Update, parasitic current fix, impending frame weld

wes11b10

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Supporting Member
Joined
Oct 20, 2020
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35
Location
Pittsburgh PA
Hey Y'all -
. It's been a minute since I've posted and I want to keep comms open. I recently successfully fixed my "newish battery dying every other day" issue. This made me happy, verifying all the cash I gave to ITT Tech was a good idea after all. Since I wanted to clean the terminals anyway, I decided to do the in-line/series test with my Fluke meter set to measure current. Sure enough, I had a 200mA parasitic draw. The culprit was the aftermarket DUAL radio which was installed by the previous owner. I guess there's a way to look for parasitics by measuring voltage drop across each fuse? This involves charts and graphs, chicken bones and voodoo - looked a little complicated. If anyone needs help running down an electrical problem like this, let me know.
I've been practicing on scrap with my Hobart 140 MIG machine so I'll be able to successfully replace a rotten section of my frame (rear lower control arm bracket). Welding isn't easy but I'm getting a little better every time. My biggest issue is seeing where the hell I'm laying my bead/keeping my bead straight. Even with the darkening turned to minimum on my crappy Harbor Freight hood, still can't seem to make a straight line. Keep practicing, I know. Oh, I wanted to attach a picture that proves you can indeed fix your TJ frame with tie wraps, hahaha! Not ready for the trails but good enough to get me back and forth to work. All the best, kids!

20211205_001900.jpg
 
That is an ACCIDENT waiting to happen.
Do you have you life insurance up to date ?
I would NOT drive the Jeep like that !!!!

You will not be able to weld that by attaching patches, but you probably can purchase Frame Safety Caps that should repair that problem.... They are available from Quadratec, Summit Racing and AutoRust to name just a few.

p-1256-131-R.jpg
 
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2 miles to work, back roads, it's the rear control arm. I'm the only one who's in it and I'm worth more dead that alive anyway so, meh, whatever happens. I have the repair section to weld in. And a welder. But I have to do it outside with the mud/ice/snow/nebshit neighbors. I'll post pictures when it's fixed. Appreciate the encouragement, fellas! Also, I wish I could just take this to "the guy who does all my work" to get it done. But that guy is me. I've been foolishly squandering my spare time on working overtime plus getting the full expert recommended 3 hours of sleep per night. But I'll get to it. Or die in a firey explosion on Peoples Plank Rd.
 
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2 miles to work, back roads, it's the rear control arm. I'm the only one who's in it and I'm worth more dead that alive anyway so, meh, whatever happens. I have the repair section to weld in. And a welder. But I have to do it outside with the mud/ice/snow/nebshit neighbors. I'll post pictures when it's fixed. Appreciate the encouragement, fellas! Also, I wish I could just take this to "the guy who does all my work" to get it done. But that guy is me. I've been foolishly squandering my spare time on working overtime plus getting the full expert recommended 3 hours of sleep per night. But I'll get to it. Or die in a firey explosion on Peoples Plank Rd.
I've seen a control arm bracket let go. It wasn't pretty.
 
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I guess nobody here works in technology? Fixed width font should not pose a problem for the average reader.
I spent 50 years in technology and still hated that typewriter font, I changed it back to something we can all read more easily.

And a Hobart 140 isn't up to frame repairs. I sold mine due to that problem and replaced it with a Miller 180.
 
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If he doubles up on the zip ties that thing will be good for atleast another 100k miles !!!!!! :ROFLMAO: of coarse thats if they dont rust !!!