easy way. One at a time? Both together? Hoping to finish the install tomorrow night, hopefully the experts will chime in. Once we solve that, somebody can hopefully explain to me how to set these cam bolts properly, cuz that's another mystery currently.


Side question which I hope does not derail the thread: I assumed the new control arms were to adjust the pinion angle, but it seems like longer arms would push the pinion angle down, not up. I only have a physics degree, so please ELI5.
 
A ratchet strap to pull the axle and jacking various parts up or down has always worked for me. Also a big punch/lineup tool into the holes. Can try to chock the tires in place (if still installed) when holes lines up with a punch.

Dont forget to WAIT to tighten all the bolts until the entire weight of the vehicle is back on the ground.
 
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Vtx531 said:
A ratchet strap to pull the axle and jacking various parts up or down has always worked for me. Also a big punch/lineup tool into the holes. Can try to chock the tires in place (if still installed) when holes lines up with a punch.

Dont forget to WAIT to tighten all the bolts until the entire weight of the vehicle is back on the ground.
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A punch wouldn't have helped, I could barely get a paperclip through the tiny portion of hole showing through the other side, at least not until we stumbled on the right combination of jacking & pushing etc. What are you ratchet strapping to?
 
hear said:
A punch wouldn't have helped, I could barely get a paperclip through the tiny portion of hole showing through the other side, at least not until we stumbled on the right combination of jacking & pushing etc. What are you ratchet strapping to?
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From the axles housing to the frame to pull in the direction you need it to move.
 
If you disconnect both lower arms, the axle will rotate. Connect the rear bolt on the lower arms and stick a jack under the shock perch and it will rotate right back into place. No ratchet straps needed. It took me 10 minutes to do mine on my XJ a few months back.
 
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TheBoogieman said:
If you disconnect both lower arms, the axle will rotate. Connect the rear bolt on the lower arms and stick a jack under the shock perch and it will rotate right back into place. No ratchet straps needed. It took me 10 minutes to do mine on my XJ a few months back.
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I’ve seen plenty of people say don’t disconnect both at the same time?

Regardless, you’re saying bolt in the axle side first, and then tussle with the frame side? We’ve been doing it frame side first. Does it make a difference?
 
When I moved my axle forward I put a ratchet strap around the front bumper to pull it into place.
 
hear said:
I’ve seen plenty of people say don’t disconnect both at the same time?

Regardless, you’re saying bolt in the axle side first, and then tussle with the frame side? We’ve been doing it frame side first. Does it make a difference?
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If you don't disconnect both at the same time, the installed new longer arm makes the axle out of square to the frame and that makes it harder to install a new arm. Also, if you chock the front tires on both sides with chocks you can grab a rear tire to move the rig forward or back slightly to tilt the front axle and line up the arms.

I do the axle side first because it is harder to get around the tire to see the bolt holes and line everything up. Frame side is easier to work with.
 
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Ok, we’ve been doing it with the front end in the air, tires off...as well as steering stuff & track bar off since we’re in the process of lifting. You’re saying do it with the jeep fully on the ground?
 
hear said:
Ok, we’ve been doing it with the front end in the air, tires off...as well as steering stuff & track bar off since we’re in the process of lifting. You’re saying do it with the jeep fully on the ground?
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First post says you're doing it on the ground. Either do it on the ground or in the air with the springs out. Springs in with the front up in the air is going to fully suck.
 
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mrblaine said:
First post says you're doing it on the ground. Either do it on the ground or in the air with the springs out. Springs in with the front up in the air is going to fully suck.
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Well it's on the ground as in not on a 4 post lift. I was stating how I was currently doing it, but looking for recommendations on the best/easiest way to do it since our way was painful.

but "springs in with the front in the air is going to fully suck" describes my pain completely. I can predict your response, but the instructions said to install the springs and then immediately said to install the lower control arms. Hmm...it then says to install the new shocks, but I already have those in. That's probably not helping either.
 
hear said:
Well it's on the ground as in not on a 4 post lift. I was stating how I was currently doing it, but looking for recommendations on the best/easiest way to do it since our way was painful.

but "springs in with the front in the air is going to fully suck" describes my pain completely. I can predict your response, but the instructions said to install the springs and then immediately said to install the lower control arms. Hmm...it then says to install the new shocks, but I already have those in. That's probably not helping either.
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Drooped out the axle is shifted to one side as far as it will go. That makes everything painful.
 
Holy crap, that couldn’t have gone any easier. Steering & track bar were still disconnected, but I don’t think it mattered. Vehicle on the ground, put the new LCA in at the axle, then Jacked up the axle under the spring perch, it all moved right into place with no effort.
THANKS!!

now how do I know where to set these cam bolts?
 
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