Unit bearing help (can't torque axle nut without bearing locking up)

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Today’s mission - replace axle u-joints, unit bearings and brake disks/pads. Front end was making grinding noise on sharp turns and braking while in 4H. 2H reduced that noise. Ordered a bunch of parts from Rockauto and went at it. Passenger side went fine (axle u-joint was cooked). No issues. Drivers side, I can’t torque the axle nut without the bearing locking up - it won’t turn. Got another unit from Napa, same deal. Try to torque it up and it locks. Put the old unit in and it’s fine. What the heck??!! Thoughts/ suggestions welcome.
 
Did you get Timken units? I replaced mine with Timkens and didn't have a single issue. Wondering what's different about the parts you bought
 
I used SKF. Not sure if that is the issue. Odd that 2 separate units did not work on the drivers side. Gonna look at the old unit part number tomorrow.
 
Same part number works fine on passenger side. Haven’t had the chance yet to check part number on the original.
 
Errors can happen in machining and or rebuilding from the mfg.

These aren't that fussy when it comes to tightening them. Yes there is a torque specification but I just mean it's not like 150 foot pounds they turn with ease then at 180 foot pounds they won't move.
That said put the old one and new on the bench and compare.
I'm thinking you're going to see something pretty damn obvious or you're not seating the axle far enough into the differential.

Something should jump out at you pretty quick as wrong here.
 
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Errors can happen in machining and or rebuilding from the mfg.

These aren't that fussy when it comes to tightening them. Yes there is a torque specification but I just mean it's not like 150 foot pounds they turn with ease then at 180 foot pounds they won't move.
That said put the old one and new on the bench and compare.
I'm thinking you're going to see something pretty damn obvious or you're not seating the axle far enough into the differential.

Something should jump out at you pretty quick as wrong here.
Finally was able to get back to the garage. Took the original unit bearing off (no visible manufacture markings). Put it side by side with the new SKF. Not seeing any measurable differences. Put the new unit bearing in, fully seated, applied minimum torque and it locked up. Going to see if any Timkin units are available.
 
Finally was able to get back to the garage. Took the original unit bearing off (no visible manufacture markings). Put it side by side with the new SKF. Not seeing any measurable differences. Put the new unit bearing in, fully seated, applied minimum torque and it locked up. Going to see if any Timkin units are available.
Carefully compare the back side that that stub flange bolts up to. I'll bet the outer part is machined too tall and it won't let the flange rotate correctly. That is the only part that makes sense unless the races for the bearings are fubar somehow.
 
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Carefully compare the back side that that stub flange bolts up to. I'll bet the outer part is machined too tall and it won't let the flange rotate correctly. That is the only part that makes sense unless the races for the bearings are fubar somehow.
Swapped out the Napa SKF at the store for a different one (same part #). Seems to be working fine. What are the odds of getting g a bad unit from Napa and Rockauto?? Third times a charm! Thanks for all of the help!
 
Finally was able to get back to the garage. Took the original unit bearing off (no visible manufacture markings). Put it side by side with the new SKF. Not seeing any measurable differences. Put the new unit bearing in, fully seated, applied minimum torque and it locked up. Going to see if any Timkin units are available.
What's the part number of the new unit? Not on the box but on the actual component.