My bad. I was reading the rear angle at 8.38 instead of 83.8. And yes, you want to shoot for the pinion angle to be roughly parallel to, but not higher than, the output for the 2-joint shaft.
Vibration Starting at 70 MPH After New Parts
- Thread starter MaximusLJR06
- Start date
It may be that your RE arms were able to dampen the vibration better than the Savvy arms since the Savvys have JJs on both ends and I believe the REs have a rubber bushing on one end. Could it be that the control arm joint change made a vibration that was already present more noticeable?
I know there is a thousand ways to approach your issue, and probably ten times as many opinions.
It’s your money and Jeep so you will need to decide what option you go with.
In MY opinion, when it comes to rebuilding vs replacing a drive shaft there is little difference in price and what I believe in value.
You can go to Adams web site and look at the 1310/1350 Heavy Duty shafts. They are balanced, all new joints, grease zerts, splined nice and deep and will be NEW for between $350-$450. In addition, if you call and tell them your wanting to replace an existing ADAMS shaft they may adjust the price. I know when I told them I was they took $50 off each front and back.
OP
I more than likely will be taking the Tom woods shaft off in the front and returning it. I’m currently making sure everything is adjust properly in the front it.
My jack is currently maxed out so I can’t get the spring cup completely to the bump stop on the passenger side but it appears like I have everything stalled properly on the front end to begin with.
Tomorrow I will reinstall everything on the front end and then mess with the driveshaft. Swap in my old Adam’s and if that doesn’t work then I’ll adjust the pinion higher and say fuck it to caster.
OP
OP
I contemplated the whole rebuild verse buy new already. I took my Adam’s shaft to a local shop Quigley 4x4 and they wanted approx $300 to rebuild and rebalance the Adam’s. I decided against it and went with Tom woods for a new shaft. Currently I’ve received 2 shafts from Tom’s but the second will be getting return now.
Side note, I could have Quigley 4x4 build me a new shaft and deal with a local shop. They specialize in 4x4 conversions for vans.
I'd go for the Quigley build. They are well known for both high quality and customer service. And, as you said, now dealing with a local business. But I'm thinking the control arm change could very well be the crux of the problem. That's why manufacturers use rubber for so many places that a poly bushing would last longer, and likely be cheaper too. Rubber isolates vibrations, squeaks, and (small) alignment issues from the driver. And going up to 75 mph in a TJ nice and smooth is a pretty impressive thing all on it's own. You could try reinstalling the lower control arms and see if you still get the same vibe. At this point you should be pretty proficient at changing things around under there.
Side note...stick a block of wood on top of your jack to gain some extra lift when you need it.
Side note...stick a block of wood on top of your jack to gain some extra lift when you need it.
Your front pinion needs to be 1* higher than the front DS angle. E.g. if pinion angle is 9*, DS should be 8*.
EDIT: there’s misinformation in this thread about the front pinion needing to be lower or the same as the DS. The 1* lower is for the rear pinion. THE FRONT IS OPPOSITE.
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I question why the front pinion should be anything other than zero degrees relative to the shaft. Vibration due to misaligned shafts usually occurs at speeds of 50 mph or greater. Is there anyone here that drives at those speeds in 4WD? When in 2WD there is no torque on the axle trying to twist the pinion down, hence you don’t need to have that 1 degree tilt up to cancel any twist. Yeah, in 4WD the axle will twist just like the rear axle but do you care at the speeds you will be going? In 2WD at speed the front pinion might even twist up a tiny amount due to bearing friction, brake, drag, etc., so having an extra degree in there will just make things worse.
This seems logical to me but maybe I am missing something. Anyone want to tell me why I am wrong?
OP
Update:
Got my jeep a back together this morning and adjusted the pinion angle to match the ds angle. Pinion may even be .2 higher and I still have vibrations going on.
I took the Tom Woods shaft off the axle yoke and spun it 180*, still have vibrations.
Currently I’m in the process of installing my old Adam’s off-road shaft to see what it feels like.
Got my jeep a back together this morning and adjusted the pinion angle to match the ds angle. Pinion may even be .2 higher and I still have vibrations going on.
I took the Tom Woods shaft off the axle yoke and spun it 180*, still have vibrations.
Currently I’m in the process of installing my old Adam’s off-road shaft to see what it feels like.
I can’t answer the “why?” Front pinion 1* higher than DS is just what @mrblaine recommends, unless I am mistaken and need to be corrected
OP
Another update: just went for a drive with no front driveshaft in and hit 85mph with not vibration and smooth as butter. There may have been a little droning sound but nothing like with the front shaft in.
Additionally the only thing I can find on the Tom Woods shaft that I question is the weight welding on to the shaft appears that one weld didn’t stick. I had this happen on the original Tom Woods shaft too
Installing the old Adam’s shaft now. Through some extra grease in the cv so hopefully that will work out.
Additionally the only thing I can find on the Tom Woods shaft that I question is the weight welding on to the shaft appears that one weld didn’t stick. I had this happen on the original Tom Woods shaft too
Installing the old Adam’s shaft now. Through some extra grease in the cv so hopefully that will work out.
OP
UPDATE!!!!!: VIBRATIONS are gone with old Adam’s Off-Road driveshaft installed! Hit 80mph with zero vibes just a little bit of a droning sound. @JMT @mrblaine @bobthetj03 @Jerry Bransford
I am going to have Quigley 4x4 rebuild the Adam’s shaft, will I need to have it rebalanced after that?
I am going to have Quigley 4x4 rebuild the Adam’s shaft, will I need to have it rebalanced after that?
Nice! So, I wonder what's the deal with the TW shaft? Not diss'n on them cause they put out a quality product, but I had a similar problem with their ds when I was trouble shooting my rear shaft.
OP
No idea. The only issue I could physically find on both the ones they sent me were the welds cracked off on one side of the weights they welded on. Maybe the weld not fully working allows the weight to shift at higher speeds? I am completely making that up cus I have no idea
I don't think you'll need to rebalance it, unless the vibes come back after.
OP
Can’t believe all that frustration was because of two bad driveshafts. I would have never guessed I’d get 2 bad ones from Tom Woods
All you can do is what you can do! As I said in my original post, I to have experienced BAD TW drive shafts.
The part that pissed me off the most was having to argue with them over the phone, send them back to only get a note saying, previous shaft was out of balance, new shaft replacement at no charge.
Didn’t even acknowledge the first shaft was paid for, stupid F$&?ers!
OP
Yeah, I never heard from them if the original shaft they sent was out of spec. Doubt I’ll hear from that after sending this one back too