UCF transfer case skid upgrade

[josb612]

I didn't do it all at once either. It was a process that spanned at least a year and a half.

Same here

 

[IPerkWVU]

That’s the route I went on the TJR

Needed -

1.25 body lift
Savvy cable shifter
Rear upper control arms - I would recommend spending the money for double adjustable
Stock transfer case mount
Ucf extra clearance skid
Rear drive shaft

 

[pagrey]

have put a bend in the OEM one. There was a rock sticking up like a shark fin that I didn’t see. It’s the only time I’ve hit it like that. I’ve slid the skid a lot, and I’m sure the flat Barnes would be better at that than the OEM rippled one.

All the flat ones are better as far as sliding. My stock skid was toast every few seasons and I had to take it off and bend it back. When I did finally install the Barnes it wasn't a big change, I already had most of the tuck from damage. It's kinda what I was getting at, sounds like with a higher skid you'll be fine whatever route you take.

Getting control arms at your leisure in advance is such a good idea, the good ones come up for sale used, just keep a sharp eye.

 

[LONGJP2]

If you know it's in your future plans, then get the skid and you can always space it down.
My UCF extra is spaced down 1" right now till I get the time to mod all the little things.
I'm still running the stock drive shaft, but it's a Rubicon.

My stock skid was way more beat up than yours.

 

[Mike_H]

My process for the tuck was install a body lift with my first set of lift springs. Then I found some used Currie control arms that I rebuilt and installed. I was patient and found a used belly skid for about 1/2 off new. I bought that and sat on it until I felt comfortable buying the new driveshaft. Its a bit more assembly/disassembly, but spacing the spend out over time is definitely better in the Happy Wife, Happy Life category!

 

[MountaineerTom]

Thank you all for all the help and tips. I have a better understanding of it now and can form a better game plan.

 

[Irun]

Tom,

I ran the UCF Extra Clearance skid on my LJ for a brief period with no SYE. In my case I used washers and longer bolts to drop it down until I could afford a SYE, new driveshaft, and adjustable arms. It wasn't ideal, but once I got the other parts it was easy to move it back up.

It is important to note what @pagrey said, i.e. the UCF skids are not the same as a Savvy skid. The UCF is a steel skid design, built in aluminum. The Savvy is both designed and built with Aluminum in mind. The Savvy skid will give you the maximum clearance, aside from a custom flat belly skid, you can buy as a bolt on. However, installing one is not trivial and requires work to make it fit correctly. The UCF skid was fairly easy to install and required no custom work.

All that said, I ran the UCF extra clearance aluminum skid for almost 8 years on my LJ, with both 33" and 35" tires. It was one constant amongst a series of changes. I wheeled it on everything from East Coast Green to Red trails and it survived just fine. I wouldn't hesitate to do it again, but would recommend 3/8" vs the 1/4".

Bottom line, your ultimate tire choice and clearance needs should be considered. If your plan involves going to 33" tires in the future, the UCF 3/8" extra clearance skid will serve you fine in our area. Also, your thinking is solid, i.e. keep the weight down, and the 1" additional clearance available in the Extra Clearance skid does help with the breakover angle on the LJ.

 

[SvtLdr]

That’s the route I went on the TJR

Needed -

1.25 body lift
Savvy cable shifter
Rear upper control arms - I would recommend spending the money for double adjustable
Stock transfer case mount
Ucf extra clearance skid
Rear drive shaft

That's a solid list to start with. Keep these items in mind which may be necessary depending on the pinion angle you end up with.

Rear lower arms (adjustable)
Rear adjustable track bar
Angled track bar bracket
Lower shock mounts (depending on your shocks). Some folks get away with just trimming the coil buckets here.

 

[TRevs]

Thank you all for all the help and tips. I have a better understanding of it now and can form a better game plan.

This is a great thread; I’ve got the same question.

I replaced the PO lift last year with the OME. Stock driveshafts and control arms, LJ on 33’s.

I did the MML and BL at the time of the OME coils.

I had no vibes before or after changing the old lift for the new, and the old lift was actually higher than the new (2” Procomp springs with 2” spacers).

The fact that the Jeep was already at ~4” of lift when I bought it, and had no vibes, makes me think I could install the UCF Extra clearance skid and keep stock arms and DS, now that I’m down to 2.5” of spring lift.

I’ll expect a report when you have results of your experiment, @MountaineerTom !

 

[SvtLdr]

This is a great thread; I’ve got the same question.

I replaced the PO lift last year with the OME. Stock driveshafts and control arms, LJ on 33’s.

I did the MML and BL at the time of the OME coils.

I had no vibes before or after changing the old lift for the new, and the old lift was actually higher than the new (2” Procomp springs with 2” spacers).

The fact that the Jeep was already at ~4” of lift when I bought it, and had no vibes, makes me think I could install the UCF Extra clearance skid and keep stock arms and DS, now that I’m down to 2.5” of spring lift.

I’ll expect a report when you have results of your experiment, @MountaineerTom !

Yes, I'd say it's definitely worth trying. The fact that you were vibe free on 4" of lift without a MML, on stock arms is encouraging. You LJ guys don't know how good you have it!

 

[MountaineerTom]

Tom,

I ran the UCF Extra Clearance skid on my LJ for a brief period with no SYE. In my case I used washers and longer bolts to drop it down until I could afford a SYE, new driveshaft, and adjustable arms. It wasn't ideal, but once I got the other parts it was easy to move it back up.

