UCF transfer case skid upgrade

[MountaineerTom]

Hey @MountaineerTom - I'm glad I found your thread because it sounds very similar to what I'm considering. Currently my LJ is on 33s with a trash spacer lift that the PO put on. When I go wheeling I have to take the front fender flares off so I don't rub, and I've bashed up my skid plate a good bit. I want to do the OME 2" lift (leaning towards HD springs), and I'm looking at the kit from DPG Offroad that comes with Tier 3 Core 4x4 adj control arms because if I can swing that all at once it saves several hundred dollars. Since the DPG kits all come with 1.25" BL and 1"MML, I figured I'd also plan to do a tummy tuck. I'm looking at the UCF steel skids because the Barnes skid only gives you +1", and I'm debating between the 3/16" and 1/4" steel because the aluminum is so much more expensive. Anyway, I'm curious if you have any updates yet, or if you know of something I haven't thought of with the combination of mods I'm considering.

I would get the thicker skid if your budget allows. I got the 3/8” aluminum UCF extra clearance skid.

As far as the body and MML, lots of people have had issues with the JKS body lift pucks squishing down a lot and not being able to get a good torque on them. And then not getting the full 1-1/4 inches worth of lift. Some have had no problems or either didn’t mind the issue. Same thing with the Brown Dog MML. Many got vibrations even with the runner mounts, some had no issues.

I didn’t want to have to redo stuff, so I sold my JKS lift and Brown Dog mounts and got a Savvy body lift and new factory motor mounts and will use JKS spacers to lift them up 1 inch. As a matter of fact, they both are going on today.

You may not need new motor mounts if they are in good shape. I just decided to put new ones one because I’m putting a new transmission mount on whenever I get around to installing the transfer case skid.

There is a thread here with info on how to put together a decent lift using various manufactures parts. I don’t know exactly where it is, but it may be of help.

 

[LincolnJr]

I would get the thicker skid if your budget allows. I got the 3/8” aluminum UCF extra clearance skid.

As far as the body and MML, lots of people have had issues with the JKS body lift pucks squishing down a lot and not being able to get a good torque on them. And then not getting the full 1-1/4 inches worth of lift. Some have had no problems or either didn’t mind the issue. Same thing with the Brown Dog MML. Many got vibrations even with the runner mounts, some had no issues.

I didn’t want to have to redo stuff, so I sold my JKS lift and Brown Dog mounts and got a Savvy body lift and new factory motor mounts and will use JKS spacers to lift them up 1 inch. As a matter of fact, they both are going on today.

You may not need new motor mounts if they are in good shape. I just decided to put new ones one because I’m putting a new transmission mount on whenever I get around to installing the transfer case skid.

There is a thread here with info on how to put together a decent lift using various manufactures parts. I don’t know exactly where it is, but it may be of help.

I didn't realize the JKS BL was poly - I thought it was aluminum like Savvy. And yeah, I'm trying to avoid doing things twice, too. I'll probably get new motor mounts if I'm going to be in there anyway. I always make "while I'm at it" lists...

Thanks for your insights.

 

[freedom_in_4low]

Hey @MountaineerTom - I'm glad I found your thread because it sounds very similar to what I'm considering. Currently my LJ is on 33s with a trash spacer lift that the PO put on. When I go wheeling I have to take the front fender flares off so I don't rub, and I've bashed up my skid plate a good bit. I want to do the OME 2" lift (leaning towards HD springs), and I'm looking at the kit from DPG Offroad that comes with Tier 3 Core 4x4 adj control arms because if I can swing that all at once it saves several hundred dollars. Since the DPG kits all come with 1.25" BL and 1"MML, I figured I'd also plan to do a tummy tuck. I'm looking at the UCF steel skids because the Barnes skid only gives you +1", and I'm debating between the 3/16" and 1/4" steel because the aluminum is so much more expensive. Anyway, I'm curious if you have any updates yet, or if you know of something I haven't thought of with the combination of mods I'm considering.

I'd second Tom's opinion- go with the thick aluminum. I was trying to solve vibration issues so I wanted the weight and I got it. My 1/4" steel UCF extra clearance plate weighs 77 pounds.

if time allows, try to do it all in one shot to minimize the time you spend screwing around with pinion angles and the radiator fan shroud.

MML lowers your needed pinion angle and raises the fan, so you'd have to raise the shroud.
tucked skid increases your needed pinion angle and lowers the fan, so you have to lower the shroud.
BL raises the shroud, so you'd to have to lower it.

If you do all three together, you can adjust your pinion and fan shroud one time and move on with your life. I did the BL and MML at once and then did the skid 4 months later.

 

[IPerkWVU]

Hey @MountaineerTom - I'm glad I found your thread because it sounds very similar to what I'm considering. Currently my LJ is on 33s with a trash spacer lift that the PO put on. When I go wheeling I have to take the front fender flares off so I don't rub, and I've bashed up my skid plate a good bit. I want to do the OME 2" lift (leaning towards HD springs), and I'm looking at the kit from DPG Offroad that comes with Tier 3 Core 4x4 adj control arms because if I can swing that all at once it saves several hundred dollars. Since the DPG kits all come with 1.25" BL and 1"MML, I figured I'd also plan to do a tummy tuck. I'm looking at the UCF steel skids because the Barnes skid only gives you +1", and I'm debating between the 3/16" and 1/4" steel because the aluminum is so much more expensive. Anyway, I'm curious if you have any updates yet, or if you know of something I haven't thought of with the combination of mods I'm considering.

FWIW I pieced togeather something similar, have the OME HD kit, JKS BL and UCF extra clearance steel skid (3/16 I think). I needed adjustable upper rear control arms, a savvy t case shifter, a MML to make the skid work. It is a great mod.

If I were to do it over again, I’d get double adjustable upper rear control arms instead of Core4x4 (I’d suggest MC or Savvy), a Savvy 1.25BL (it’s aluminum, no compression issues), and go with Rancho 5000x shocks instead of the OME (they were pretty stiff).

 

[LincolnJr]

FWIW I pieced togeather something similar, have the OME HD kit, JKS BL and UCF extra clearance steel skid (3/16 I think). I needed adjustable upper rear control arms, a savvy t case shifter, a MML to make the skid work. It is a great mod.

If I were to do it over again, I’d get double adjustable upper rear control arms instead of Core4x4 (I’d suggest MC or Savvy), a Savvy 1.25BL (it’s aluminum, no compression issues), and go with Rancho 5000x shocks instead of the OME (they were pretty stiff).

Does double adjustable make it so you can adjust them without disconnecting? And what springs do you have with the Rancho shocks?

 

[IPerkWVU]

Does double adjustable make it so you can adjust them without disconnecting? And what springs do you have with the Rancho shocks?

Yes, it allows you to easily dial in your rear pinion angle without unbolting the arms. I forgot to mention that I also added a new driveshaft (have a rubicon so didn’t need to do a SYE)

Not sure on the exact OME part numbers, I have the OME HD kit (shocks included) that quadratec sells. I never replaced the shocks but have always found them to be stiffer than I’d like.