Using a J-hook on the axle to secure a Jeep to a trailer

Irun said:
FWIW, the front axle isn't a problem with the 2" straps. The rear is the issue. There really isn't a good place on either side to use the straps without going over the hard brake. Technically, the rear passenger side can be made to work, but not the rear driver's side. At least I haven't found a spot to out the strap that I'm comfortable with. After looking closer, the J hooks wouldn't help me there. :(
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I've fixed more than a few brake lines from tow trucks tossing the J hooks over the rear axle.
 
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Irun said:
This is what I'm looking at next. That way I don't have to crawl under the jeep anymore!
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When you outboard your shocks, this is a pretty tolerable answer.
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bucky said:
You just need to cinch it down. These slots were made to tie down for transport. Never had a hook come loose in 30+ plus years hauling vehicles all over the country.
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Vehicle transport folks always say that. Almost none of them made a living transporting lifted rigs with highly flexible suspensions though. You'd have to suck it down to the bump stops to stop the bounce and slamming into the tie downs on the way back up. Slamming into the restraints is never a good thing.
 
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Irun said:
The issue I have is my trailer. It's aluminum and doesn't have the ability to tie down from the sides like the tire straps I'm seeing. I have to use the front and rear floor loops. :unsure:
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That’s the one drawback to Al trailers. I made these tie down brackets for one of my Kubota tractors due to lack of a place to tie it down. If the structure of your trailer allows you can bolt them on to it to allow for more tie down points. First thing I do with a new flatbed trailer is weld a shit load of tie down points. I have a 30’ enclosed car hauler that I use to haul my show truck and it has E-track running it’s entire length giving me many tie down options. The only issue with E-track is that it has a lower holding capacity than D-rings so I use extra straps.
My biggest fear when hauling a vehicle is not it bouncing but going into the back of my tow vehicle in the event of an accident or if I need to slam on the brakes.

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mrblaine said:
Vehicle transport folks always say that. Almost none of them made a living transporting lifted rigs with highly flexible suspensions though. You'd have to suck it down to the bump stops to stop the bounce and slamming into the tie downs on the way back up. Slamming into the restraints is never a good thing.
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I guess I’ve been lucky. But My jeeps only have 2.5” lifts and not the 4”+ lifts many of you have.
 
bucky said:
You just need to cinch it down. These slots were made to tie down for transport. Never had a hook come loose in 30+ plus years hauling vehicles all over the country.
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Too your point. Wheeled vehicles we would tie down at an angle due to the flex in the tyres. Tracked can be tied down straight down.
 
Irun said:
FWIW, the front axle isn't a problem with the 2" straps. The rear is the issue. There really isn't a good place on either side to use the straps without going over the hard brake. Technically, the rear passenger side can be made to work, but not the rear driver's side. At least I haven't found a spot to out the strap that I'm comfortable with. After looking closer, the J hooks wouldn't help me there. :(
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I personally use the 2” straps on my axles however I remade my rear hard lines so that it wouldn’t be an issue. But my best friend uses the straps and goes around the lower control arms just in front of the rear axle on both sides. I mean even if you are on the axle it’s pulling against those two bolts so I guess it’s all good. I’ve used the fleece covered wheel straps when pulling a nice Vette t even brand new covers it scuffed the wheels. So I don’t like them. On my Jeeps wheels I wouldn’t care but not if I had un rockrashed or painted wheels.
 
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Plumber1 said:
I really like the Mac's Straps, and they offer a ton of options

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How are you connecting to the rear axle? I have standard axle straps like the OP but have yet to try the LJ on the newly rebuilt trailer so was unaware of the brake line jeopardy. Will crawl around under there when it cools down.

Edit: Ordered these for the rear:
https://www.macscustomtiedowns.com/.../products/weld-on-axle-housing-bracket-472106
 
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My SxS was recommended in the manual to diff lock on a trailer for towing. Anyone doing that with a Jeep? Downside?
I have the DL switches modified so no need for low range or key on (just tested the front - no indicator light but wheels locked). Guess I could choose 4wd to tie it all together. Added stability or a strain on the diffs?
 
NOTNSUV said:
My SxS was recommended in the manual to diff lock on a trailer for towing. Anyone doing that with a Jeep? Downside?
I have the DL switches modified so no need for low range or key on (just tested the front - no indicator light but wheels locked). Guess I could choose 4wd to tie it all together. Added stability or a strain on the diffs?
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I always put mine in 4lo on the trailer. Easier more controlled loading. My front axle is an aussie so it does it's own thing.
 
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