UCF general questions

StG58

StG58

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Is anyone running Under Cover Fabworks products? The next phase is in the early planning stages and I'm looking for information on quality, fit and finish etc.

The TJ is a 99 SE manual and the build is off the beaten path. Most stock custom parts will need some degree of modification.

Thanks in advance!
 
I am currently in the process of installing the complete UCF skid Plate system in 1/4" steel and the "No Body-Lift Required"; i dont do body lift kits...

Even with the NBL option, it still raises the T-Case up about an 1", which kinda buckles the T-Case shift linkage; but I plan to install a Novak one in the near future. It still works fine; i'll take a picture this weekend, when I get under the car again.

The other main PITA, is the T-Case skid DOES NOT come pre-drilled for the Engine plate skid; so that's gonna be fun punching 4 holes in it this weekend...

It also comes bare, so its up to you if you wanna paint or P-coat it; I went CWP and painted it...
 
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I have the UCF NBL tcase and engine skid. Mine came pre-drilled so,easy install. I also added 1"MML and Novak shifter. All works very nice together. I now have a 1" BL (added to keep tires from rubbing) so wish I had the ultra high clearance skid. Although I've never found a time when I needed that extra 1" yet.
 
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Rob5589 said:
@G-Whiz, few questions; are you running adjustable control arms; are you using their Lo Pro mount; do you have a sye?

Thanks
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Running Stock Arms, but planning on getting the Short Arm kit soon; but dont have any issues with the rear axel so far. I did purchase the rear shock adapters just in case.

Didnt get the Lo Pro Mount, but I should have, would have probably fixed that linkage issue; I still may buy it as insurance, but kinda lazy to drop the skid again, it weighs a ton.. Would have go the Aluminum, but that section of the jeep has taken some serious hits in the past, I felt more comfortable with 1/4" steel. But what would have paid in the cost difference for the aluminum, I will probably pay in gas in the future. hahahaha

I did put in an SYE a few weeks ago, but not for that; more for a future lift plan i have in the future..
 
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Thanks folks! It looks like they have some interesting stuff, and a good reputation on the 'net. Sorry to hear about your hole hassle, @G-Whiz, punching holes can be a pain.

I'm hoping others chime in here, especially those with the aluminum parts...
 
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Rob5589 said:
Aluminum should work great. Savvy builds aluminum skids and there is no doubt they hold up. @Jerry Bransford has the Savvy gas tank skid in aluminum and he says it has taken a beating with no issue.
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I've talked with Savvy about the skid plate system. It's almost a semi-custom install on the 2.5 SE. Good stuff, for sure. The poor SE just don't get no love'n though. Not a large enough market I guess. Or real Jeepers drive 4.0's or something.
 
StG58 said:
I've talked with Savvy about the skid plate system. It's almost a semi-custom install on the 2.5 SE. Good stuff, for sure. The poor SE just don't get no love'n though. Not a large enough market I guess. Or real Jeepers drive 4.0's or something.
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The JKS blocks have an extra couple steps to perform if the 2.5. The 2.4 looks to use the same as the 4.0 motor mount wise, the block brackets are different. The 4.0 being the most popular is surely why they build for it and not the 2.5.
 
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Rob5589 said:
Aluminum should work great. Savvy builds aluminum skids and there is no doubt they hold up. @Jerry Bransford has the Savvy gas tank skid in aluminum and he says it has taken a beating with no issue.
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It's actually unbelievable how my Savvy aluminum gas tank skid plate is still flat after some of its larger teeth-hurting hits it has sustained. That skidplate alone has made a believer out of me on just how protective and strong the right kind of aluminum can be. We're not talking about the type of aluminum used on our grandfather's aluminum screen doors here. Mine is scraped to hell but it's not dented despite it living most of its life on rock crawling trails. :)
 
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That Lo Pro mount does look a little sketchy for damping out vibrations, and the 2.5 isn't the smoothest engine in the paddock to start with. Don't get me wrong, it's not a lawn mower, but it can vibrate a little sometimes. Don't have to worry about that though, it doesn't fit on the 2.5 with manual transmission.

@bobthetj03, I looked at that genright cross member kit. Looks nice! I'll check it out further because the idea of being able to drop the belly skid without getting out the floor jack is really appealing. Really. Appealing.

To my wonder and delight, UCF does have an engine skid to go with their belly skid for the TJ's with a manual transmission and 2.5. No modifications required to either skid to make them work on an SE! WhooHoo! 6061 T-6 aluminum in both, which seems to be pretty standard for aluminum skid plates. The fact they shouldn't be powder coated so the T-6 heat treat doesn't get ruined is kind of a bummer, but I can live with that. (The temperature that powder coat gets baked at is very close to the temperature that aluminum gets heat treated at. No bueno.)

@Jerry Bransford, I was lurking on another thread where you and Blaine were talking about aluminum. Good read as always. You mentioned how well your gas tank skid is holding up. ...and that got me to thinking.

Alrighty then...this may be shaping up.

Thanks again folks!
 
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Unless you want a specific color, aluminum needs nothing on it. Spending money to powdercoat a skid only to scratch it up seems like wasted money.
 
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bobthetj03 said:
I ran his lo pro mount for a few years. Frankly, the added vibes it created wasn't worth the clearance gained. I ended up removing it and sold it. You'd be better off getting Genright's universal cross member setup.

http://genright.com/products/universal-transmission-crossmember-kit.html

Do this with a Barnes 4x4 skid and you'd be $$$ ahead.
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Everything I have read says the same thing, lots of vibration from that mount. I like the idea of having a separate cross member/support. Gives one more options for the skid configuration.
 
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Rob5589 said:
Everything I have read says the same thing, lots of vibration from that mount. I like the idea of having a separate cross member/support. Gives one more options for the skid configuration.
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Someplace on the 'net, I ran across a custom fab job where a TJ owner built a really nice cross member, welded mounting tabs to the frame and used a flat chunk of aluminum plate for the skid. I really need to find that again. It wasn't on Pirate or the other forum with Wrangler in the name IIRC...it was some off the wall local forum. Nice pics and a good explanation of what he did to make it work. The key was a transmission mount from a vehicle that you would never guess. Flat aluminum plate is pretty cheap and easy to obtain.

You're right @Rob5589, painting or powder coating aluminum is not worth the time and energy. I thought I'd throw that out there because I am always surprised how few folks know that powder coating heat treated aluminum is a no-no. ;)
 
bobthetj03 said:
...You're right @Rob5589, painting or powder coating aluminum is not worth the time and energy. I thought I'd throw that out there because I am always surprised how few folks know that powder coating heat treated aluminum is a no-no. ;)
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Wow so obvious now that I think about it but that sure makes sense. Part of the powdercoating process involves the piece going in an oven to cure the paint so it sure could affect its heat treatment.
 
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