New TJ owner, got a good deal = doing lots of work myself to get everything running properly.
This TJ has been in Minnesota its whole life so anxiety was high about un-seizing hardware. Someone HAS to have pulled the wheel not too long ago as the wheel nut came off with no problem. I actually got it loose with, I believe, a 1 1/4” socket I had laying around (initially - I did buy the appropriate 36mm 6 point today). I preemptively bought replacement 13mm hub bolts knowing that would be a nightmare. Two out of three backed out freakishly easily with the 13mm 12pt, the other, I had to pound on a 12mm and stand on it and listen to the squeaks. I should have slowed down and remembered everything people have said - to pull the rotor, expose the hub bolt threads, clean up and spray those threads before cranking on bolt heads. I remembered that detail the moment I heard the bolt snap inside the hub. I’ll spare you the drama
about how I miraculously got that bolt head out through the front of the hub (it involved much hammering, drilling a hole laterally through the bolt, breaking lots of makeshift levers, many types of vices and pliers, I’m trying to forget about it) but I figure I’ll add to the many cautions about hub removal and how everyone should go about it carefully.
Seized up hub, but I reinserted the two unbroken hub bolts and assaulted with hammer, that broke it loose no problem. Again, sorry for what is probably repeat information but anyone reading this who is getting ready to pull the hub for any reason, if you live in a northern state, make sure to read the forums here and watch plenty of videos so you know what to expect and what to prepare for. Question: now that I have the hub off and u-joint/shaft pulled, what else should I look for? How do I know if my wheel bearing is good? It didn’t hum or grind while driving, I could really get much vertical play with the tire on. Nothing seems to be messed up.
2) I’ve got a fair amount of rust halfway up the line toward the transfer case. Then it’s silver and greasy. Should I check for rounded off splines or anything?
And last, I purchased the Spicer 5-760x joint. Will that do the trick?
Thanks for any feedback!
This TJ has been in Minnesota its whole life so anxiety was high about un-seizing hardware. Someone HAS to have pulled the wheel not too long ago as the wheel nut came off with no problem. I actually got it loose with, I believe, a 1 1/4” socket I had laying around (initially - I did buy the appropriate 36mm 6 point today). I preemptively bought replacement 13mm hub bolts knowing that would be a nightmare. Two out of three backed out freakishly easily with the 13mm 12pt, the other, I had to pound on a 12mm and stand on it and listen to the squeaks. I should have slowed down and remembered everything people have said - to pull the rotor, expose the hub bolt threads, clean up and spray those threads before cranking on bolt heads. I remembered that detail the moment I heard the bolt snap inside the hub. I’ll spare you the drama
about how I miraculously got that bolt head out through the front of the hub (it involved much hammering, drilling a hole laterally through the bolt, breaking lots of makeshift levers, many types of vices and pliers, I’m trying to forget about it) but I figure I’ll add to the many cautions about hub removal and how everyone should go about it carefully.
Seized up hub, but I reinserted the two unbroken hub bolts and assaulted with hammer, that broke it loose no problem. Again, sorry for what is probably repeat information but anyone reading this who is getting ready to pull the hub for any reason, if you live in a northern state, make sure to read the forums here and watch plenty of videos so you know what to expect and what to prepare for. Question: now that I have the hub off and u-joint/shaft pulled, what else should I look for? How do I know if my wheel bearing is good? It didn’t hum or grind while driving, I could really get much vertical play with the tire on. Nothing seems to be messed up.
2) I’ve got a fair amount of rust halfway up the line toward the transfer case. Then it’s silver and greasy. Should I check for rounded off splines or anything?
And last, I purchased the Spicer 5-760x joint. Will that do the trick?
Thanks for any feedback!