Unicorn

DoOver

DoOver

TJ Enthusiast
Supporting Member
Joined
Jun 2, 2020
Messages
408
Location
So Cal
Hello,

New member, long time wheeler..

Thought it would be a good idea to document my build process as a place to store part numbers as it evolves and ask advice as I go.

Really fortunate to buy this well built Jeep. 2 weeks after I brought it home, I drove from South OC to the Rubicon, did the trail in one day, and drove home without a single problem.

Current specs:

Front Axle:
Dana 44 out of a F150 with 1983 K10 hub and brake conversion
Measures 67 inch hub to hub
Parts Mike tie rod ends (both are standard thread) (possible replacement part numbers ES2234R or ES2010R)
RCV axles
Warn locking hubs
ARB
4.56
5 by 5 1/2
Factory sway bar with disconnect


Rear Axle:
Rock Jock 60
Measures 65 inch hub to hub
4.56
ARB
5 by 5 1/2
Ford Explorer brakes
Currie Anti Rock sway bar

Suspension:
Custom 4 link rear, 3link front
King 2 1/2 coils with bypass

Steering:
PSC ram assist

Tires:
37 inch Goodyear MT/R
Mounted on Raceline Beadlocks. Rings are powder coated silver.

Poison Spider tire carrier with full size spare and beadlock

Ramsey 9500

Gen Right fenders and full body armor powder coated silver.
Poison Spyder hood powder coated silver.

New front driveshaft from Drivelines Incorporated with 1330 joints throughout.

Novak cable shifter for the transfer case.

ARB twin compressor. Plumbed to a 6 port 1/4 npt manifold. Manifold consists of 2 ARB solenoids, blow off switch and, air hose coupler. Braided stainless lines to both axles.

Replaced the factory switch panel below the radio with a custom fabricated piece and 6 switch panel with lighter, usb, and air pressure gauge.

Factory soft top and Best Top bikini top with Best Top wind screen

Replaced the factory speakers. Replaced factory sub with 6” kicker.
28D9CEFC-1DDB-411A-9EEC-6DCC5094EF00.jpeg
 
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taylormade73 said:
Welcome. Damn good looking LJ.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I’m a fan. Your build is looking good. I read your build thread, I mean, What did you do to your LJ thread:ROFLMAO:

Forgot to ask, where are you in Ohio? i was born and raised by Akron/Canton airport and graduated from OSU before moving to California.
 
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I would like to upgrade my skid plate. I like the Savvy option but, I do not want a body lift. Anyone successfully install it without a body lift?
 
I would like to change my spare tire carrier. The Poison Spider carrier is a pain to drop and pick up. I would prefer not to drill any more holes in the tub/armor. Needs to hold a 37 inch tire/wheel and a hi lift.
The only 2 that I can find meeting the requirements are from Rusty’s and Crawler Conceptz. Can’t find much info or reviews for either but, basic google searches yield negative comments about each company. Leaning towards the Crawler Conceptz but, interested to know if anyone has experience with either product or, another option that fits the criteria.

links:
http://crawlerconceptz.com/index.php/tj-body-mounted-tire-carrier.htmlhttps://www.rustysoffroad.com/rustys-tire-carrier-1997-2006-tj-lj-wrangler.html
 
I'm in the same boat. I need to get that spare off the door.

MORryde makes a reinforced hinge kit $360
https://www.retrofitoffroad.com/sho...-tj-wrangler-tailgate-reinforcement-jp54-022/
I'd like a recessed hitch for our Jeep too. So if I get the hitch and tire carrier I'm halfway to a full bumper kit.

I like the Poison Spyder Rock Brawler Bumper with swing tier carrier ($1250 unpainted)
and the Metal Cloak Crawler Bumper with tire carrier (that one might not be a direct fit) - ($1629 black powder)
 
Ordered a cargo basket from Moto built. They were great to work with. A rep called after I ordered it to tell me they would have to fab one up. Said they would discount it for the inconvenience. Went ahead with the order and it arrived today.

Well built and comes with all the hardware.

I wanted it to mount behind the rear seat while it was in place. Unfortunately, it’s too long.
Definitely my fault for not reading the description and measuring before I order.

Now, I have to decide what to do. The back seat rarely gets used (daughter rides in the front and my wife won’t go near the Jeep) but, it’s nice to have on the few occasions it gets used. Crazy as this sounds, I’m thinking about cutting 3 inches out of the middle and welding a piece of steel back in the bottom.

54150F1F-E2A9-48C4-BD6F-CAA8A589BCD5.jpeg


5647CAC8-F663-470D-9BBB-37D64D1BCE1D.jpeg
 
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Turned 73,000 miles this week while driving to pick up a mattress for my daughter. Rewarded with trouble code P0421. It was HOT! Middle of the afternoon pulling a big hill on the toll road with A/C on. I will try and reset the code bit, started researching catalytic converters. The only ones I can find on Amazon that CARB compliant are Magna Flow for $1,600. Not a fan of a loud exhaust nor a fan of that price relative to the other options. Anyone have a source for CARB compliant cats at a reasonable price and sound level?
 
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This is where you can find the approved options

https://ssl.arb.ca.gov/AftermarketParts/catalysts

A good muffler shop can order all three or any that have failed and weld them in. You probably only need one or both of the front cats which you might find for about $200 each these days. Catalytic converters will not really change the sound of the Jeep at all other than to eliminate a rattle if one is bad. Your muffler or any pipe after the rear cat doesn't have to be carb approved.
 
pagrey said:
This is where you can find the approved options

https://ssl.arb.ca.gov/AftermarketParts/catalysts

A good muffler shop can order all three or any that have failed and weld them in. You probably only need one or both of the front cats which you might find for about $200 each these days. Catalytic converters will not really change the sound of the Jeep at all other than to eliminate a rattle if one is bad. Your muffler or any pipe after the rear cat doesn't have to be carb approved.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the link. The Magna Flow is listed but, it’s the only one I can find.

I’m going to try a muffler shop. I HATE it when others work on my stuff. Especially when I can do it myself in a couple hours for under $400. Reason #1,323,001 to hate California.
 
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If the shop can't find an upper for you Walker 81815 will work. I think Rockauto has them for a bit over $200 but obviously try the shop first.
 
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