Trying to decide on new axles

fourmustangs

TJ Enthusiast
Joined
Apr 10, 2017
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Location
Houston, TX, United States
I do currently have stockish 2005 Rubicon dana 44's
5.13s and couple heavier duty control arm brackets and a brake upgrade.

So I have a Gen 3 Hemi/5 spd sitting in the garage to go in at some point. So 340hp.

I also plan on 37s

I want a wider track width 65-68" and better break options jk bolt pattern etc.

I really don't wanna spend 10-12K just on axles, just be sayin...lol I'm estimating $6k for the hemi swap.

I have a friend who I can get some JT rubicon axles from, it was trussed and RCV axles, running same gearing 5.13s
for how cheap I can get those its tempting as he has no issues on 39s. The LJ lighter weight etc.

By the time I sell my TJ Dana 44 axles I'd barely have any money in them, just not sure on what all I'd have to do for suspension modifications.

These axles are just a thought and option. If I planned on going any bigger on tires I wouldnt consider it. Since seen so many TJ's with JK dana 44 swaps
 
what's the construction of the JT axle ? did they fix/improve the C's?
how much castor vs pinion angle is designed into it?
 
Could probably get a Dana 60 and Sterling 10.5 out of a Super Duty for not too much...
Heck a 9.75 from an F150 might even be worth eyeballing if you're willing to innovate
 
I do currently have stockish 2005 Rubicon dana 44's
5.13s and couple heavier duty control arm brackets and a brake upgrade.

So I have a Gen 3 Hemi/5 spd sitting in the garage to go in at some point. So 340hp.

I also plan on 37s

I want a wider track width 65-68" and better break options jk bolt pattern etc.

I really don't wanna spend 10-12K just on axles, just be sayin...lol I'm estimating $6k for the hemi swap.

I have a friend who I can get some JT rubicon axles from, it was trussed and RCV axles, running same gearing 5.13s
for how cheap I can get those its tempting as he has no issues on 39s. The LJ lighter weight etc.

By the time I sell my TJ Dana 44 axles I'd barely have any money in them, just not sure on what all I'd have to do for suspension modifications.

These axles are just a thought and option. If I planned on going any bigger on tires I wouldnt consider it. Since seen so many TJ's with JK dana 44 swaps
One and done, go 60's minimum. If you're okay with redoing stuff later if it doesn't work out, the JT + trusses + RCVs + Disconnect delete + Balljoint deletes would be a good experiment. They're still a light duty axle so they're probably not going to be super robust for 37s + V8. I know i've seen some pictures of the balljoints falling out of numerous JL axles but i think American Offroad addressed those problems with the deletes installing from opposite directions. Depends how you're going to beat on it.
 
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The distance from the ball joint axis to the pinion is less than ideal to get a driveshaft working under a TJ. The axle centers off of the ball joint axis, that puts the pinion where it goes.
Trying to understand this also, are you saying that with the axle to be fully centered off the ball joint axis, the front driveshaft would be angled to one side because the pinion is not in line with the output of the t-case? If that's the case I assume you'd be looking at cutting down full width SD axles, adding to the cost/effort required. How are the guys running full width axles working around this, or are they just ignoring the less-than-ideal geometry?
 
How are the guys running full width axles working around this
x2 here.
i know it's wider, i figured the offset was not perfect, but never have seen it was a problem.
that puts the pinion where it goes

so the pumpkin's gonna end up under something that restricts up travel compared to where a TJ axle was and/or not have a good line at the TC?
 
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Trying to understand this also, are you saying that with the axle to be fully centered off the ball joint axis, the front driveshaft would be angled to one side because the pinion is not in line with the output of the t-case? If that's the case I assume you'd be looking at cutting down full width SD axles, adding to the cost/effort required. How are the guys running full width axles working around this, or are they just ignoring the less-than-ideal geometry?
We assume when we do a build that we will leave very little on the table. We dial in uptravel, wheel travel, steering, and brakes. We know from seeing lots of folks screw up LS swaps that not everyone pays attention to those things so the way they may be getting around stuff is just ignore it and hope it doesn't matter.