It is important to note what @pagrey said, i.e. the UCF skids are not the same as a Savvy skid. The UCF is a steel skid design, built in aluminum. The Savvy is both designed and built with Aluminum in mind. The Savvy skid will give you the maximum clearance, aside from a custom flat belly skid, you can buy as a bolt on. However, installing one is not trivial and requires work to make it fit correctly. The UCF skid was fairly easy to install and required no custom work.

All that said, I ran the UCF extra clearance aluminum skid for almost 8 years on my LJ, with both 33" and 35" tires. It was one constant amongst a series of changes. I wheeled it on everything from East Coast Green to Red trails and it survived just fine. I wouldn't hesitate to do it again, but would recommend 3/8" vs the 1/4".

Bottom line, your ultimate tire choice and clearance needs should be considered. If your plan involves going to 33" tires in the future, the UCF 3/8" extra clearance skid will serve you fine in our area. Also, your thinking is solid, i.e. keep the weight down, and the 1" additional clearance available in the Extra Clearance skid does help with the breakover angle on the LJ.

I wondered if the 3/8” would be worth it over the 1/4”. Definitely a solid consideration. Thanks.

 

[MountaineerTom]

That's a solid list to start with. Keep these items in mind which may be necessary depending on the pinion angle you end up with.

Rear lower arms (adjustable)
Rear adjustable track bar
Angled track bar bracket
Lower shock mounts (depending on your shocks). Some folks get away with just trimming the coil buckets here.

I have all stock arms currently, but I do have a JKS adjustable track bar front and rear. I don’t have the angled bracket though. Currently running the Skyjacker Black Maxx shocks.

 

[MountaineerTom]

This is a great thread; I’ve got the same question.

I replaced the PO lift last year with the OME. Stock driveshafts and control arms, LJ on 33’s.

I did the MML and BL at the time of the OME coils.

I had no vibes before or after changing the old lift for the new, and the old lift was actually higher than the new (2” Procomp springs with 2” spacers).

The fact that the Jeep was already at ~4” of lift when I bought it, and had no vibes, makes me think I could install the UCF Extra clearance skid and keep stock arms and DS, now that I’m down to 2.5” of spring lift.

I’ll expect a report when you have results of your experiment, @MountaineerTom !

That sounds great. I’ll definitely report when I get any progress on this.

 

[IPerkWVU]

That's a solid list to start with. Keep these items in mind which may be necessary depending on the pinion angle you end up with.

Rear lower arms (adjustable)
Rear adjustable track bar
Angled track bar bracket
Lower shock mounts (depending on your shocks). Some folks get away with just trimming the coil buckets here.

Good call, on the TJ I did need the angled track bar bracket and trimming the coil bucket. I was running the OME HD lift (coils and springs) with stock control arms (other than adjustable upper rears) at the time.

 

[MountaineerTom]

Would I need the angled track bar bracket on an Unlimited with My JKS track bar?

What is the purpose of the angled bracket?

 

[Mike_H]

Would I need the angled track bar bracket on an Unlimited with My JKS track bar?

What is the purpose of the angled bracket?

when you start rotating the pinion up to be in line with the driveshaft, the trackbar goes out of alignment with its frame mount. Since you are trying to do this with out rotating the pinion (due to a DC driveshaft) you won't need the angled track bar bracket.

 

[MountaineerTom]

when you start rotating the pinion up to be in line with the driveshaft, the trackbar goes out of alignment with its frame mount. Since you are trying to do this with out rotating the pinion (due to a DC driveshaft) you won't need the angled track bar bracket.

Well, I’m not going to try the DC driveshaft initially.

If I were putting adjustable control arms on to rotate the pinion, that’s when I’d need the bracket?

 

[SvtLdr]

Well, I’m not going to try the DC driveshaft initially.

If I were putting adjustable control arms on to rotate the pinion, that’s when I’d need the bracket?

Most likely, yes. You can get away with some pinion angle adjustment but it doesn't take much and the track bar starts to bind. Another benefit to the angled bracket, it moves the track bar away from the gas tank. If you have a GTS you're probably already tight on space back there.

 

[Mike_H]

Well, I’m not going to try the DC driveshaft initially.

If I were putting adjustable control arms on to rotate the pinion, that’s when I’d need the bracket?

correct.

 

[LincolnJr]

Hey @MountaineerTom - I'm glad I found your thread because it sounds very similar to what I'm considering. Currently my LJ is on 33s with a trash spacer lift that the PO put on. When I go wheeling I have to take the front fender flares off so I don't rub, and I've bashed up my skid plate a good bit. I want to do the OME 2" lift (leaning towards HD springs), and I'm looking at the kit from DPG Offroad that comes with Tier 3 Core 4x4 adj control arms because if I can swing that all at once it saves several hundred dollars. Since the DPG kits all come with 1.25" BL and 1"MML, I figured I'd also plan to do a tummy tuck. I'm looking at the UCF steel skids because the Barnes skid only gives you +1", and I'm debating between the 3/16" and 1/4" steel because the aluminum is so much more expensive. Anyway, I'm curious if you have any updates yet, or if you know of something I haven't thought of with the combination of mods I'm considering.