Trouble with MML bolts, Savvy BL and Under Armor Skid

cpwolf

Texan
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TEXAS - Cedar Park
So I’m putting a motor Mount lift in, after the body lift this morning.

I have spent more than an hour trying to start this bolt. I have the on on the other, any tips would be appreciated .

I’m running solo, might be my problem

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I will say, there is a reason that the oem bolts have the non threaded start section

Raise the motor higher so the ends of the motor mount bolt sleeve aren't fighting you. But, they all tend to either fall right in or fight you every tiny little step of the way. It also helps to loosen the trans mount so the motor can move fore and aft easier.
 
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If you loosen the block bolts it might deflect enough for you to get that bolt started straight. It looks cocked backwards.

Its quite possible you need to do a bunch of grinding to make clearance on that side as well. The block bracket will want to hit the frame horn.

Gf has my jeep right now but I'll get a pic later.
 
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So, I got in the CJ and it’s a great day. Took the dog to 7/11 and got a slurpee, been like 5 years.

So, level set, great points. I’ll raise it and loosen the bolts on the block.

Trans bolts and other side are all loose already.

Thank you, much appreciated thoughts.

I’m big on stepping away and taking a breathe, ha.
 
Raise the motor higher so the ends of the motor mount bolt sleeve aren't fighting you. But, they all tend to either fall right in or fight you every tiny little step of the way. It also helps to loosen the trans mount so the motor can move fore and aft easier.

On it, I’ll get it higher.
 
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I've always done it like Blaine says, where everything is loose when I'm putting that bolt in. Then the battle is putting in the one through the bolt sleeve. I've had my wife come out and help with that one, just tell her where to put the pry bar.
 
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Got ‘em all done. I had them all loose, but they were tight in those ears. Lifting it farther helped to wedge them into alignment.


Drivers side I didn’t take off the bracket, but I loosened all 3 bolts, no need to cut that through through bolt.

Had to get somewhere to watch the CWS, so I’ll torque the through bolts and trans bolts tomorrow and be done, unless I tackle the Savvy Under Armor now ha

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So Savvy 1.25” Body Lift, new crown body mounts, and Savvy 1” MML all on, torque down.

This was all getting done so that I can put the Savvy Under Armor Skid and lift the TC.

Two issues:
1. Put in the GM fuel neck in 2015 when we bought it. The neck won’t extend. Ordered a new OEM style fuel fill neck because I’ll be dropping the tank to fix the rollover valve correctly.

2. The NSG shifter doesn’t have room for the 2-4-6 R gears. Stick hits. So can’t drive until I get the Savvy UA skid on it next weekend. That should move the shift tower up and forest 2 ish inches. If for any reason that doesn’t fix it, then I’ll be working on the lower tunnel cover and the console. Hoping that isn’t necessary.

Finally looks like the 35’s will have the room they need. Without doing high lines, I don’t like that look, just personally .

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2. The NSG shifter doesn’t have room for the 2-4-6 R gears. Stick hits. So can’t drive until I get the Savvy UA skid on it next weekend. That should move the shift tower up and forest 2 ish inches. If for any reason that doesn’t fix it, then I’ll be working on the lower tunnel cover and the console. Hoping that isn’t necessary.

You can heat and bed your NSG370 shift lever. The PO bent mine when he stupidly put a transfer case drop in. I have had to bend it a couple of times as I did mods, like taking the transfer case drop out.
 
living dangerously !!

ha, yeah that sounds funny.

Really it was more like me positioning the pry bar and handing it off to her, and then telling her when to push. It's important not to be under the pry bar while this is happening so as not to take one to the face when it inevitably pops out and falls.

I don't know if that sounds better or not.
 
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So, I’m not ungrateful for this design…but I have to see if I’m missing something.

I didn’t have to dent or bend anything. I got the Savvy UA cross member in…pretty darn easy. I had to disconnect the muffler, but I got it all torqued down with blue loctite as well, and the muffler back connected. The muffler itself, may be slightly touching. It’s a Flowmaster 40, and I’ve got a Walker Quiet Flow coming, just enough of the Hwy drone for me.

The TC, Trans, nothing is touching that I can see. I took card board and ran it over as well, and it moves through the tunnel. I put the Savvy MML and BL on first, just every write up has using a huge nut to bend the tub and crow bar to bend areas, I had to do zero of that.

It’s up and I’m going to measure angles on rear DS and then take it for a ride.

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So I read to pull the whole light, but I put on the radiator core braces and extenders with just taking off the bezel, 3 quick screws.

Tiny bit of masking tape to hold the socket on a wobbler and multiple extensions, super easy.

I had to tape the OEM support to the BL extension, because the tip broke off.

New ones on order, but this seems pretty solid.

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